Vararam Install On A 2008 C6 Z51
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Vararam Install On A 2008 C6 Z51
Well I'd been sitting on a Vararam for nearly three weeks while I read and re-read the many posts on this and other forums concerning the Vararam's potential and its problems. I finally decided to pull the pin over the Memorial Day weekend after reading many posts that touted the Vararam's positive contribution to performance. I'd decided to tread lightly and to take my time with the install:
Of course I first realized that the enclosed instructions were quite unclear and at times simply muddied the waters. I also found that two washers for the MAF connection were missing, so do an inventory before beginning. I searched for other instructions, but found none that were specifically for the 08 Z51. I began with these and improvised as I went along:
http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_07.../photo_02.html
Removal of the stock airbox (below) from the 08 is pretty straightforward.
Make sure to really cover those front fenders with large soft towels when beginning the install. Carefully cut out the tenplate and make sure it sits all the way down on the very bottom edge of the plastic shroud. I used masking tape to hold the tenplate in place, then traced around it with a white Stabilo pencil. I then removed the tenplate and used a large metal Cookie tray to protect the condensor before I began cutting.
Understand that the tenplate will help place you in the ballpark, but a little more trimming will be necessary to get the Vararam to fit properly.
Just take your time and make sure you have a couple of sharp blades handy, as you may break one or two.
The next photo will give you an idea of the cut shroud, along with the
installed Z51 Cooler bracket.
I thoroughly cleaned and assembled the Vararam before installing it into the shroud. I gently bent the round brackets that hold the ball end of the rubber clamps with a needle-nose pliers, as the newer type of filter is fatter and caused the rubber clamps to overstretch and create a poor fit. They should compensate for this at the factory?
I immediately noticed that a little more cutting was in order after the first installation attempt. No big deal, just take your time and use plenty of light. When the shroud is finally cut for best fit, the Vararam should slip right into place once you negotiate the cooler bracket.
Now here is the BIG trick. After much trial and error, I have come up with the exact measurments that will provide a PERFECT fit.
The first Silicone Hose (closest to the throttlebody) is cut to 2 1/2 inches. The second hose, which connects onto the Vararam is 1 13/16 inches. Please note that I DID use the spacer with this install.
My wife showed me a clever way to cut the hose: Measure, mark and apply a rubberband to draw the final cut line.
Below is the final assembly. I put this together after the Vararam was set into place. I did not anchor the front of the Vararam until the very last step.
Be aware that the PCV line will no longer fit properly, so you will need to improvise; After noticing oil in the throttlebody with less than 300 miles on the car, I'd decided to go with a Cartek catch can.
Here is the final assembly. Notice how nicely the unit sits on the radiator bracket.
Also notice how nice the fit and finish is with the Vararam and the shroud. The secret here is Black duct tape, which I'd discovered in Wal-Mart.
So far the car runs smooth as silk and the temperature guage reads the same as when stock.
I hope this will help a few people out when they do the install. With this info, the job can be done in two hours. But why rush when you can take your time and make a fun project out of the installation.
Of course I first realized that the enclosed instructions were quite unclear and at times simply muddied the waters. I also found that two washers for the MAF connection were missing, so do an inventory before beginning. I searched for other instructions, but found none that were specifically for the 08 Z51. I began with these and improvised as I went along:
http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_07.../photo_02.html
Removal of the stock airbox (below) from the 08 is pretty straightforward.
Make sure to really cover those front fenders with large soft towels when beginning the install. Carefully cut out the tenplate and make sure it sits all the way down on the very bottom edge of the plastic shroud. I used masking tape to hold the tenplate in place, then traced around it with a white Stabilo pencil. I then removed the tenplate and used a large metal Cookie tray to protect the condensor before I began cutting.
Understand that the tenplate will help place you in the ballpark, but a little more trimming will be necessary to get the Vararam to fit properly.
Just take your time and make sure you have a couple of sharp blades handy, as you may break one or two.
The next photo will give you an idea of the cut shroud, along with the
installed Z51 Cooler bracket.
I thoroughly cleaned and assembled the Vararam before installing it into the shroud. I gently bent the round brackets that hold the ball end of the rubber clamps with a needle-nose pliers, as the newer type of filter is fatter and caused the rubber clamps to overstretch and create a poor fit. They should compensate for this at the factory?
I immediately noticed that a little more cutting was in order after the first installation attempt. No big deal, just take your time and use plenty of light. When the shroud is finally cut for best fit, the Vararam should slip right into place once you negotiate the cooler bracket.
Now here is the BIG trick. After much trial and error, I have come up with the exact measurments that will provide a PERFECT fit.
The first Silicone Hose (closest to the throttlebody) is cut to 2 1/2 inches. The second hose, which connects onto the Vararam is 1 13/16 inches. Please note that I DID use the spacer with this install.
My wife showed me a clever way to cut the hose: Measure, mark and apply a rubberband to draw the final cut line.
Below is the final assembly. I put this together after the Vararam was set into place. I did not anchor the front of the Vararam until the very last step.
Be aware that the PCV line will no longer fit properly, so you will need to improvise; After noticing oil in the throttlebody with less than 300 miles on the car, I'd decided to go with a Cartek catch can.
Here is the final assembly. Notice how nicely the unit sits on the radiator bracket.
Also notice how nice the fit and finish is with the Vararam and the shroud. The secret here is Black duct tape, which I'd discovered in Wal-Mart.
So far the car runs smooth as silk and the temperature guage reads the same as when stock.
I hope this will help a few people out when they do the install. With this info, the job can be done in two hours. But why rush when you can take your time and make a fun project out of the installation.
Last edited by PeterM; 06-28-2009 at 05:01 PM. Reason: add
#2
Burning Brakes
I may need to get some of that black duct tape. Looks really nice in the pics. My cut is not as nice as it should be.
#6
Safety Car
Nice write-up, many thanks you for posting it.
How about some pics of your oil/air separator please and what all it entailed to install, and some of the black duct taped area if you can please...
How about some pics of your oil/air separator please and what all it entailed to install, and some of the black duct taped area if you can please...
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Exactly right, as the duct tape leaves nothing to be seen. The shroud guard sort of finishes off the cut edges, but still leaves a lot to be desired. The duct tape enables a nice tight seal right up to theVararam unit itself. The tape really finishes off the entire project nicely, as there is no hint of any cutting to the shroud. I will take more pictures later today after the car show.
Last edited by PeterM; 06-01-2008 at 09:18 AM.
#8
Race Director
Exactly right, as the duct tape leaves nothing to be seen. The shroud guard sort of finishes off the cut edges, but still leaves a lot to be desired. The duct tape enables a nice tight seal right up to theVararam unit itself. The tape really finishes off the entire project nicely, as there is no hint of any cutting to the shroud. I will take more pictures later today after the car show.
#9
Banned Scam/Spammer
I just helped a friend install a Vararam on an 08 recently and am not sure why you found it necessary to cut the angled silicone tube. We installed the spacer and had good fit without cutting the angled red hose supplied in the kit. It appeared to need the angle to allow the MAF housing clearence over the top radiator shroud.
#10
Instructor
Nice install. I just got done installing my Callaway Honker yesterday. It was not as simple. They say a 2 hour install. It took me 6 hours. I had to take out the shroud to cut the template and rivid the frame to the shroud. Taking out that shroud sucks. You almost have to take out the entire front bumber to get in out. But I can say that the car is like night and day. I didn't think that a CAI could make that much of a difference. How much of a difference did your Vararam show you?
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I just helped a friend install a Vararam on an 08 recently and am not sure why you found it necessary to cut the angled silicone tube. We installed the spacer and had good fit without cutting the angled red hose supplied in the kit. It appeared to need the angle to allow the MAF housing clearence over the top radiator shroud.
#12
Burning Brakes
I just helped a friend install a Vararam on an 08 recently and am not sure why you found it necessary to cut the angled silicone tube. We installed the spacer and had good fit without cutting the angled red hose supplied in the kit. It appeared to need the angle to allow the MAF housing clearence over the top radiator shroud.
#13
Banned Scam/Spammer
Would cutting the angled piece give more hood clearence?
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The hood clearance is PERFECT the way mine is set up (I used the clay test to be sure). But as I noted, these specs are for an 08 C6 with the Z51 option. I mention this because I cannot be sure these specs will hold true with different models.
#15
I found the instructions about 50% useful. The template was undersize and more trimming was required. There was no mention of what to do with the rubber edging, but it was easy to figure out. The instructions also said to tighten the bolts on the red aluminum cross channel. It is adjustable... why tighten then install?? I had to pull the thing apart to re-adjust and re-tighten the hardware, a slight PIA when bending over the fenders. I also cut the angled hose for a better fit. I only modified the angle, and did not remove it completely.
I don't remember reading anything about using clay to check the clearance of the hood. In fact, my back and I were so happy it was installed I just closed the hood. If it is hitting, so be it. I just figured the designer would have taken into account that Corvettes have hoods that must close .
Either way, mine is installed. BTW, I don't notice any difference in the power. I did install it on my car when I only had 500 miles, so maybe it was because I was still in the break-in mode and not really running my car hard. If it is working now, then good for me. It does look cool, I"ll give em that.
EDIT: I just went out to the garage and noticed I did not modify the angled rubber piece. I didn't use it at all. Its still out there. My suggestion to Vararam if they should ever decide to spend a couple of dollars on good instructions is to show a exploded view of the assembly from the spacer to the filter.
Not a great pic, but here is how mine turned out. Correct? Who knows? Can't tell by the instructions.
I don't remember reading anything about using clay to check the clearance of the hood. In fact, my back and I were so happy it was installed I just closed the hood. If it is hitting, so be it. I just figured the designer would have taken into account that Corvettes have hoods that must close .
Either way, mine is installed. BTW, I don't notice any difference in the power. I did install it on my car when I only had 500 miles, so maybe it was because I was still in the break-in mode and not really running my car hard. If it is working now, then good for me. It does look cool, I"ll give em that.
EDIT: I just went out to the garage and noticed I did not modify the angled rubber piece. I didn't use it at all. Its still out there. My suggestion to Vararam if they should ever decide to spend a couple of dollars on good instructions is to show a exploded view of the assembly from the spacer to the filter.
Not a great pic, but here is how mine turned out. Correct? Who knows? Can't tell by the instructions.
Last edited by Whaler21; 06-01-2008 at 02:39 PM.
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The fit looks good. It seems your instincts voted against the angled piece as you were motivating along.
The original destructions do not mention the use of clay; I learned that trick back in the day from Jake the Flake.
I did notice a seat-of-the-pants difference, as is common with any mod that creates a 20+ HP gain. And Vararam states that it takes around 300 miles for the computer to get fully used to the Vararam.
Now if I wanted to break chops, I'd ask why the last clamp runs opposite of the three other clamps?
I can't help it, that is one of the traits of being a former Marine.
The original destructions do not mention the use of clay; I learned that trick back in the day from Jake the Flake.
I did notice a seat-of-the-pants difference, as is common with any mod that creates a 20+ HP gain. And Vararam states that it takes around 300 miles for the computer to get fully used to the Vararam.
Now if I wanted to break chops, I'd ask why the last clamp runs opposite of the three other clamps?
I can't help it, that is one of the traits of being a former Marine.
Last edited by PeterM; 06-01-2008 at 04:11 PM.
#18
The fit looks good. It seems your instincts voted against the angled piece as you were motivating along.
The original destructions do not mention the use of clay; I learned that trick back in the day from Jake the Flake.
I did notice a seat-of-the-pants difference, as is common with any mod that creates a 20+ HP gain. And Vararam states that it takes around 300 miles for the computer to get fully used to the Vararam.
Now if I wanted to break chops, I'd ask why the last clamp runs opposite of the three other clamps?
I can't help it, that is one of the traits of being a former Marine.
The original destructions do not mention the use of clay; I learned that trick back in the day from Jake the Flake.
I did notice a seat-of-the-pants difference, as is common with any mod that creates a 20+ HP gain. And Vararam states that it takes around 300 miles for the computer to get fully used to the Vararam.
Now if I wanted to break chops, I'd ask why the last clamp runs opposite of the three other clamps?
I can't help it, that is one of the traits of being a former Marine.
Here you go.
#20
Safety Car
How about some pics of your oil/air separator please and what all it entailed to install it please...
...and some pics of the black duct taped area please...
...and some pics of the black duct taped area please...