heli-vette

First start I get a minor engine shake . I feel the M6 stick bump sideways every 2 - 3 seconds . Outside cold it surges at 800 - 1000 RPM sneaking out at 5 am to work . My buddy has a LS2 in his sand rail , he says that is normal .

I don't see any codes on a scan , runs fine never full throttle . I think I have original plugs and wires . I hate to throw parts at it , for a non problem .

Anyone have the same ?

tblu92

Well it sound like you have MODDED your engine from stock
Please list all your mods----Good news it is a tuning issue most likely
Also How does it run and start after it is up to temperature ???

heli-vette

Pretty much stock , with magna flow exhaust . Stock headers / Cat . Standard thermostat / operating temp . I use a can of injector cleaner every 2000 - 4000 miles . I use the diablo sport intune 1000 , either way it surges cold . Seems to run fine out on the highway , mileage seems a little less than others report . 99% of my driving is stop and go .

0JDP Tech

How many miles do you have? If you have original plugs and wires, its probably time to change them. Plugs are relatively cheap and somewhat easy to do, and cause many a misfire and rough idle when they are worn out.

Feel free to call, email, or PM us anytime with questions!
- Jeremy

heli-vette

Thanks . I have 52,000 on it , I,ll swap out wires and plugs see how that works .

0JDP Tech

Not too high of miles, although 10 years old. Your wires may still be ok, but for the price I'd change the plugs at least. Maybe have a set of wires on hand in case some break trying to get them off the plugs, which happens a bunch.

Feel free to call, email, or PM us anytime with questions!
- Jeremy

tblu92

Regardless of what plug manufacturers say----that they will last 100K miles---I would change them every 20-30K miles---In a perfect world maybe---But with todays cheap pumps gas they carbon up quickly---same for the wires---4-5 years change them
ALSO---Do you have an oiled cold air intake filter ? Very common issue is over oiling the filter and the oil will suck up at 1st onto your MAF sensor and burn the oil onto the fine wires---from then on it will never read correctly---I would take it off and clean it with TB cleaner or Brakeclean--- The issues you are experiencing can be MAF related --especially if your engine is basically stock----

heli-vette

Well , the new plugs are in the wires look OEM . The gaps on the 50K iridiums was the same as the new set , insulators had a light tan
paper bag color on all plugs . Hard to pull off pull connector clips , one pulled the clip and wire out some ,back together . Runs better now , a new set of wires will be here in a few days .

No oiled cotton air filters , I will clean the MAF when the wires get installed . I lost the dead cold start , surge in reverse . Still bogs when shifting
say a slow 1st gear engagement 1000 rpm dips to 700 Back to 1000 .

Feels like a vacuum leak , fuel pressure hicup , too little be found when warmed up . No hi idle or back fires ,,,, runs fine on or off the throttle .
Just low rpm / cold ..... minor .

tblu92

Well to help you understand how your ECM works----When the eng is dead cold it is running in "open loop " mode until the coolant reaches 140* before it switches to "closed loop" where the fueling is being controlled by your front 02's---After warmed the switch to closed loop is by a timer rather than temperature--The timer is usually 10-20 seconds
Sound like you have an open loop issue--Which is uncommon on a stockish engine---So I would look at the plus wires---MAF sensor--fuel filter--vacuum leak---any unmetered air pre MAF will cause it to surge in open loop-check the air pump inlet line
In open loop there is NO fuel correction as in closed loop--however only on modded engines is there ever a need to alter the OL fuel---

heli-vette

Thanks for the reply .....