DIY Door Speaker Replacement w/PICS
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
DIY Door Speaker Replacement w/PICS
I know this subject has been discussed several times here, but I haven't seen a thread with pics, so thought I would post this for the faint of heart.
After some agonizing, I decided to replace the "upgraded" Bose 3.5" door speakers in my 05 Coupe. Based on some other forum member suggestions, I opted for Infinity 8233s (which have been discontinued, I think). I found a pair for about $27 shipped on eBay. After consulting all of the door panel removal posts, and getting the removal instructions with drawings from my friend Pat in Vegas, I finally screwed up my courage and attacked the install.
The first thing one must face is removing the door panel. Both sides essentially are removed the same way, the only difference being the location of attaching screws. Starting with the driver door, there is a small oval cover underneath the door handle.
Gently pry this cover off using a small flatblade screwdriver. It should pop off with ease. Once the cover is off, you will see two torx head screws that you will need to remove.
I think the size is around T35-40, neither of which I had. I did, however, find that a 5/16" long handled allen wrench would work on these, so that is the tool I used. Unscrew these and set aside.
The passenger side door is also secured by two torx screws - one located underneath the door release button (which can be pried off with a small flatblade screwdriver)
and the other is in a hole in the panel just below the door handle:
Next, locate the slot on the bottom of the door panel near the rear of the door.
Insert a large flatblade screwdriver and start prying the door panel off. You will think you are destroying the door, but this is normal. Continue around the door until you have popped all the nylon (?) retaining screws loose. Once these are all loose, lift the panel up and it should come off the door. The backside of the removed panel with the mounted speaker looks like this:
The back of the door with the panel off will look like this:
Next, you will want to unplug the door's wiring harness so you can put the panel on a bench or somewhere to do the speaker removal/replacement. Here is the harness connector.
Squeeze the two black plastic release pins and the pink connector handle will move up.
Once this pink handle is rotated back, you can disconnect the connector and the panel will be completely free from the door. I laid the panel with its inside face up on a table inside my garage for the speaker removal. The OEM speakers are held in place by four Phillips head screws.
Remove these screws, and then push down on the blue connector release pin to remove the wire connector. I used the OEM screws to secure the new Eclipse speakers. At this point, you will have to make a decision about how to connect the new speakers. I chose to cut the wires, then solder wires with standard speaker connectors on them to the old harness. I used shrink tubing to cover the solder joints and prevent shorting. I also wrapped the excess wire around the existing harness bundle to prevent them from getting caught on something inside the door panel. Note that on the driver's side, the light blue wire is ground: on the passenger side, the green wire is ground.
To replace the panel, first reconnect the wiring harness. Then start at the top of the door by lining the top of the door panel up with it's location on the door (you can see where the hangers have been if you look closely -then just match these together) inserting the metal panel hangers into the top of the door. Roll the windows down to make this easier. Push down slightly on the panel to lock the hangers in place. Once you've done this, make sure the plastic (or nylon) clips are started in their holes, and then start snapping them in all the way around the door by pressing inward on the side panel with the palm of your hand. Replace the srews and the oval cover or the door release button, make sure the windows operate okay, and then turn on your stereo and enjoy a little upgraded sound!
Total time for me was less than an hour, and the second door goes much faster. I'm contemplating whether or not to replace the rear speakers (others have convinced me replacing the door woofer-thingys is not productive) now that I have some new treble sounds in my car.
As always, I hope this helps some that are not sure about tackling this job, and that it isn't too elementary for you super wrenches and real audiophiles out there!
After some agonizing, I decided to replace the "upgraded" Bose 3.5" door speakers in my 05 Coupe. Based on some other forum member suggestions, I opted for Infinity 8233s (which have been discontinued, I think). I found a pair for about $27 shipped on eBay. After consulting all of the door panel removal posts, and getting the removal instructions with drawings from my friend Pat in Vegas, I finally screwed up my courage and attacked the install.
The first thing one must face is removing the door panel. Both sides essentially are removed the same way, the only difference being the location of attaching screws. Starting with the driver door, there is a small oval cover underneath the door handle.
Gently pry this cover off using a small flatblade screwdriver. It should pop off with ease. Once the cover is off, you will see two torx head screws that you will need to remove.
I think the size is around T35-40, neither of which I had. I did, however, find that a 5/16" long handled allen wrench would work on these, so that is the tool I used. Unscrew these and set aside.
The passenger side door is also secured by two torx screws - one located underneath the door release button (which can be pried off with a small flatblade screwdriver)
and the other is in a hole in the panel just below the door handle:
Next, locate the slot on the bottom of the door panel near the rear of the door.
Insert a large flatblade screwdriver and start prying the door panel off. You will think you are destroying the door, but this is normal. Continue around the door until you have popped all the nylon (?) retaining screws loose. Once these are all loose, lift the panel up and it should come off the door. The backside of the removed panel with the mounted speaker looks like this:
The back of the door with the panel off will look like this:
Next, you will want to unplug the door's wiring harness so you can put the panel on a bench or somewhere to do the speaker removal/replacement. Here is the harness connector.
Squeeze the two black plastic release pins and the pink connector handle will move up.
Once this pink handle is rotated back, you can disconnect the connector and the panel will be completely free from the door. I laid the panel with its inside face up on a table inside my garage for the speaker removal. The OEM speakers are held in place by four Phillips head screws.
Remove these screws, and then push down on the blue connector release pin to remove the wire connector. I used the OEM screws to secure the new Eclipse speakers. At this point, you will have to make a decision about how to connect the new speakers. I chose to cut the wires, then solder wires with standard speaker connectors on them to the old harness. I used shrink tubing to cover the solder joints and prevent shorting. I also wrapped the excess wire around the existing harness bundle to prevent them from getting caught on something inside the door panel. Note that on the driver's side, the light blue wire is ground: on the passenger side, the green wire is ground.
To replace the panel, first reconnect the wiring harness. Then start at the top of the door by lining the top of the door panel up with it's location on the door (you can see where the hangers have been if you look closely -then just match these together) inserting the metal panel hangers into the top of the door. Roll the windows down to make this easier. Push down slightly on the panel to lock the hangers in place. Once you've done this, make sure the plastic (or nylon) clips are started in their holes, and then start snapping them in all the way around the door by pressing inward on the side panel with the palm of your hand. Replace the srews and the oval cover or the door release button, make sure the windows operate okay, and then turn on your stereo and enjoy a little upgraded sound!
Total time for me was less than an hour, and the second door goes much faster. I'm contemplating whether or not to replace the rear speakers (others have convinced me replacing the door woofer-thingys is not productive) now that I have some new treble sounds in my car.
As always, I hope this helps some that are not sure about tackling this job, and that it isn't too elementary for you super wrenches and real audiophiles out there!
Last edited by fenderowner; 06-11-2007 at 03:00 PM.
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
Well, there is definitely a better hi frequency response, but I'm not sure that just replacing these speakers is enough to fully appreciate just how much better the system can sound in a C6 (others argue that one needs to change out the amplifier, too). Think I will replace the rear speakers at a later date. I still believe that at the price I paid for the speakers ($27 shipped) it was worth it. HTH.
#9
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Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: IN (may-oct) FL (oct-may)
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Just did the same (almost)
I just had both my door tweeters and the same type dash center speaker replaced with (now outdated) Eclipse SE8233 tweeters I got on Ebay for $17/pair, and there really is a noticable difference in fidelity! Total cost: $50 for 2 pair speakers shipped, and $50 for the install, totaling $100. (was too chicken to attempt the install myself).
As for the value of the OEM tweeters, I'd say they're worth more like 5 cents, not 5 dollars!
As for the value of the OEM tweeters, I'd say they're worth more like 5 cents, not 5 dollars!
#11
Team Owner
Good write up, thanks.
#12
Le Mans Master
Well done, especially good close-up pics.
There are tons of write-ups in the Audio/Electronics section and the C6 Audio FAQ is linked below in my sig.
Changes like this are extremely subjective. Honestly practically any speaker will sound better than the cheap paper Bose & Delco POS's that come stock, but whether or not the system on the whole sounds better afterwards is in the ear of the beholder. I did a complete system swap in my own car, but I helped a friend with a straight-up swap of Infinity for the Bose 3.5's. To my ear, adding real highs to the systems make the lack of midbass more apparent, but as always, YMMV.
There are tons of write-ups in the Audio/Electronics section and the C6 Audio FAQ is linked below in my sig.
Changes like this are extremely subjective. Honestly practically any speaker will sound better than the cheap paper Bose & Delco POS's that come stock, but whether or not the system on the whole sounds better afterwards is in the ear of the beholder. I did a complete system swap in my own car, but I helped a friend with a straight-up swap of Infinity for the Bose 3.5's. To my ear, adding real highs to the systems make the lack of midbass more apparent, but as always, YMMV.
#13
Team Owner
Can the 8" bass speakers be replaced too while you have the door apart doing the mid/tweeter 3.5" speakers????
What would fit?? Seems if you go to all this trouble you'd yank the entire assembly out and replace it. Does the HU send a FULL RANGE un-modified signal to the door speakers?? I'be been told over the years that the Bose HU sends a modified signal to each speaker.
Tom
What would fit?? Seems if you go to all this trouble you'd yank the entire assembly out and replace it. Does the HU send a FULL RANGE un-modified signal to the door speakers?? I'be been told over the years that the Bose HU sends a modified signal to each speaker.
Tom
#14
Melting Slicks
#15
Le Mans Master
Can the 8" bass speakers be replaced too while you have the door apart doing the mid/tweeter 3.5" speakers????
What would fit?? Seems if you go to all this trouble you'd yank the entire assembly out and replace it. Does the HU send a FULL RANGE un-modified signal to the door speakers?? I'be been told over the years that the Bose HU sends a modified signal to each speaker.
Tom
What would fit?? Seems if you go to all this trouble you'd yank the entire assembly out and replace it. Does the HU send a FULL RANGE un-modified signal to the door speakers?? I'be been told over the years that the Bose HU sends a modified signal to each speaker.
Tom
The non-Bose system is a regular 8" speaker and is driven by the same amp in the passenger footwell as the rest of the speakers. It too receives a crossed-over signal, and an amplified one to boot.
Direct replacement of speakers is only an option if you're content with marginal improvement. If you want significant improvement you have to go the full deal - amp, speakers and though you don't have to replace the factory head it makes sense to do so if you're gonna go that far(my next step).
#16
Team Owner
The Bose subwoofer is a 10" driver and is self-amplified so there's no simple direct replacing that one. It receives a crossed-over signal only, not full range.
The non-Bose system is a regular 8" speaker and is driven by the same amp in the passenger footwell as the rest of the speakers. It too receives a crossed-over signal, and an amplified one to boot.
Direct replacement of speakers is only an option if you're content with marginal improvement. If you want significant improvement you have to go the full deal - amp, speakers and though you don't have to replace the factory head it makes sense to do so if you're gonna go that far(my next step).
The non-Bose system is a regular 8" speaker and is driven by the same amp in the passenger footwell as the rest of the speakers. It too receives a crossed-over signal, and an amplified one to boot.
Direct replacement of speakers is only an option if you're content with marginal improvement. If you want significant improvement you have to go the full deal - amp, speakers and though you don't have to replace the factory head it makes sense to do so if you're gonna go that far(my next step).
Tom
#17
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Nov 2004
Location: North Carolina
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08
I have just purchased the Boston Acoustics 3.5 inch speakers and have replaced the center front speaker...just to see how it looks in there and to get the screw head sizes, etc. That went well and now with this post, I think I will try the doors. I am not sure my ears will notice much difference, but I CAN hear that the Bose stock speakers don't get it.
anothercrisis
anothercrisis
#18
Intermediate
I also wanted to publicly say thanks to Dan Coughlin for his help off forum and also to all the other folks who contributed in the various stereo system upgrade threads that helped make my swap a piece of cake.
Anyway, plenty of you already know the benefit of upgrading so I'll just add my voice to the group and say that it was definitely worth the (minimal) effort for the improvement. Its transformed the warbley mess that is the stock Bose "premium" system into something that I can at least live with.
#19
Intermediate
SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD
Oh yeah, meant to add that I've got one leftover, brand new Boston Acoustic S35 3-1/2" speaker for the center if anybody is interested. Its the same one shown here:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-BZpHEeV...065S35&g=51100 (regular price is $69.99 for the pair)
$30 plus shipping. Includes a correct GM wiring harness adapter (normally $10 a pair) for free.
SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD
Oh yeah, meant to add that I've got one leftover, brand new Boston Acoustic S35 3-1/2" speaker for the center if anybody is interested. Its the same one shown here:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-BZpHEeV...065S35&g=51100 (regular price is $69.99 for the pair)
$30 plus shipping. Includes a correct GM wiring harness adapter (normally $10 a pair) for free.
SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD - SOLD
Last edited by Ken Rahaim; 11-28-2007 at 09:31 AM.
#20
Speaker Upgrade
This thread is mainly about upgrading the speakers of the Optional Bose System. How about the standard system. What speakers have worked best for you guys?? Does the upgrade make a significant difference that can be heard by the average ear??
Thanks for this Forum.
Thanks for this Forum.