Upgrade from 6 to 8 rib
#1
Upgrade from 6 to 8 rib
I just bought a ECS novi 1500 off the forum. Before I have it installed I was thinking of upgrading to an 8 rib system. Please feel free to give me your opinions. What does it cost and would this add labor from the shop to install over the base kit? Thanks
#2
Drifting
It may add some labor because you'll have to swap out pullies including the crank pulley. For a 1500, you will max out the blower before you need to go 8 rib. I would only do 8 rib or direct drive, if you plan to overspin the blower or move to a larger head unit.
#3
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St. Jude Donor '15
Not sure I'd bother if you're sticking with the 1500
#4
Team Owner
Crank pulley comes off either way to pin it. No extra labor there.
Could do 8 rib crank with 8 rib blower pulley, then just run a direct drive. So only extra labor would be direct drive install and cost of the crank damper.
Could do 8 rib crank with 8 rib blower pulley, then just run a direct drive. So only extra labor would be direct drive install and cost of the crank damper.
#5
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St. Jude Donor '15
I've never had to pull a pulley to pin it? Though you do have the crank bolt off at that point so it's not far from it
(I do like ATI's way of pinning the crank which does require it to be removed, bit just drilled into the crank/pulley from the front with it still on)
(I do like ATI's way of pinning the crank which does require it to be removed, bit just drilled into the crank/pulley from the front with it still on)
Last edited by schpenxel; 02-19-2017 at 09:10 PM.
#6
Team Owner
Brain fart.
Then again 99% of popping it off is the removing the bolt, past that its 5-10 minutes to pop off the pulley.
Then again 99% of popping it off is the removing the bolt, past that its 5-10 minutes to pop off the pulley.
#7
But there's that dang steering rack that you have to remove to pull the balancer, that you don't have to if you are just pinning the balancer. You can just jack the engine up a bit and drop the cradle down a bit to get the crank bolt out and drill and pin it.
But if it were me, I would pull that rack off and throw a nice 8-rib 8" IW balancer on it and use the very nice and easy IW 3 pin system, and be done with it, just in case I ever wanted to upgrade.
But I'm practically an expert at pulling the rack. I figured out a way to yank that sucker out of the car through the top, over the front left fender. Liked doing it so much that I did it twice in one week. Don't ask why. Just make sure that you put the crank seal in the right way round. You be quiet, schpenxel!
But if it were me, I would pull that rack off and throw a nice 8-rib 8" IW balancer on it and use the very nice and easy IW 3 pin system, and be done with it, just in case I ever wanted to upgrade.
But I'm practically an expert at pulling the rack. I figured out a way to yank that sucker out of the car through the top, over the front left fender. Liked doing it so much that I did it twice in one week. Don't ask why. Just make sure that you put the crank seal in the right way round. You be quiet, schpenxel!
Last edited by CI GS; 02-19-2017 at 10:32 PM.
#8
But there's that dang steering rack that you have to remove to pull the balancer, that you don't have to if you are just pinning the balancer. You can just jack the engine up a bit and drop the cradle down a bit to get the crank bolt out and drill and pin it.
But if it were me, I would pull that rack off and throw a nice 8-rib 8" IW balancer on it and use the very nice and easy IW 3 pin system, and be done with it, just in case I ever wanted to upgrade.
But I'm practically an expert at pulling the rack. I figured out a way to yank that sucker out of the car through the top, over the front left fender. Liked doing it so much that I did it twice in one week. Don't ask why. Just make sure that you put the crank seal in the right way round. You be quiet, schpenxel!
But if it were me, I would pull that rack off and throw a nice 8-rib 8" IW balancer on it and use the very nice and easy IW 3 pin system, and be done with it, just in case I ever wanted to upgrade.
But I'm practically an expert at pulling the rack. I figured out a way to yank that sucker out of the car through the top, over the front left fender. Liked doing it so much that I did it twice in one week. Don't ask why. Just make sure that you put the crank seal in the right way round. You be quiet, schpenxel!
#10
Drifting
I'm not sure what your goals are, but you can make excellent power on a 1500 with a six rib. I'm on a maxed out Ti trim with six rib. Then again, we all say we won't seek more power.
#11
#12
The great thing about the ATI is that you can buy all sorts of different outer shells to change the size and width of the pulley in the future.
#13
Team Owner
Same with IW.
I've always pulled rack to pin balancers, so the difference hasn't seemed much to me.
I've always pulled rack to pin balancers, so the difference hasn't seemed much to me.
#14
Drifting
A six rib can easily handle your power goals, but if you have an underdrive crank pulley, you might as well convert to eight ribs now. It will give you more options later.
#15
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St. Jude Donor '15
Should be able to run an 8 rib balancer and keep the 6 rib belt for now if you don't feel like swapping out the other pullies right now, then it'll be there if you ever need it.
#16
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Like others have said, the six rib would work fine for your power goals, but at least all the idlers are eight rib compatible right from the start with an ECS kit. GLWI
#17
#18
Pro
I've been running a 6 rib with flip drive, and a small blower pulley over spinning. I love the flip drive, and no voltage issues here since adding the c5 idler pulley to the AC.
I would recommend pinning the ATI the same way as stock, from the front. Not with the ATI pinning kit only. I have mine pinned with ATI pinning kit, plus using the front method.
The ATI pin is mostly just a locator, it does very little to keep the hub from spinning in the event the bolt loosens due to spinning. Seen it happen before, nothing left of the ATI pin at the very first sign of the hub trying to spin.
I would recommend pinning the ATI the same way as stock, from the front. Not with the ATI pinning kit only. I have mine pinned with ATI pinning kit, plus using the front method.
The ATI pin is mostly just a locator, it does very little to keep the hub from spinning in the event the bolt loosens due to spinning. Seen it happen before, nothing left of the ATI pin at the very first sign of the hub trying to spin.