EuroRod

Old motor:
LS2 (stock)
PS1 ProCharger
60 # Marren injectors
Performance Products Aluminum intake manifold
Dyno tuned 550 rwhp

New motor:
New LS2 block
Launati stroker (408 cid)
H beam rods
Wiseco 9.5 cr pistons
Launati link bar roller lifters
Comp Ultra roller rockers
Bullet blower cam
Melling oil pump
D-1 ProCharger
80# Marren injectors

Questions:
1). Once the engine is back in the car and during the break in period, I was thinking that I should stay with the 60# injectors and the current tune in the car.
2). Then once the engine has 400+ miles on it, change the oil to synthetic and take the car to my tuner where we will swap out to the 80#injectors and tune the car.

I think as long as I drive the car gently during the break in period, I won't do any damage due to a weak tune or lean injectors. I fear that if I installed the 80# injectors I might over-fuel the cylinders and wash them down, using the old tune.

Any comment, suggestions or experience appreciated.

dmoneychris

If it were the engine in my car, I would start w/Amsoil & stay w/Amsoil.
They have a break-in oil for the first 500-800 hundred miles, then I would change it out and use 0W-30 Signature Series.

(http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...-oil-(sae-30)/)
(http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=AZOQT-EA)



(edit)= I just re-read your comment, sorry, this comment ^^^ does not address your initial question about the tune & injectors.
As far as oil is concerned though, you can't go wrong w/the Amsoil Signature Series. If there break-in oil is anything like it, I'm sure it will do what it's designed to do.

realcanuk

None of this makes sense to me.

With all the changes you are making you need to have the car tuned right away. I would be surprised if it even runs decently without tuning.

The car needs a tune immediately, and the best break in you can do to seat the rings is to run it up on the dyno right away. This slow driving stuff to break it in is old school and not for performance builds.

We did a base tune, heat cycled the engine a few times for the valve springs and to check for leaks, etc. Then changed the oil again and hit the dyno immediately.

Break in for my 402 went as follows, as recommended by the builder. (top LS engine people). I used Joe Gibbs oils as it is my personal preference and the builder said it was fine to do so.
Below is from instructions right from builder. I removed the name because its not my place to share their stuff.

MUST have baseline tuneup before initial startup
XXXXXXX recommends not driving the vehicle until engine is properly dyno tuned
Make sure all fluids are topped off before initial startup
MUST use NONSYNTHETIC oil for first 1000 miles
Castroil GTX nonsynthetic 10W-30 Recommended
Change oil before dyno tuning
Change oil after first 500 miles
Change oil again after 1000 miles
After 1000 mile break-in is complete, full synthetic oil is permitted

I followed this and the engine has been great since.

zo6style

Speaking from expirience!
DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR BEFORE A BASE TUNE/SETUP BY YOUR TUNER!!! This is due to rich motor will wash the rings hence breakdown the oil which will prevent lubing and for sure a bearing damage or premature failure.
In fact, roller cams don't need breaking in....running on dyno it really all you need (I've installed 3 ls7 in my track car). You will get that advice from Joe Gibbs/Driven oil. I don't run synthetic oil for many reasons...run 10/40 and change often (after every track event or 2500 miles)
Here is my latest motor which is dyno pulled and build exactly as above.
All the best....

C6z06man

Just have your tuner give you a base map with rescaled injectors. Not hard to do and you'll be good to go. Just break it in and then tune it.

EuroRod

The car was already tuned when I had a stock LS2 with a PS1, pullied (8 psi) and 60# Marren injectors, hedders, and intake. It was making 550 rwhp.

My plan is to run the new motor with the 60# injectors for about 3-400 miles very easily.

Then, schedule the tuner, drive the car there, swap to the 80# Marrens, and dyno the car.

I really do not want to strap the car to the dyno with only a few miles on a new engine.

My tuner says there will be zero problems with this plan.

zo6style

Is the risk worth $500?
Would $500 to insure the new motor a wise investment?
Your call.....