newbC6

So, I have a 2006 C6 with 80k on the odometer and picked up a used A&A V3 kit from a forum member. I wanted to ask the eperts on some of the things I should go ahead and change out when I'm putting it on in the spring?


I'm thinking harmonic balancer would be the most important thing, anything else anyone would suggest ? I live in the South so I may be doing the Camaro Hood vent mod if the temps get a little to high.


Oh and anyone know a good tuner in OKC area?


Thanks

Unreal

Through cleaning of ac condensor/radiator.

Possibly a clutch.

schpenxel

I'd add racetronix harness while you're at it, along with all the stuff already mentioned. Clutch might hold up depending on how you drive it/how much power you end up with. Maybe. Maybe not

C6-Sage

I just bought an A&A kit too. I'll be doing an ATI balancer and pinning it.
I'm also going to weld an extra bung for a wideband sensor. I would suggest that as well.
Then I either want to get the dash commander or find a clean way to mount a widebanad gauge. You may also want to get HPtuners (even if somoene else tunes it, you can later datalog or make small changes)

Stuff that car needs but not necessarily because of blower:
Coolant flush.
Diff fluid.
Trans fluid (already done)

westtexasbuff

Wheel/tire combo to get it to put down the power.

neverstop

wideband is nice, I'd say get some R888 rear tires at a minimum if you aren't already rolling on something sticky.

cleaning the condensor is a good tip also and easy to do while you have the front of the car apart.

find a tuner who has tuned supercharged vettes before too.

BoosTTed C6

What those guys before me have said and, of course, a Driver mod....,

Don't do the Camaro insert. Use the ACS insert/vent that fits the ZR1 window. The Camaro scoop protrudes into the engine bay a little bit. The other is flush to the bottom.

One day, when I get my car back from the shop, I'll take photos.

Twayneo1

Well I recently did an A&A over the winter myself and removing the steering rack and balancer is something i found i only wanted to do once, especially since i had to do it by myself, and putting a steering rack in by yourself is cause for many choice words.

If you have any inkling about doing a cam, take my advice and spend the extra money to do it. I regret pulling my car apart and not doing it when had the chance.

My tuner highly recommended a cam and headers both of which i have not done, but eventually will. The other thing i would absolutely do is move the coolant lines to the passenger side of the car. Here is a link to the forum i made after doing my install you might find some of it helpful : https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-pictures.html

newbC6

Wide band I've debated. I probably should do it for peace of mind.

newbC6

awesome. Good tip for the coolant lines. I think I'll probably hold off on the cam. I.may do headers if I can grab some decent priced ones.

newbC6

pics would be great. I've looked at the zr1 insert but couldn't tell if it would work on a base. But.it does.look better than the camaro vent.

Definitely going to have to get used to the power. I will either going toyo or Nitto street/strip tires on the back so maybe it will hook ok. Not sure what to expect on it though. Shooting for a conservative 540whp so maybe those tires will be alright for street use.

neverstop

for a base kit you should not be having any cooling issues assuming tuner is good and everything is operating properly so I highly doubt you "need" that at all.
if you want to vent the hood though I strongly recommend the track spec setup. fit perfectly, amazing customer service and extremely high quality, looks way better than the other options at least in my opinion.
I've never used r888 but an nt05r should hook that up easily on the street in probably every gear.

Unreal

Hood vent should be a last ditch thing after every other cooling mod, or just done for looks. It barely does anything, so I wouldn't plan on doing it to address cooling issues.

CI GS

Add a BAP to your list, if your used kit doesn't come with any kind of fuel system upgrade already. The Racetronix harness is a no-brainer, as pointed out already, and makes the BAP a plug and play deal. With those two mods, you should have more than enough fueling then for the power level you're shooting for.
Since you're in the South, I would also suggest a 160* or 178* thermostat. That's the easiest, cheapest mod to lower your ECTs, along with tweaking your fan settings.
For a reasonably priced alternative to headers, you could consider either Z06 or ZR1 takeoff manifolds and matching X-pipe, which will be a lot better than the stock log-type manifolds, and even better if you can get the mufflers to go with it.
A good wide band, coupled with a Dashlogic module, is also a good add-on for any modified vette.

Pitufina

Dont forget fluids like ps, sc fluid and coolant if the lower rad line needs to be modded. I would change the valve springs and seals for peace of mind.

neverstop

truth.

zrracer

I do not think stock injectors with a bap are up to the job.
I would do headers,mid pipe and exhaust.
I would do a cai also.
Then do a tune.
Plus what CI GS said.

Have fun

Mike's LS3

It depends what your used A&A kit came with. A new complete A&A V3 Si kit comes with the CAI, BAP, intercooler, brackets, hoses, clamps, belt, BOV, S/C oil, bolts, radiator bracket spacers, correct fuel injectors and the optional Dewitts radiator for the Z51/GS.

Which fuel injectors came with the kit? #80's are used for manuals, #60's for autos.

At the time of Install of S/C:

1. ATI HB pinned.
2. DeWitts radiator recommended.

Before or after Install of S/C:

1. Possibly clutch, depending on rwhp.
2. Stickier tires/wider rims.
3. Headers or Z06/ZR1 exhaust to reduce higher EGT's (exhaust gas temps).
4. Z06 fuel pump when the oem pump goes out (80k current miles).

newbC6

Good list.
The used kit thankfully had 60lbs(A6) and a BAP . I'm thinking about getting them flow tested prior to install. Good tip on exhaust, I was trying to stay away from dropping 1k on headers so if those bolt up those should be cheaper?

The fuel pump does.worry me since it will be running with a BAP. Dang, horrsepower is not cheap

Mike's LS3

[QUOTE=newbC6;1593836854]Good list.
The used kit thankfully had 60lbs(A6) and a BAP . I'm thinking about getting them flow tested prior to install. Good tip on exhaust, I was trying to stay away from dropping 1k on headers so if those bolt up those should be cheaper?

The fuel pump does.worry me since it will be running with a BAP. Dang, horrsepower is not cheap:



About a month after the S/C install, my stock fuel pump went out. Heat destroys theses pumps. I was advised to keep a min. of 1/4 tank of gas when going into boost, otherwise you should be fine. Fuel aids in the cooling of the pump. Unfortunately, the advice came after my fuel pump went out. Once you get over the 650 rwhp range, there are better fuel systems to run along with Meth. See where this is going, "Dang, horsepower is not cheap"

I went with the full Z06 exhaust because I live in CA, headers will not pass our smog inspections. Since I have a manual the install was a complete bolt on. The axle back on auto's will need some bending, however you can retain your axle back mufflers and have a muffler shop run reducers on the mid pipe. The Z06/ZR1 exhaust is pretty damn good. No questions, headers will give you a little more power and more so in the mid range.

Today, I was reading the Northern CA regional forum, someone is selling the LS7 exhaust manifolds, cat down pipes, midpipe and 02 extensions for $350.00 plus shipping and paypal fees. Also, check C6 parts forum.

Get a good tune and enjoy!