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Old 02-20-2010, 01:10 PM   #1
bwfredette
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Default Recomend 2005 performance upgrades?

Given 10k for parts and no labor cost, what would you recommend to do to a stock 2005.

A&A SC is about 5k and i thought about tubbing the rear end so I could put 12 inch wide wheels on her. I'm worried about the drive train (the A4 tranny, and rear diff) but then I think the timing chain and valve components are next in line to fail .

I was thinking the Eaton SC was a good option because I will not be going to the track. I want the car to sound awsome, do 0-60 as fast as posible and be a trust worthy driver.

Given the limitations of 10k how would you build her up? (I am all about buying used parts and doing the work myself.)


Thanks
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Old 02-20-2010, 01:44 PM   #2
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Instead of tubbing you can just get yourself some CCW wheels that mount Z06 size tires without having to do a widebody or tub. I have em on mine. A S/C in my opinion is the way to go. Bolt on a ton of HP without turning the car into a cammed shake rattle and roll ill tempered beast. Drives like stock till you want to unleash Mr. Hyde.

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Old 02-20-2010, 01:53 PM   #3
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widebody
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Old 02-20-2010, 02:15 PM   #4
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Thanks for the reply

I've a little understanding about the wheel options but not alot. What are the CCW wheels, what kind of offset, do they rub at all and does it blow the ABS out of whack.? Do you have a link I can check out the prices?

They look very nice with the drilled rotors on your ride..
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Old 02-20-2010, 02:24 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwfredette View Post
Thanks for the reply

I've a little understanding about the wheel options but not alot. What are the CCW wheels, what kind of offset, do they rub at all and does it blow the ABS out of whack.? Do you have a link I can check out the prices?

They look very nice with the drilled rotors on your ride..
No rubbing anywhere. I think that CCW is the only Company that makes a quality, forged, American made wheel with the proper offsets to do this. No issues with ABS because the tires mounted have the same diameter as stock, just wider. Check out the site and give em a call. They are super friendly and accomodating.
www.ccwheel.com
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Old 02-20-2010, 03:38 PM   #6
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I would suggest saving a little $$ for the diff.


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Old 02-20-2010, 04:09 PM   #7
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Default what is a good replacement for a 2005 diff that can take up to 1k RWHP

any ideas...
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Old 02-20-2010, 04:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
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any ideas...
That's easy. RPM Stage III or IV ZO6 diff.
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Old 02-20-2010, 06:00 PM   #9
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That's easy. RPM Stage III or IV ZO6 diff.
do they have that for the a4 trans
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Old 02-20-2010, 09:08 PM   #10
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do they have that for the a4 trans
uh oh! Looks like you caught me off guard. My guess is probably not.
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Old 02-20-2010, 10:11 PM   #11
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get the rear end built, buy a Z06 widebooty and a set of wheels with Z06 offsets in the rear and 345 nitto invo's, Z06 brakes, headers, catback and a cam. That should build you a well rounded car. After you save some more money get some pfadt suspension compnents and some coilovers. this is what I would do if starting from scratch, although a centri S/C kit like my procharger in my avatar is great, it will eat up about $7000 of your budget in one mod. do what you really want to do according to your goals. you will be happiest if you do what you want to do.

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Old 02-20-2010, 11:59 PM   #12
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RPM or DTE rear w/3.90, 3200 stall converter, long tubes, cai, ported fast 92, spin cam and trick flow heads and a good tune should have you at 10k if you do your own work.
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Old 02-21-2010, 12:53 AM   #13
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Default I'm listening...Got details?

BTW I'm a physicist so you can throw all the details at me that you want. I love to learn.

with the trick flow heads and cam how does the car run compared to a blower? Ive heard that the car will buck and feel rough on a slow trip through town. Is that the idea of the 3200 stall converter (to correct this situation)?
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Old 02-21-2010, 03:03 AM   #14
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a 3200 stall is a torque converter it just engages at 3200 rpm vs. 1800 rpm (don't know stock stall) when you mash the pedal to the floor. The point of this is to engage the tranny at a higher rpm for better acceleration. a heads, cam, stalled car is ideal for the drag strip. a big nasty cam is cool, it can give you some drivability problems depending on how big you go. that being said I daily drove a pretty big cam '04 GTO for a while and loved it, tuning can help alot with drivability. my procharged C6 drives and sounds like stock until I mash the gas it is nice sometimes but sometimes I want to have that big cam idle and car shake too. Are you looking to build a strip, street, or track car?
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Old 02-21-2010, 07:25 AM   #15
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Quote:
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uh oh! Looks like you caught me off guard. My guess is probably not.
sorry i wasnt trying to, i was really hoping they have it
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Old 02-21-2010, 09:08 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwfredette View Post
BTW I'm a physicist so you can throw all the details at me that you want. I love to learn.

with the trick flow heads and cam how does the car run compared to a blower? Ive heard that the car will buck and feel rough on a slow trip through town. Is that the idea of the 3200 stall converter (to correct this situation)?
With the correct cam choice (not too big), the car will sound great and make excellent power. It will also have good street manners. that's why I suggested one of Spinmonster's cams. You can get close to 500rwhp. Look up his threads and you will see some powerful streetable cams.
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Old 02-21-2010, 01:04 PM   #17
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Default Thanks for the ideas so far...

My goal is not a drag racer but a very street worthy car that I can drive all day; but I like the drag race sound so I don't have to explain how quick the car is, it'll speak for it self. I'd like to see ZR1 like numbers... I'm thinking the LS2 in the 2005 is a good candidate for this but all the experience and details I am missing. If you have time to share your personel experience join in.

1) Headers and high flow exaust are a given

2) I'd like to upgrade the rear diff.

3) If I go with TCWs for added tracktion how large can I go? Maybe it's cheeper to tub the car.

4) A blower kit

5) Should I bother with a blower cam, do I need it to get the sound and numbers I am looking for?

6) Do I get to a point with the blower cam added that I have opened a can of worms and need a new head, upgrade the push rods, and timing chain etc.
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Old 02-21-2010, 01:50 PM   #18
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Old 02-21-2010, 02:37 PM   #19
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Here is my opinion and the way I went on my car...

1. WCC lowering Bolts/Black ZR1 wheels in stock sizes
2. Corsa Sport Catback
3. K&N CAI (I also went MGW Shifter but mines a 6 speed)
4. 3200 stall convertor since your an auto and maybe some gears
5. Longtube headers & X Pipe (I prefer no cats but again my opinion)
6. A nice "healthy" cam and upgraded valvetrain along with a dyno tune. Throw in a 160 degree thermostat and an underdrive crank pulley while your at it.

This will put you right around your budget even having some of it installed and will run and sound like a monster to boot. I will say this, the wcc lowering bolts and ZR1 repro wheels were only a temporary fix until I got the rest of my mods out of the way. I will soon be upgrading to Pfadt coil overs and a set of probably 360 Forged Mesh 8's.
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Old 02-21-2010, 02:40 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwfredette View Post
5) Should I bother with a blower cam, do I need it to get the sound and numbers I am looking for?

6) Do I get to a point with the blower cam added that I have opened a can of worms and need a new head, upgrade the push rods, and timing chain etc.
Answers:

5. Yes, if for nothing else the sound your looking for but the numbers will be better too.

6. With any cam upgrade you are going to need to upgrade the valve train. Ie: Valvesprings, retainers, pushrods, and timing chain. The heads themselves can be left stock (unported/milled)
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Old 02-21-2010, 02:40 PM
 
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