Z06 dyno, lower than expected
#22
Drifting
Thread Starter
Car was tuned by EPS in Baton Rouge, LA. There are a couple dyno dynamics around. Car Toys is the shop i went to, just for 3 pulls on the dyno, didn't let them touch the tune.
#23
I would expect the car to make a lot more power as well. I plan on having my car tuned in the next month or so. Let me know if you're interested in getting your car tuned as well. There really isn't any reputable shops in Tulsa that I would recommend taking your car to. My car was tune since by a "reputable" tuner out of state and I wasn't impressed at all. JP out of Van Buren, AR may tune my car next. He's tuned a lot of fast cars in my area and seems pretty knowledgable.
#24
Racer
It looks like the lift numbers on the box are calculated for 1.7 rockers. If you calculate them for 1.8 rockers it is in line with the lift listed on BTR's website.
#25
Drifting
I use a dyno dynamics myself and these numbers are exactly where they should be given your setup.
For one the nt05r is the reason for the powerband falling off early. On these small roller dynos you need the hardest compound tire you can use. I see it all the time on these cars losing power and rpm on the rollers due to rolling resistance and traction loss due to tire temperature.
Fwiw I have a few C6Z06's making between 520-530hp on my DD that are running 9.70's to 10.0's depending on launch and traction...
For one the nt05r is the reason for the powerband falling off early. On these small roller dynos you need the hardest compound tire you can use. I see it all the time on these cars losing power and rpm on the rollers due to rolling resistance and traction loss due to tire temperature.
Fwiw I have a few C6Z06's making between 520-530hp on my DD that are running 9.70's to 10.0's depending on launch and traction...
I'm curious though, why did the privious owner install aftermarket heads and cam, replace the pistons etc with forged components, yet leave the bottom end stock? No offesne meant in the least my friend please, but that's like getting half a hard on, it's better than nothing but... Just a little more work and you could have something that would handle a TON of nitrous or boost, I mean God's own chariot kind of power man....
Also, why is your compression ratio so high at 12:1, was that by design, as that really puts a leash on your abilty to make power via forced induction, oe even a bit of spray, etc. At 12:1 you're begging for detonation. Even a bad tank of gas will roast your motor, no? Or did I miss something in your build? What Octane fuel are your putting in your baby?
Again, I DO NOT mean any offense, I'm just trying to understand your goals and how they relate to your build...
PEACE!!!!
Keith
#26
Drifting
Thread Starter
Agreed on the RWHP numbers, HP at the Crank will be a tiny bit closer to what you had originally expected... As others have said, it's just a tool, and your ET's at the 1/4 mile are what matters.
I'm curious though, why did the privious owner install aftermarket heads and cam, replace the pistons etc with forged components, yet leave the bottom end stock? No offesne meant in the least my friend please, but that's like getting half a hard on, it's better than nothing but... Just a little more work and you could have something that would handle a TON of nitrous or boost, I mean God's own chariot kind of power man....
Also, why is your compression ratio so high at 12:1, was that by design, as that really puts a leash on your abilty to make power via forced induction, oe even a bit of spray, etc. At 12:1 you're begging for detonation. Even a bad tank of gas will roast your motor, no? Or did I miss something in your build? What Octane fuel are your putting in your baby?
Again, I DO NOT mean any offense, I'm just trying to understand your goals and how they relate to your build...
PEACE!!!!
Keith
I'm curious though, why did the privious owner install aftermarket heads and cam, replace the pistons etc with forged components, yet leave the bottom end stock? No offesne meant in the least my friend please, but that's like getting half a hard on, it's better than nothing but... Just a little more work and you could have something that would handle a TON of nitrous or boost, I mean God's own chariot kind of power man....
Also, why is your compression ratio so high at 12:1, was that by design, as that really puts a leash on your abilty to make power via forced induction, oe even a bit of spray, etc. At 12:1 you're begging for detonation. Even a bad tank of gas will roast your motor, no? Or did I miss something in your build? What Octane fuel are your putting in your baby?
Again, I DO NOT mean any offense, I'm just trying to understand your goals and how they relate to your build...
PEACE!!!!
Keith
Currently running 91 pump gas as that is pretty much all that's available in Oklahoma, but may look at going e85.
Goal is 9.9 NA, though I'm unsure if it's even capable of that. I really don't want to turn this into a full drag car by having to go with full cage etc to meet sub 10.0 NHRA specs.
#27
Race Director
Member Since: May 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
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St. Jude Donor '15
The pistons are the weak link. The stock crank and rods will survive quite a bit of power IMO
Though I probably would have at least replaced the rods while I was at it..
Though I probably would have at least replaced the rods while I was at it..