~STOLEN~

so i bought this car with the intentions of putting a blower on it. purchased from a florida dealer about 2 months ago. so the title showed up yesterday and i contacted the prev. owner to get more details on the car.

current mods are as follows--

worked heads by AHP
milled .030
cam-660/660---236/256 111lsa
btr 660 springs <----dont ask me why they didnt go 680
fast 102
nw 102
lg carbon cai
lg super pro long tubes with orx and modded NPP catback
car made 583/550 @hpsales in FL


my problem consists with the compression. changing out the cam would not have been a big deal cause i could keep the springs and change pushrods and cam to resolve that problem.

but everything i read compression at 12-1 on this car would be a deal breaker with FI blower.

im am wonting to know if going blower at this compression @5-6lbs of boost with EITHER meth or e85 will be something that isnt pushing the ls7 limitations


SO
what do i do.
sell the top end and put factory heads, intake and TB on it

OR

sell the used blower kit i just picked up and stay NA until i can put together a working setup for a blower.

or take chances and put the blower on>?

thanks for the info in advance.

Unreal

Why not just add a 100 shot and call it a day? If you do blower I would swap the cam, swap the intake and Tb. Add e85/flex fuel for sure and keep power turned down to 625-650 range. lots of time and money to gain 50-100hp which the added 80-90lb offsets some. Or spend $1k on a nice n2o setup and enjoy.

~STOLEN~

thats another thing ive been debating, whether or not all this bolt on "stuff" is worth another 100 hp

this is the only time in history where finding out you having high compression sucks LOL

guess i jumped too soon on the blower. if i didnt already have it i wouldnt be so hesitant but damn i hate selling stuff.
ya know

Unreal

LT1s (c7s) have high compression and take boost fine, but their pistons aren't as fragile. With e85 you could swing it, but damn that is a lot of money for a little power gain. Then add the added cooling and other mods, and it starts becoming harder and harder sell.

~STOLEN~

a very good friend of mine is a very good tuner formerly of hennessey perf. and now SCT he told me the exact same thing, toditch the blower
102 plate kit with 100-150 shot and make more power with less problems and less supporting mods


so needless to say....its in the classifieds already LOL

neverstop

100 shot all day imo. with standalone if can swing it.

~STOLEN~

well whatever the blower sells for ill have to use for a clutch, tires and n2o kit


should be doable

LemansbluebyU

Well if you don't have any luck selling the blower and decide to keep it I have a brand new set of stock bore/stroke wiseco pistons for your LS7 that will lower your compression and are much stronger than the stockers .......just a thought.

Turbo-Geist

Is 5 to 6 psi with meth and 12:1 compression that big of a deal with an LS7? I would think you might easily see 750rw. It depends on how you want your extra 150HP. Do you want to be filling the bottle or have it available at all times from the blower?

LemansbluebyU

Not really IMO, the bottle is cheaper initially but it sucks when you run out and you will often!!! I'd stick with the blower personally and make that setup work.

Unreal

Heat issues, belt issues, etc etc also suck. Everyone I know locally with heads/cam/bottle is out loving their cars, racing, enjoying, and running great times. Blower cars are down far more often and spend $8-10k more just to get in the same ball park of reliability and that isn't even on a setup that has the compression bumped.

LemansbluebyU

I think alot of that has to do with how the car is set up and who does the work. I've had my A&A kit on for 4 seasons now, no heat issues what so ever but I am in the Midwest so consider that and the only problem I had was the a/c belt broke and took the s/c belt out with it.....not really a big deal so I upgraded to a green belt and it's been fine, that belt also had 2 years on it when it let go. I was at 6psi then now I'm at 8 with meth, the reliability is no less than it was stock and I'm at 750 rwhp. As with any combination the right tune makes all the difference in the world as to how the car is going to perform and how long it will last. Don't get me wrong I love nitrous, but for this car I'd much rather have a more permanent form of power

Turbo-Geist

He already owns the blower kit and only wants to run 5 to 6 psi. It should be right in the wheelhouse of a v3 Ti trim on a 427. Where does the extra 8 to $10k come in to play? 700 to 750rw on a C6Z should only require moderate fuel system upgrades and the clutch will be required whether he goes nitrous or SC. A 10# bottle will only be good for about 6 full pulls.

Tribaltalon

hmmm.. my 700rwhp blower car hasn't been down at all, and i've put well over 10k miles in just the last 6 months on this setup. I will say heat in the southern states can be a serious issue and I've got a DeWitt to combat that. I don't think Indiana sees anywhere near the temperatures that we see down here though. I made it through 100+ temperatures in Houston rush hour traffic so I'm happy. I've always had nitrous cars in my past, and this is the first time i've ever run a blower, and now i don't know that i'll ever go back to nitrous for anything other than a dedicated drag car. Personally I'd say just upgrade your internals with some quality reduced compression forged pistons and rods and then you can run that blower and turn it up without having to worry about motor strength. With a 150-200hp pill your nitrous bottle isn't going to last very long.. me on the other hand, I'll still be lining up and making passes. especially on the street.

~STOLEN~

Good info keep it coming guys lol

My head is about to explode with knowledge and decisions and holiday stress

LemansbluebyU

It is alot to take in, I do think ultimately you would be happier with the blower set up.....it's power all the time.

LemansbluebyU

Nitrous cars have their issues as well, they are not always consistent, you should check your filters every time you change out the bottle, once your addicted to it a 100 shot will not be enough you will want more and then you run I to the same issues with needing to upgrade your internals....

~STOLEN~

OK fellas, just got home and settled from work and have time to reply in length. i hate not being to type all this on my phone but its too busy at work


N E HOW

what i am going to do is hold off until after new years while taking in all the options/routes/problems/and what stuff costs in to account and make a decision from there.

i would really like to swap heads with someone and just change cams and install the kit BUT i also am gonna need a clutch before dyno, and tires immediatly after that in order to even enjoy the damn thing.

im getting some interest in the kit, but with the holidays around the corner i understand its a spur the moment type of sale.
just goes to show you that jumping on a good deal as soon as you see it isnt always a good deal

keep em coming guys
thanks

LemansbluebyU

First thing you need to do is determine what your horsepower goal is that your like to be at and how you plan on using the car. Take into account some factors that may or may not be important to you such as drivability, fuel milage, if you want to take road trips with this car, are you going to take it to the track and so on.....then you can tailor your build accordingly and ask the questions that will get you going the right direction. Lots of people including myself have opinions and not everyone's will be right for you. That's what you need to do first thing.

~STOLEN~

weather permitting weekend warrior man

my c5z was TOO much in the terms of comfort and drivability, this car is so much better now so i will go very light on suspension and as street friendly with the clutch as possible and still have the grab i need for the HP.

i hop in the car and tool around, go to dinner and still will expect to be running the AC in summer when its hot as hell around here.