6L80 C6 Base Model 800rwhp+ - Disuss
01-17-2017, 04:12 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
6L80 C6 Base Model 800rwhp+ - Disuss
I currently have a 2012 C6 LS3 with the mods below and am looking to go higher on the power. Right now I am making right under 700whp through a stock A6 but have the capability to go higher (remove remaining restrictor plate). We ran it on the dyno once before putting the plate back in (cut down) and it ran 787whp at 5K rpm when we let off. I want to completely remove the plate and have 780-800+.
I have had zero problems to date with about 3,000 miles on current setup, roll racing only. I know this is a beaten horse and i've seen discussions go both ways on this. Does anyone have a similar setup and what has your experience been? Am I risking damage to the engine internals or just the trans/converter?
ECS Novi 1500 kit
ID1000cc Injectors
Fore Triple Pump Fuel System
Aeromotive Fuel Rails
DSX e85 Flex Fuel Kit
BT Blower Cam
LG Super Pro Long Tube Headers (catless)
BB PRT Cat Backs
Discuss your thoughts - any input is appreciated
I have had zero problems to date with about 3,000 miles on current setup, roll racing only. I know this is a beaten horse and i've seen discussions go both ways on this. Does anyone have a similar setup and what has your experience been? Am I risking damage to the engine internals or just the trans/converter?
ECS Novi 1500 kit
ID1000cc Injectors
Fore Triple Pump Fuel System
Aeromotive Fuel Rails
DSX e85 Flex Fuel Kit
BT Blower Cam
LG Super Pro Long Tube Headers (catless)
BB PRT Cat Backs
Discuss your thoughts - any input is appreciated
01-17-2017, 09:29 PM
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
I'm good on studs, those have already been upgraded. I will look into doing the converter at the same time as pulling the remaining restrictor plate and retuning . Thanks for the input
01-17-2017, 09:46 PM
#6
Safety Car
Hell I push mine to more than that.
01-18-2017, 07:39 AM
#8
Safety Car
I'm a M6
01-18-2017, 08:32 AM
#9
Folks in the know on here will most likely suggest that you instal a meth kit on it, even if you're running E85, if you're pulling the restrictor.
If you're roll racing only, I wouldn't waste time adding a converter and add the heat stress to the trans. The majority of gains from a higher stall converter will be in 60' times from a standing start, so that doesn't help you. If you were drag racing, that would be a whole different ballgame. I would still put a good auxiliary cooler on it regardless.
I would suggest leaving the stock trans alone for now and observe how it shifts, sounds, etc. The jury is still out on what the stock trans can take with the right tune. Most failures seem to be due to either too much heat or a bad tune. Even the fully built ones fail with the wrong tune, since these trans are completely controlled by the TCM. It doesn't matter what clutches you have in there if the pressures and shift times, etc, are all off.
If you're roll racing only, I wouldn't waste time adding a converter and add the heat stress to the trans. The majority of gains from a higher stall converter will be in 60' times from a standing start, so that doesn't help you. If you were drag racing, that would be a whole different ballgame. I would still put a good auxiliary cooler on it regardless.
I would suggest leaving the stock trans alone for now and observe how it shifts, sounds, etc. The jury is still out on what the stock trans can take with the right tune. Most failures seem to be due to either too much heat or a bad tune. Even the fully built ones fail with the wrong tune, since these trans are completely controlled by the TCM. It doesn't matter what clutches you have in there if the pressures and shift times, etc, are all off.
The following users liked this post:
slingct3lt (01-24-2017)
01-18-2017, 11:27 AM
#10
I'd go for a built 6L80 and 2800 stall.
01-24-2017, 08:53 AM
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
Folks in the know on here will most likely suggest that you instal a meth kit on it, even if you're running E85, if you're pulling the restrictor.
If you're roll racing only, I wouldn't waste time adding a converter and add the heat stress to the trans. The majority of gains from a higher stall converter will be in 60' times from a standing start, so that doesn't help you. If you were drag racing, that would be a whole different ballgame. I would still put a good auxiliary cooler on it regardless.
I would suggest leaving the stock trans alone for now and observe how it shifts, sounds, etc. The jury is still out on what the stock trans can take with the right tune. Most failures seem to be due to either too much heat or a bad tune. Even the fully built ones fail with the wrong tune, since these trans are completely controlled by the TCM. It doesn't matter what clutches you have in there if the pressures and shift times, etc, are all off.
If you're roll racing only, I wouldn't waste time adding a converter and add the heat stress to the trans. The majority of gains from a higher stall converter will be in 60' times from a standing start, so that doesn't help you. If you were drag racing, that would be a whole different ballgame. I would still put a good auxiliary cooler on it regardless.
I would suggest leaving the stock trans alone for now and observe how it shifts, sounds, etc. The jury is still out on what the stock trans can take with the right tune. Most failures seem to be due to either too much heat or a bad tune. Even the fully built ones fail with the wrong tune, since these trans are completely controlled by the TCM. It doesn't matter what clutches you have in there if the pressures and shift times, etc, are all off.
Any suggestions on a good trans cooler?
01-24-2017, 09:43 AM
#12
I'm using a simple Hayden #679 plate and fin cooler, which has GVW rating of 22,000 lbs, which is impressive for the physical size of the cooler: 11" x 11 1/2". And since it's only 3/4" thick, I've managed to sandwich it between my AC core and Dewitt's radiator, which was necessitated by me installing the HX for my Heartbeat blower setup in front of the AC core. Works perfectly for me, even with the 3600 stall FTI. The highest TFT I've seen is ~195* after a WOT blast, and it usually stays between 155-175* cruising and in traffic.
I've tried it in series with the radiator cooler, but I've found it works better just by itself.
I've tried it in series with the radiator cooler, but I've found it works better just by itself.
01-24-2017, 06:29 PM
#13
Folks in the know on here will most likely suggest that you instal a meth kit on it, even if you're running E85, if you're pulling the restrictor.
If you're roll racing only, I wouldn't waste time adding a converter and add the heat stress to the trans. The majority of gains from a higher stall converter will be in 60' times from a standing start, so that doesn't help you. If you were drag racing, that would be a whole different ballgame. I would still put a good auxiliary cooler on it regardless.
I would suggest leaving the stock trans alone for now and observe how it shifts, sounds, etc. The jury is still out on what the stock trans can take with the right tune. Most failures seem to be due to either too much heat or a bad tune. Even the fully built ones fail with the wrong tune, since these trans are completely controlled by the TCM. It doesn't matter what clutches you have in there if the pressures and shift times, etc, are all off.
If you're roll racing only, I wouldn't waste time adding a converter and add the heat stress to the trans. The majority of gains from a higher stall converter will be in 60' times from a standing start, so that doesn't help you. If you were drag racing, that would be a whole different ballgame. I would still put a good auxiliary cooler on it regardless.
I would suggest leaving the stock trans alone for now and observe how it shifts, sounds, etc. The jury is still out on what the stock trans can take with the right tune. Most failures seem to be due to either too much heat or a bad tune. Even the fully built ones fail with the wrong tune, since these trans are completely controlled by the TCM. It doesn't matter what clutches you have in there if the pressures and shift times, etc, are all off.
01-24-2017, 07:14 PM
#14
I don't see why the stock stall wouldnt handle that amount of power without slipping, since it will be tighter than anything from the aftermarket. No doubt it will stall a bit higher, like any converter will, the more power you put to it. Im also not sure what the stock stator and other internals will take, or whether it will "balloon" at that level of power, but I doubt it.
The point I was making is that a higher stall converter is designed to multiply torque to get a car moving from a standstill more than for a car that's already rolling. Of course, a good, higher stall, lighter weight converter with stronger internals would always be better, but it won't make as much of a difference if you're hitting it from a roll as opposed to launching from a standstill.
01-24-2017, 09:45 PM
#15
I don't see why the stock stall wouldnt handle that amount of power without slipping, since it will be tighter than anything from the aftermarket. No doubt it will stall a bit higher, like any converter will, the more power you put to it. Im also not sure what the stock stator and other internals will take, or whether it will "balloon" at that level of power, but I doubt it.
The point I was making is that a higher stall converter is designed to multiply torque to get a car moving from a standstill more than for a car that's already rolling. Of course, a good, higher stall, lighter weight converter with stronger internals would always be better, but it won't make as much of a difference if you're hitting it from a roll as opposed to launching from a standstill.
The point I was making is that a higher stall converter is designed to multiply torque to get a car moving from a standstill more than for a car that's already rolling. Of course, a good, higher stall, lighter weight converter with stronger internals would always be better, but it won't make as much of a difference if you're hitting it from a roll as opposed to launching from a standstill.
01-24-2017, 11:22 PM
#16
No worries. I don't think that you'll blow the stock converter up at that power level, but to be honest, I really feel that the stock converters in these A6 vettes are way too tight. I would put at least a 2800-3200 stall in it and add a good trans cooler to keep it cool. But, some folks don't like that sluggish feel that a looser converter has off the line, although after a while you get used to it. Your car will be a beast with 700whp and the right converter. There was a thread on here a while back with a cammed A6 LS3 car with an ECS kit that was making ~ 700whp, and knocking down mid-nines @ 142+mph with a 3600FTI converter.