blackbird345

I'm looking at MT ET Street Radial II 28X11.50R17 vs the ET Street 26X11.5X17 anyone know which will hook better?

pmj341

you might post this in the drag racing section, you might get some good feedback!!

Warren262

I assume you mean the 295/45 17 radial? Depending on gearing, the radial could potentially hook better. But between any identical sized radial and bias-ply, the bias-ply should always hook better because of less rolling resistance and usually wrinklewall.

Pro Stock John

I think the taller sidewall 28" tire will hook better but it depends on the power level, how hard the car leaves, gearing, weight of the car, and other factors. If the car is mild then a 28" tall tire might cause it to bog, and it will run slower overall because the gearing will be cut down.

Joe_G

I've had both and I will NEVER run the bias plys again without skinny bias plys up front. Mixing radials up front and bias in back causes a wobbly feeling above 100 mph or so...you can drive through it but I always felt if I had to do an emergency move to avoid a competitor I would spin the car.

So plan to buy bias fronts if you get bias rears.

I have found better 60 fts with the radials too (though my driving is better), and they last a lot longer than the bias plys. Plus you can drive to the track on radials, and the shorter radial gives you a nice gearing advantage. I am consistently .2 better with the radials due to the gearing advantage on my car of the shorter tires.

chazc6

The bias-ply wrinkle wall should still hook better then the taller
28'' tire unless you try a wider 325/45-17'' M&H drag radial.

blackbird345

Ok well here is my situation, I have around 600 whp or more and my 60 ft is ok, around 1.67ish, but I spin right through 2nd gear which then causes me to go into 3rd at too low and rpm (4700). I have a Z51 with ECS SC running around 15 psi with water and meth. Car has unbelievable power but loses traction in 2nd. Maybe I should try QA1s before i change the tire....

Joe_G

what tires are you running?

Pro Stock John

600rwhp with a stick car? So trapping like 135mph?

I'm about to buy a C6, but I've been drag racing 4th gen 98-02 cars for 11 years. QA1 R front shocks are pretty nice. They keep the nose up and keep it from bouncing up and down. I'd do the shocks for sure, and if you are running 26's, see how it does. You might be spinning because the nose comes down on your shift and the rear comes up and the rear tires break loose. One way you can find out is by video taping the car or having a spotter.

I've gone 1.38 on 28x10.5 et drags, 1.35 on 325-50-15 mt dr's, 1.49 on 26" et streets, etc....

When the time comes I'll run 17 or 18" rims on back with 26-27" MT DR's, and then if I ever make 600rwhp or more, I'll do front QA1 R shocks and maybe do 28's if the car won't run consistent.

John

blackbird345

Yeah basically ppl watching are saying that the front drops so are you saying that the QA1s will prevent this? I'm running ET streets 26 inch right now but second gear is just useless....whats the part number for the QA1s? Or what do I ask for when I'm ordering them? Is it the coilover and shocks? How expensive are they?

Pro Stock John

I call them the QA1 R shocks, the front end stays up the front doesn't bounce up and down like the the old QA1 shocks from 5-6 years ago. I'm not sure the part numbers for a C6, but I'm sure some the big retailers on here are the go-to folks for that. They typically have 12 settings, from full soft to full hard. There is a little **** that you twist like a radio dial. You can try them at say 4/4 on the soft side, and then work your way to the softest setting you need. The better the track, the harder I can run them.