L.A.P.D.

Dear C6 Manual Trans Owners,

Recently, we have been contacted by many forum members inquiring on C6 clutch bleeders. As you may or may not know, our C5 clutch bleeder line will NOT work on the C6. We just wanted to let you know that we will have our clutch bleeder line for the C6 out very shortly.

The C6 fitting at the slave side contains a very rare fitting that is not available anywhere and MUST be custom made. We are in the process of having them custom made in high quantities at this time and they should be very ready within the next few weeks.

If you are thinking of replacing the clutch on your C6, wait a little while longer for our C6 clutch bleeder. You'll be glad you did everytime you bleed your clutch fluid.

Thanks!

Shawn

The Clevite Kid

Thank you for stepping up to provide this product. Can you give us a preview of the probable installation instructions, or at least the high points and low points ?

Thanx.

SickRick

There's no high/low point. The simple fact is, to bleed the slave - you have to remove the headers, tunnel plate, and anything else in the way - as the fitting is on the top (drivers) side of where the torque tube joins the bell housing. There's no other way to reach the sucker. Couple that with the fact that the proximity of the headers to the line that goes between master/slave, and you get your clutch fluid cooked (reason why the fluid in the reservior is BLACK) to the point where you want to flush it on a regular basis.

While you could probably negotiate the installation of the bleeder with the torque tube installed (with alot of wriggling and likely a TON of cursing), it's much easier to do while it's OFF (ie: during a clutch and/or slave cylinder swap). BTW, if you're doing a clutch - DO THE SLAVE at the same time. Cheep preventative medicine. And if you're doing the clutch/slave DO install the bleeder extender.

I did a clutch & slave swap a few weeks ago, and I'm having problems with the new slave. We're going BACK IN to replace the slave AND master, but we're putting it off until we can find/make one of these bleeders.

So Shawn - WHEN are these going to be available?

Rick

L.A.P.D.

clevitekid,

We recommend installing our clutch bleeder when you are replacing the clutch. It is the easiest time to do it. It is a very difficult task to install the clutch bleeder with the torque tube still installed. Once you have the torque tube out, the install of the clutch bleeder is VERY simple and quick.

SickRick,

We are hoping to have them available within the next 2-3 weeks. I will post and let everyone know when they are in stock and ready to ship.

Thanks!

Shawn

Mr.Big

Great news Shawn... You guys ROCK!!!
Jeremy

L.A.P.D.

Mr.Big (Jeremy),

We are just doing what we can to make your lives easier when you have to bleed your clutches.

Thanks for the props!

Shawn

Brett Hunter

Any news on this? I will be changing my clutch this week and hope to install a bleeder at the same time.

L.A.P.D.

As of Friday, we still didn't have them in. We will post a new thread letting everyone know when they will start shipping out.

Thanks!

Shawn

Brett Hunter

Thanks. Could you also post a note in this thread? With so many threads I would hate to miss it.

Mr.Big

L.A.P.D.

No problem at all sir! Will do!

Thanks!

Shawn

C6RAPTOR

I needed one yesterday. My GM dealer is having a fit getting the air out after changeing my clutch & cylinders. How fast can you get me one????

SickRick

Define "soon" Shawn...

Over a month and it still ain't in...

I "prototyped" a clutch bleeder for myself, 1st pair of "1-offs" ran me about $100 each to make. If LAPD doesn't come with this kit soon, I may do a "limited run" of about 50 for forum members.

It's a relatively easy DIY (if you have a decent machinist around) that consists of the standard 90* AN-3 pipe fitting, 2' of stainless hose, straight AN-3 fitting and bleeder on the other end. The key part, is an AN-3/AN-3 bulkhead fitting, with the long end machined down to an 8mm/125 with a 30* bevel on the end to emulate the end of the stock bleeder screw.

The machinist @ Ferrea Racing is like a frikkin Xerox on a lathe - he duplicated the thing almost exactly. The only issue I see is the clearance of the 90* fitting with the tunnel wall. It's REAL CLOSE. If I do another run of these fittings, I'm going to have them cut off about 3/8-1/2" of the end of the fitting to help with the clearance. Dustin (my wrench at Horsepower Sales) says he doesn't see a problem with it breaking off.

If anyone has a machinist that can do this kind of work, look into an FBM2770 fitting
in stainless, and bring them the bleeder screw from a C6 slave to duplicate on the long end...

If there's enough interest, I may have a small run of these done for forum members. It would be the cost of the fitting + machining - probably run about $40 a unit. You supply your own hose & bleeder. Mine's installed and doesn't leak (which is a concern).

The other option would be to machine the end down, thread it 8mm/125, cut about 5/8" inch off, and use a crush washer to seal against the top of the slave (which would require sanding the top of the slave flush, where the fitting goes in).

I only WISH that someone would have produced one of these things for purchase already, but necessity is the mother of invention. I'll post a photo of the "kit" monday - I have a second made for ShilitJ and left it at horsepower sales...

Rick

Mr.Big

I need one very soon myself...
Jeremy

C6RAPTOR

Rick, Check with Swagelok fittings to see if the have this type of fitting.

http://www.swagelok.com/

SickRick

No one actually makes an 8mm/125 to AN-3 conversion fitting. The aeroquip FBM2770 seems to be the most common. Russell probably makes one too (though it looks like areoquip/eaton are the OEM's for all the 3rd party distros anyway).

This could be CNC'd quite easily if someone wants to bear the cost of initial design and programming. The main issue is that the OEM bleeder has a seat at the bottom of the slave-side fitting that seals the assembly. The CORRECT way of doing this, without requiring further mods (ie:sanding the top of the slave fitting to use a crush washer) would be to duplicate that fitting. As mentioned above, the complication is in the height of the fitting, and interference with the tunnel and the 90 degree bend pipe fitting.

Personally, I'm more interested in getting someone to "clone" the JL Stealthbox subwoofer enclosure for both sides of the trunk area...

Rick

C6RAPTOR

I am in the automation industry and have one vender that is going to give me a price for (50) fittings to your spec.

Can you sell (50)??

torquetube

What's the latest on the C6 remote clutch bleeder?

LAPD, is yours ready to go yet?

SickRick, can you post those photos of your "kit?"

theVcar

L.A.P.D
I don't need a clutch just yet, but do you recommend I get this bleeder? mn6 z51 06. I know we all drive a stick differently, but do you have any #'s on mileage of mn6 clutch? Partly aggressive most of the time
David

SickRick

To install the bleeder requires removal of the drivetrain. I supposed you could shove a 3 year old up there with a pipe wrench and MAYBE they'd be able to get it - but otherwise you need to remove the torque tube to get into the slave and swap the bleeders. While you're in there, you MIGHT AS WELL do the clutch - god knows you don't want to pay the 7-8 hours to R&R the drivetrain AGAIN down the road.

As far as I know, the prototype I made is the first of it's kind for the C6. Carolina Clutch has expressed an interest in seeing it also.

There are a some minor changes I need to make in the design. But I FINALLY got my car back yesterday (thank GOD - I was really losing my mind after 6 weeks of it being down) and the bleeder is functioning correctly (ie: it doesn't LEAK).

My local machine shop has expressed an interest in running this up on the CNC machine for small runs when I need them.

SHAWN: what's the story here? I don't really want to become a "forum vendor" but the community here REALLY NEEDS THIS PIECE. If yours is "vaporware", I'll go ahead and start making mine...

Rick