Ron R

Hey guys, when I press the button under the steering wheel to open the fuel door it opens after 1 or 2 presses, but the little plastic piece that holds it closed stays in the hole and never comes back out, making it impossible to shut the fuel door. If I open the trunk and push on the manual it pops back out fine.

Think it's just a lubrication issue (too stiff/something gummed it up?) or is there a problem with the electric switch or the latch itself? Just wanted to see if this was an issue anyone else had before I start troubleshooting further.

1988Bullitt

I just started having this problem too, it's like the return spring in the solenoid is stuck or broke and not moving the cable/pin back out so I have to do it manually. I will probably take mine apart this weekend and look at what I need to do to fix it. I will post pictures / info once I have something.

KevinZ51C6

It's called the fuel door actuator. You can try wd40/liquid wrench as a temporary fix, but you're eventually gonna need to replace it. I had the dealer put a new one in for $100. Problem free ever since.

kmthor00

Had the same issue on the 07', WD-40 did the trick!

1988Bullitt

Mines past the WD40, it won't return at all unless I move it manually, it's lost all "spring / return" action. Looks like a call to the parts deparment

LS WON

Had same issue with 2005. They replaced the whole cable assembly.
Also had the gas cap warning on DIC. Under warranty they replaced gas cap.

Ron R

Dang, looks like I'm not getting off easy on this one - WD40 was no help. New actuator it is... how do I swap this out, is it something I should attempt myself or have the dealer do it? I'm out of warranty.

*FAÇADE*

Attached is a DIY courtesy of CF member SilverDevil.

See below.

-------------------------------------------

You can purchase the Fuel Door Actuator
from Gene Culley (GMPartsHouse.com) at this link:

http://www.gmpartshouseusa.com/partl...layCatalogid=0





Hope this helps!

1988Bullitt

Cool, I ordered an actuator today $87 from the local dealer, I was planning on installing it this weekend and taking pictures, looks like someone beat me to it

30YR W8T

I had the same problem and WD-40 will work for a little while, but replacement is the best option. Make sure when you install to save yourself some trouble and remove the rear wheel well liner and carpet inside the hatch. Biggest problem I had was getting the cable through to the fuel door, other than that the install was not bad once I pulled the wheel well liner out.

1988Bullitt

Root cause for my sticking fuel actuator door pin is water intrusion into the pin housing that also houses the return spring. The water caused the spring to corrode and fail and no longer “spring” the pin back out to hold the door. The solenoid that pulls the cable back still functions correctly and the cheap fix would be to clean out the pin housing, replace the spring, put some grease in the housing and re-install it. Since I have already purchased the actuator assembly I will be installing a new one, but with a little cleaning and hunting for a replacement spring this would be a $2 fix. Hope this helps someone!

Old and New complete part


pin and spring up close




Once I find a spring I will clean out the debris a little more, grease the housing (to avoid water in the furture) and this will be as good as new!

HBK589

"This account is not valid." Thats not cool, I need to replace my actuator too. Are there any other 'how to' articals that anyone knows of?

Thanks,

Andy 53

I have read others saying that a ball point pen spring will serve as a replacement. I don't know that to be true...just what I have read. Others have said that the spring is normally damaged by water intrusion. Seems like a great place for a stainless steel spring!

Andy

HBK589

I'll be damned, it worked. Looks like an ok temporary fix till my new actuator shows up.

Andy 53

Glad that little tidbit helped!!

Andy

Mopar Jimmy

On my 2006 Z I am having the exact opposite problem. When I go to pop the button to open the fuel door it makes the clicking sound like it would if it was popping open, but it does not want to pop open and I have to mess around with for a minute or so pressing on the fuel door etc., to get it to open.

I hit it with WD 40 and even brought it in under warranty to my vette/chevy dealership and they lubed the cable and thought it was fixed but its not.

What is the permanent solution to get this fixed?

'VETTE PHASE

Replacement may be your best bet, but you can try lubing the piece that is mounted in the rear hatch area.

The piece on the far right of the picture is basically a cylinder with a strong magnet and a bullet shaped piece, about 1 1/2" long, that has the cable attached to the "nose" of it and a large spring behind it. When you hit the button it "turns the magnet on", which pulls the "bullet" back against the spring, towards the end where the electrical connection is. This, in turn, pulls the cable which is attached to the opposite end of the "bullet".

When you pull on the emergency cable, you are doing the same thing as the magnet does, pulling back on the "bullet" shaped piece. It sounds like you need a little lube in your cylinder.

AlexVette505

had the same problem on my 05. I am gonna try wd40 first and if that doesnt work then I'm going to replace it.

tripwrL68400hp

My 09 does not open at all when pressing the button. I don't even hear a click. I think mine is electrical. I heard that the harness connector under the console sometimes is not completetly connected. I guess I will be taking the console apart this weekend.

*FAÇADE*

SORRY! Problem fixed - check Post #8.

Good luck!