Double Thread: Bumper Removal & Z06 Muffler Parts Install
03-21-2007, 01:45 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Double Thread: Bumper Removal & Z06 Muffler Parts Install
I'm going to make this the official update thread so someone can sticky it when everything is completed. Should help you with either removing the rear bumper or installing the components necessary to make the Z06 muffler butterflies functional. I'll update this with more pics as I get more work done. Look for updates for all the correct parts and part numbers with pics for muffler install. I will update this thead as more is completed.
Part I: First with the bumper removal
Tools:
T15 torx
10mm socket wrench
8mm socket wrench
7mm socket wrench
flathead screwdriver
4 bandaids
beer
This is after everything is reassembled, but it serves as a starting point, too. I recommend making a check list of all the bolts to remove. Also, lay them out in their respective positions off to the side to make it easy when reinstalling.
Jack up and support the car. Remove the rear wheels and taillights. Lay out the tail lights from left to right. I noticed that they didn't fit well in the wrong hole. Use a T15 torx for each tail light screw. One per light.
Remove the two 3" long plastic screws that attach the cover to the foam bumper. These are located behind the license plate and have square heads, but you can use a flathead screwdriver to remove.
Remove 3 of the bolts on the back half of the fender liner. This will give you enough access to pull the liner out a little and reach the 3 lower nuts connecting the rear bumper to the quarter panel. There are 5 bolts total holding the bumper to each quarter panel along a black rail on each side. Use a 10mm socket wrench to remove the lowest bolt. The lowest is a nut/bolt combo and the second and third up are just nuts. The third is much higher than the first two (mid way up the quarter panel) so it takes a little more of a reach to get to.
Remove the 4th and 5th bolts easily through the outer tail light holes. They are very easy to see and are within 4" of each other. You can also see the side marker light that must be disconnected further below.
Using a 7mm socket, remove (8) hex head screws attaching the bumper to the car where it wraps under to the left and right of the mufflers. There are (4) screws per side. VERY IMPORTANT!!! Using a 10mm wrench with an elbow joint, remove the (2) bolts that hold the center of the bumper to the frame. The bolts are above the muffler tips and hold two metal L-brackets. There is a plastic washer between the L-bracket and the body so make sure not to lose this! Much easier to take these two bolts out rather than the two screws holding each L-bracket to the bumper.
DO NOT DRILL OUT THE RIVETS ON THE MANUAL TRUNK RELEASE LOCK!! Free the manual trunk release lock by disconnecting the cable from the inside. To do this, pop the trunk and pull the carpeting away from the lock mechanism. There are two plastic xmas tree pins holding the carpet down on each side of it. Though the picture is fuzzy, you will see where the cable end sits in a plastic u-shaped arm. Pull the arm to the passenger side of the car while sliding the cable end toward the driver's side and (with a little stretch) you will have enough to slide it out. Open the two metal "arms" hugging the excess cable and push the rubber grommet gently through the hole to the rear bumper.
With the T15, remove the (6) torx across the inside of the top of the bumper. You'll have to pop the hatch to do this. Don't worry, the bumper won't fall. It rests on a lip and you have to lift it off the lip to remove it.
As far as I can remember, these are the connectors which must be disconnected to remove the bumper. Note: the wiring harness does not have to be unclipped from the bumper. It all can go as one piece saving a lot of time reinstalling. To access these connections, you will have to lift the bumper off the top lip and hold it while disconnecting. I made this a little easier by resting it temporarily on the muffler tips.
-Disconnect the two side marker lights in each quarter panel. There is just enough flexibility/room to remove these without loosening the panel.
-Disconnect the reverse lights on the bottom corners of the bumper
-Disconnect the 3rd brake light (I don't remember if this is connected to the harness that spans the length of the bumper or not)
-Disconnect the main plug on the right side of the bumper. It is connected with a plastic hold down at the end of the ground strap inside the bumper. The ground strap is obvious so just follow it to the end until you see the connector. You can see the main plug on the right in this picture. It's coming through the rear with a thick rubber grommet to seal out moisture.
Total time with removal/install and addition of muffler parts + 2 trips to the store was 5 hours as a one-person job.
Z06 muffler parts and install to come later this week.
Part I: First with the bumper removal
Tools:
T15 torx
10mm socket wrench
8mm socket wrench
7mm socket wrench
flathead screwdriver
4 bandaids
beer
This is after everything is reassembled, but it serves as a starting point, too. I recommend making a check list of all the bolts to remove. Also, lay them out in their respective positions off to the side to make it easy when reinstalling.
Jack up and support the car. Remove the rear wheels and taillights. Lay out the tail lights from left to right. I noticed that they didn't fit well in the wrong hole. Use a T15 torx for each tail light screw. One per light.
Remove the two 3" long plastic screws that attach the cover to the foam bumper. These are located behind the license plate and have square heads, but you can use a flathead screwdriver to remove.
Remove 3 of the bolts on the back half of the fender liner. This will give you enough access to pull the liner out a little and reach the 3 lower nuts connecting the rear bumper to the quarter panel. There are 5 bolts total holding the bumper to each quarter panel along a black rail on each side. Use a 10mm socket wrench to remove the lowest bolt. The lowest is a nut/bolt combo and the second and third up are just nuts. The third is much higher than the first two (mid way up the quarter panel) so it takes a little more of a reach to get to.
Remove the 4th and 5th bolts easily through the outer tail light holes. They are very easy to see and are within 4" of each other. You can also see the side marker light that must be disconnected further below.
Using a 7mm socket, remove (8) hex head screws attaching the bumper to the car where it wraps under to the left and right of the mufflers. There are (4) screws per side. VERY IMPORTANT!!! Using a 10mm wrench with an elbow joint, remove the (2) bolts that hold the center of the bumper to the frame. The bolts are above the muffler tips and hold two metal L-brackets. There is a plastic washer between the L-bracket and the body so make sure not to lose this! Much easier to take these two bolts out rather than the two screws holding each L-bracket to the bumper.
DO NOT DRILL OUT THE RIVETS ON THE MANUAL TRUNK RELEASE LOCK!! Free the manual trunk release lock by disconnecting the cable from the inside. To do this, pop the trunk and pull the carpeting away from the lock mechanism. There are two plastic xmas tree pins holding the carpet down on each side of it. Though the picture is fuzzy, you will see where the cable end sits in a plastic u-shaped arm. Pull the arm to the passenger side of the car while sliding the cable end toward the driver's side and (with a little stretch) you will have enough to slide it out. Open the two metal "arms" hugging the excess cable and push the rubber grommet gently through the hole to the rear bumper.
With the T15, remove the (6) torx across the inside of the top of the bumper. You'll have to pop the hatch to do this. Don't worry, the bumper won't fall. It rests on a lip and you have to lift it off the lip to remove it.
As far as I can remember, these are the connectors which must be disconnected to remove the bumper. Note: the wiring harness does not have to be unclipped from the bumper. It all can go as one piece saving a lot of time reinstalling. To access these connections, you will have to lift the bumper off the top lip and hold it while disconnecting. I made this a little easier by resting it temporarily on the muffler tips.
-Disconnect the two side marker lights in each quarter panel. There is just enough flexibility/room to remove these without loosening the panel.
-Disconnect the reverse lights on the bottom corners of the bumper
-Disconnect the 3rd brake light (I don't remember if this is connected to the harness that spans the length of the bumper or not)
-Disconnect the main plug on the right side of the bumper. It is connected with a plastic hold down at the end of the ground strap inside the bumper. The ground strap is obvious so just follow it to the end until you see the connector. You can see the main plug on the right in this picture. It's coming through the rear with a thick rubber grommet to seal out moisture.
Total time with removal/install and addition of muffler parts + 2 trips to the store was 5 hours as a one-person job.
Z06 muffler parts and install to come later this week.
Last edited by codename Bil Doe; 03-21-2007 at 08:42 PM.
03-21-2007, 01:55 PM
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Burning Brakes
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Z06 Muffler Vacuum Parts
Part II: Z06 Muffler Vacuum Parts Install
All numbers in bold refer to their relative locations in the exploded view. Parts List:
p/n 15973049 - #20 -Vacuum tank. Vacuum reservoir to keep butterflies closed at high engine rpm.
p/n 15782803 - #13 -Vacuum hose. This hose line runs from the vacuum solenoid to the mufflers.
p/n 15782802 - #18/#19 -Vacuum solenoid. Comes as one piece with attached vacuum line.
p/n 89046833 - Connector for vacuum solenoid. Expensive but worth it for waterproof seal and cleanliness
p/n 15782801 - #9 -Vacuum Pipe. Good for it's proprietary connector to vaccum solenoid connection and to run 1/2 way up the center tunnel before splicing.
p/n 15237510 - F55 console switch.
p/n 88988116 - F55 female connector plug. Dealers don't have a picture of this plug, but it is the right one. if you don't want to buy it, you can cut the one out of your wiring harness that is already in your center console and not being used.
This includes all necessary connectors and wiring. Here is the install of the vacuum components behind the bumper. I will follow up with the switch wiring and running vacuum lines to the engine later on.
Because the C6 and Z06 are almost identical, all the parts are nearly plug-and-play and fit nicely. The Z06 mufflers use the same hangers as the stock C6 ones. Below you can see the vacuum line running from the butterfly actuators to the solenoid. If you look closely, you can see the vacuum reservoir tank mounted underneath on the right side.
Start by connecting the vacuum lines to the actuators. Because they are preformed, they will contour to the bumper and give you an idea of where to place the solenoid.
Here's a higher angle showing how the lines run to where the solenoid should be placed.
Next, connect the vacuum solenoid to the line coming from the mufflers. You will see a hole pre-drilled in the bumper which lines up with the mounting bracket for the solenoid. You can widen this hole slightly to use a #14 screw with washer and screw the solenoid firmly to the bumper.
Looking again at the full bumper picture, there are two wires higher up going through the trunk (the red on the left and the black on the right). Peal back the goo tape holding the black wire down and you will see a hole predrilled into the trunk area. With the carpet still pulled away (from the step above where you disconnected the trunk latch wire), put a new spool of 16G wire laying free in that space. Feed enough of the wire through the hole under the goo tape to reach the solenoid connector. Leave the rest of the spool in there. You will be eventually running this under the carpet to the passenger foot well.
Spool of wire can be left temporarily to the right of the trunk release (anywhere to the right of where I'm pointing).
Once the solenoid is mounted, insert its connector. Use the stud the ground strap behind it is bolted to as a ground. Splice the hot lead to the wire you fed through the hole in the trunk under the goo tape. The hot will be the top wire when the connector is inserted into the solenoid. Don't worry, it's also labeled with a "+" on the solenoid.
Once mounted, the solenoid will have a vacuum line that hangs down below the bumper. This splits into two lines, one with a green locking connector and one with a rubber end. Plug the vacuum reservoir tank into the rubber end and it will line itself up for where you should mount it. Mark and drill two holes on the underside of the body. The location is on the bottom of the right storage well if you were wondering where it lined up with trunk space.
A second shot of the vacuum reservoir tank and the green connector you will leave temporarily hanging. Later I will post how to run from this connector to the vacuum off the brake booster with the vacuum pipe p/n 15782801.
I'll take some pictures later and post on the switch wiring.
All numbers in bold refer to their relative locations in the exploded view. Parts List:
p/n 15973049 - #20 -Vacuum tank. Vacuum reservoir to keep butterflies closed at high engine rpm.
p/n 15782803 - #13 -Vacuum hose. This hose line runs from the vacuum solenoid to the mufflers.
p/n 15782802 - #18/#19 -Vacuum solenoid. Comes as one piece with attached vacuum line.
p/n 89046833 - Connector for vacuum solenoid. Expensive but worth it for waterproof seal and cleanliness
p/n 15782801 - #9 -Vacuum Pipe. Good for it's proprietary connector to vaccum solenoid connection and to run 1/2 way up the center tunnel before splicing.
p/n 15237510 - F55 console switch.
p/n 88988116 - F55 female connector plug. Dealers don't have a picture of this plug, but it is the right one. if you don't want to buy it, you can cut the one out of your wiring harness that is already in your center console and not being used.
This includes all necessary connectors and wiring. Here is the install of the vacuum components behind the bumper. I will follow up with the switch wiring and running vacuum lines to the engine later on.
Because the C6 and Z06 are almost identical, all the parts are nearly plug-and-play and fit nicely. The Z06 mufflers use the same hangers as the stock C6 ones. Below you can see the vacuum line running from the butterfly actuators to the solenoid. If you look closely, you can see the vacuum reservoir tank mounted underneath on the right side.
Start by connecting the vacuum lines to the actuators. Because they are preformed, they will contour to the bumper and give you an idea of where to place the solenoid.
Here's a higher angle showing how the lines run to where the solenoid should be placed.
Next, connect the vacuum solenoid to the line coming from the mufflers. You will see a hole pre-drilled in the bumper which lines up with the mounting bracket for the solenoid. You can widen this hole slightly to use a #14 screw with washer and screw the solenoid firmly to the bumper.
Looking again at the full bumper picture, there are two wires higher up going through the trunk (the red on the left and the black on the right). Peal back the goo tape holding the black wire down and you will see a hole predrilled into the trunk area. With the carpet still pulled away (from the step above where you disconnected the trunk latch wire), put a new spool of 16G wire laying free in that space. Feed enough of the wire through the hole under the goo tape to reach the solenoid connector. Leave the rest of the spool in there. You will be eventually running this under the carpet to the passenger foot well.
Spool of wire can be left temporarily to the right of the trunk release (anywhere to the right of where I'm pointing).
Once the solenoid is mounted, insert its connector. Use the stud the ground strap behind it is bolted to as a ground. Splice the hot lead to the wire you fed through the hole in the trunk under the goo tape. The hot will be the top wire when the connector is inserted into the solenoid. Don't worry, it's also labeled with a "+" on the solenoid.
Once mounted, the solenoid will have a vacuum line that hangs down below the bumper. This splits into two lines, one with a green locking connector and one with a rubber end. Plug the vacuum reservoir tank into the rubber end and it will line itself up for where you should mount it. Mark and drill two holes on the underside of the body. The location is on the bottom of the right storage well if you were wondering where it lined up with trunk space.
A second shot of the vacuum reservoir tank and the green connector you will leave temporarily hanging. Later I will post how to run from this connector to the vacuum off the brake booster with the vacuum pipe p/n 15782801.
I'll take some pictures later and post on the switch wiring.
Last edited by codename Bil Doe; 03-22-2007 at 08:37 PM.
03-22-2007, 12:50 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
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Thanks. I didn't want to struggle with positioning so I decided before starting to disassemble. It was actually pretty straightforward, and the second time around I think the bumper removal would take under an hour and 1/2
04-19-2007, 01:22 AM
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I am looking to do this mod soon. Do any of you guys have a more detailed write up, parts list, or tips that you can email me? I want to make sure I have all of the parts on hand before I start. I will also be installing headers so will I just need aftermarket headers built for a ZO6 or do I need custom built ones for this application. You guys have been a great help and I look forward to the install.
04-19-2007, 02:41 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
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Read the whole thread. All parts are there and it can't get more detailed. I haven't completed running the vacuum lines to the brake booster yet. I'll finish the wiring with pics probably within the next week or so.
This mod does not affect the headers. Get headers appropriate for your application (1-3/4" or 1-7/8" primaries). You will need a 3" xpipe and mid pipes to mate up with the 3" Z06 mufflers and pipes. Usually header sales include xpipe, etc.
This mod does not affect the headers. Get headers appropriate for your application (1-3/4" or 1-7/8" primaries). You will need a 3" xpipe and mid pipes to mate up with the 3" Z06 mufflers and pipes. Usually header sales include xpipe, etc.
04-19-2007, 02:50 PM
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Thanks, I did read the whole thread. I just wanted to check to see if any of you guys had more info than what was put on the thread. As far as headers go I am mostly concerned with the different lengths in the over axle pipe that everyone has mentioned. With the difference in lengths I am assuming that if I add headers, cats and X - pipe that I will need to get them for the ZO6 instead of the regular C6. Can anyone help confirm this?
Thanks
Thanks
04-19-2007, 05:02 PM
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Not meaning to hijack your thread because you are doing a great job. But I just installed a complete Z06 exhaust system into a customers C6 convertible. I didn't use any of the GM hose or valves. One because the there are two switching valves, one at the mufflers and another further up that vents the vacuum, both are controlled by the BCM.
I used a 12 volt 3 way solenoid valve and I ran 1/4" steel line from the front of the car to the mufflers. I ran the tubing above the tunnel plate on the drivers side of the and mounted the valve and the vacuum resorvoir on the drivers side as well. Instead of using their plastic tubing I ran thick wall silicone hose to each muffler actuator and to the control valve. I used the vacuum connector at the intake that was originally blocked off as the C6 normally does not use this port, the other option is to tee into the power brake booster vacuum line.
The cost of the parts I used to install the controls and vacuum resorvoir didn't exceed $45, its not as pretty as the stock GM Z parts but you can't see them anyway and it works just as good. I also added a manual switch in the console so that the driver can open the valves at will. Simple install and the only GM part needed was a vacuum resorvoir which incidentally is also available from NAPA via their Balkamp line.
I used a 12 volt 3 way solenoid valve and I ran 1/4" steel line from the front of the car to the mufflers. I ran the tubing above the tunnel plate on the drivers side of the and mounted the valve and the vacuum resorvoir on the drivers side as well. Instead of using their plastic tubing I ran thick wall silicone hose to each muffler actuator and to the control valve. I used the vacuum connector at the intake that was originally blocked off as the C6 normally does not use this port, the other option is to tee into the power brake booster vacuum line.
The cost of the parts I used to install the controls and vacuum resorvoir didn't exceed $45, its not as pretty as the stock GM Z parts but you can't see them anyway and it works just as good. I also added a manual switch in the console so that the driver can open the valves at will. Simple install and the only GM part needed was a vacuum resorvoir which incidentally is also available from NAPA via their Balkamp line.
04-26-2007, 09:14 PM
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Hey Bill! Any progress on the rest of the install? I have parts on order and hopefully will get to start with the install in the next week or so. I am really interested in how you are routing the vacumm line to the front of the car. BTW, are all of the other parts on the diagram not needed or will they not work for our application. I like the idea of using as much of the OEM setup as possible. Call me crazy.
04-26-2007, 09:32 PM
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St. Jude Donor '13
This thread is a great read!
Great Job!
Great Job!
Last edited by SunsetOrangeCreations; 05-21-2008 at 12:08 AM.
04-27-2007, 11:40 AM
#16
Burning Brakes
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Thanks to TJWong for an alternative method. I just chose to use all the Z06 parts because I knew they would fit well and they're "oem".
I've been busy prepping for autox and put it off for a bit; but, I'll try to get to the wiring part this weekend.
vlocty - the rest of the parts on the diagram are unnecessary. I'm using #9 tubing pretty much only for its end fitting. I'll be cutting it and splicing it to 5/16" aluminum tubing with a 5/16-5/16" compression fitting.
sunset - this won't be rpm controlled. Z06's use the ecu to control opening. This is either on/off depending on the the switch for your choice of quiet or loud. I'm using an F55 switch on the center console. You can also use the remote switch sold by one of the vendors.
I've been busy prepping for autox and put it off for a bit; but, I'll try to get to the wiring part this weekend.
vlocty - the rest of the parts on the diagram are unnecessary. I'm using #9 tubing pretty much only for its end fitting. I'll be cutting it and splicing it to 5/16" aluminum tubing with a 5/16-5/16" compression fitting.
sunset - this won't be rpm controlled. Z06's use the ecu to control opening. This is either on/off depending on the the switch for your choice of quiet or loud. I'm using an F55 switch on the center console. You can also use the remote switch sold by one of the vendors.
04-27-2007, 08:15 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
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'll be posting the info as soon as I hook up the vacuum. I'll be splicing into the brake booster vacuum line. Here is a preliminary parts list for vacuum setup that I'm using:
-5/16" alum fuel line attached to...
-#9 pipe, joined to the alum fuel line with...
- 5/16 x 5/16" brass compression fitting. On the brake booster end of the alum line, use a...
-5/16" compression to 3/8" barb (I'll have to check at home to see exactly what I used. I think there is an NPT female between the barb and the compression fitting). This is connected to the 3/8" barb on the tee...
-with 3/8" fuel line. The fuel line can double as wrap in 1" sections around the alum tubing so it doesn't clank around on the tunnel plate. The barb tee is...
-spliced into the vacuum line running to the brake booster. The hole out of the brake booster is 5/8", but the 90° adapter out of it has a 1/2" outlet. This is why you use the 1/2" tee as the vacuum line is 1/2" ID. Here is the nylon fitting I'm using:
http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/52...ee-190835.aspx
-
-5/16" alum fuel line attached to...
-#9 pipe, joined to the alum fuel line with...
- 5/16 x 5/16" brass compression fitting. On the brake booster end of the alum line, use a...
-5/16" compression to 3/8" barb (I'll have to check at home to see exactly what I used. I think there is an NPT female between the barb and the compression fitting). This is connected to the 3/8" barb on the tee...
-with 3/8" fuel line. The fuel line can double as wrap in 1" sections around the alum tubing so it doesn't clank around on the tunnel plate. The barb tee is...
-spliced into the vacuum line running to the brake booster. The hole out of the brake booster is 5/8", but the 90° adapter out of it has a 1/2" outlet. This is why you use the 1/2" tee as the vacuum line is 1/2" ID. Here is the nylon fitting I'm using:
http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/52...ee-190835.aspx
-
04-28-2007, 03:16 AM
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Thanks for the info on your plan to finish the install. I really appreciate you and the other members who have helped get this mod figured out. I am just going crazy waiting for the parts to arrive so I can start with assembly. Let us know how everything goes.
04-28-2007, 12:35 PM
#20
Part II: Z06 Muffler Vacuum Parts Install
All numbers in bold refer to their relative locations in the exploded view. Parts List:
p/n 15973049 - #20 -Vacuum tank. Vacuum reservoir to keep butterflies closed at high engine rpm.
p/n 15782803 - #13 -Vacuum hose. This hose line runs from the vacuum solenoid to the mufflers.
p/n 15782802 - #18/#19 -Vacuum solenoid. Comes as one piece with attached vacuum line.
p/n 89046833 - Connector for vacuum solenoid. Expensive but worth it for waterproof seal and cleanliness
p/n 15782801 - #9 -Vacuum Pipe. Good for it's proprietary connector to vaccum solenoid connection and to run 1/2 way up the center tunnel before splicing.
p/n 15237510 - F55 console switch.
p/n 88988116 - F55 female connector plug. Dealers don't have a picture of this plug, but it is the right one. if you don't want to buy it, you can cut the one out of your wiring harness that is already in your center console and not being used.
This includes all necessary connectors and wiring. Here is the install of the vacuum components behind the bumper. I will follow up with the switch wiring and running vacuum lines to the engine later on.
Because the C6 and Z06 are almost identical, all the parts are nearly plug-and-play and fit nicely. The Z06 mufflers use the same hangers as the stock C6 ones. Below you can see the vacuum line running from the butterfly actuators to the solenoid. If you look closely, you can see the vacuum reservoir tank mounted underneath on the right side.
Start by connecting the vacuum lines to the actuators. Because they are preformed, they will contour to the bumper and give you an idea of where to place the solenoid.
Here's a higher angle showing how the lines run to where the solenoid should be placed.
Next, connect the vacuum solenoid to the line coming from the mufflers. You will see a hole pre-drilled in the bumper which lines up with the mounting bracket for the solenoid. You can widen this hole slightly to use a #14 screw with washer and screw the solenoid firmly to the bumper.
Looking again at the full bumper picture, there are two wires higher up going through the trunk (the red on the left and the black on the right). Peal back the goo tape holding the black wire down and you will see a hole predrilled into the trunk area. With the carpet still pulled away (from the step above where you disconnected the trunk latch wire), put a new spool of 16G wire laying free in that space. Feed enough of the wire through the hole under the goo tape to reach the solenoid connector. Leave the rest of the spool in there. You will be eventually running this under the carpet to the passenger foot well.
Spool of wire can be left temporarily to the right of the trunk release (anywhere to the right of where I'm pointing).
Once the solenoid is mounted, insert its connector. Use the stud the ground strap behind it is bolted to as a ground. Splice the hot lead to the wire you fed through the hole in the trunk under the goo tape. The hot will be the top wire when the connector is inserted into the solenoid. Don't worry, it's also labeled with a "+" on the solenoid.
Once mounted, the solenoid will have a vacuum line that hangs down below the bumper. This splits into two lines, one with a green locking connector and one with a rubber end. Plug the vacuum reservoir tank into the rubber end and it will line itself up for where you should mount it. Mark and drill two holes on the underside of the body. The location is on the bottom of the right storage well if you were wondering where it lined up with trunk space.
A second shot of the vacuum reservoir tank and the green connector you will leave temporarily hanging. Later I will post how to run from this connector to the vacuum off the brake booster with the vacuum pipe p/n 15782801.
I'll take some pictures later and post on the switch wiring.
All numbers in bold refer to their relative locations in the exploded view. Parts List:
p/n 15973049 - #20 -Vacuum tank. Vacuum reservoir to keep butterflies closed at high engine rpm.
p/n 15782803 - #13 -Vacuum hose. This hose line runs from the vacuum solenoid to the mufflers.
p/n 15782802 - #18/#19 -Vacuum solenoid. Comes as one piece with attached vacuum line.
p/n 89046833 - Connector for vacuum solenoid. Expensive but worth it for waterproof seal and cleanliness
p/n 15782801 - #9 -Vacuum Pipe. Good for it's proprietary connector to vaccum solenoid connection and to run 1/2 way up the center tunnel before splicing.
p/n 15237510 - F55 console switch.
p/n 88988116 - F55 female connector plug. Dealers don't have a picture of this plug, but it is the right one. if you don't want to buy it, you can cut the one out of your wiring harness that is already in your center console and not being used.
This includes all necessary connectors and wiring. Here is the install of the vacuum components behind the bumper. I will follow up with the switch wiring and running vacuum lines to the engine later on.
Because the C6 and Z06 are almost identical, all the parts are nearly plug-and-play and fit nicely. The Z06 mufflers use the same hangers as the stock C6 ones. Below you can see the vacuum line running from the butterfly actuators to the solenoid. If you look closely, you can see the vacuum reservoir tank mounted underneath on the right side.
Start by connecting the vacuum lines to the actuators. Because they are preformed, they will contour to the bumper and give you an idea of where to place the solenoid.
Here's a higher angle showing how the lines run to where the solenoid should be placed.
Next, connect the vacuum solenoid to the line coming from the mufflers. You will see a hole pre-drilled in the bumper which lines up with the mounting bracket for the solenoid. You can widen this hole slightly to use a #14 screw with washer and screw the solenoid firmly to the bumper.
Looking again at the full bumper picture, there are two wires higher up going through the trunk (the red on the left and the black on the right). Peal back the goo tape holding the black wire down and you will see a hole predrilled into the trunk area. With the carpet still pulled away (from the step above where you disconnected the trunk latch wire), put a new spool of 16G wire laying free in that space. Feed enough of the wire through the hole under the goo tape to reach the solenoid connector. Leave the rest of the spool in there. You will be eventually running this under the carpet to the passenger foot well.
Spool of wire can be left temporarily to the right of the trunk release (anywhere to the right of where I'm pointing).
Once the solenoid is mounted, insert its connector. Use the stud the ground strap behind it is bolted to as a ground. Splice the hot lead to the wire you fed through the hole in the trunk under the goo tape. The hot will be the top wire when the connector is inserted into the solenoid. Don't worry, it's also labeled with a "+" on the solenoid.
Once mounted, the solenoid will have a vacuum line that hangs down below the bumper. This splits into two lines, one with a green locking connector and one with a rubber end. Plug the vacuum reservoir tank into the rubber end and it will line itself up for where you should mount it. Mark and drill two holes on the underside of the body. The location is on the bottom of the right storage well if you were wondering where it lined up with trunk space.
A second shot of the vacuum reservoir tank and the green connector you will leave temporarily hanging. Later I will post how to run from this connector to the vacuum off the brake booster with the vacuum pipe p/n 15782801.
I'll take some pictures later and post on the switch wiring.