LSCHLEM

My Brake fluid is pitch black. I wonder if I can do A ranger type extraction
with the turkey baster. Sounds funny but I dont know how it got so black.
That reservior is pretty big but the master Cyl and all the other brakes just
might be something I may do if there is a simple method. Help is welcome
Leon

Sparo2

The way I do it is take out as much fluid from the resorvior and put new fluid inside. I then bleed the brakes starting from the caliper farthest from the master cylinder which would be the psgr rear brakes. I bleed till it all comes out clear and then move onto the next one furthest from the master cylinder (drvr rear). This insures me that I get all the burnt fluid out of the lines as well.

BTW the burnt fluid is sometimes caused by heavy braking or just over time of continous use.

goatts

They need to be bled.

LSCHLEM

Thanks, Thats good info. I don't know how it got so black only after 8,500
miles on the Car. You would think I had 150,000 on the Car. Definately DOT4 on this trip.

Sparo2

Always use DOT4. I forgot which brand I bought the last time but I remember looking at the back of every can. I bought the one with the highest boiling point, both dry and wet. Burnt brake fluid is no longer good so be sure and change that asap.

Ya 8,500 miles doesn't sound like a lot but think about this. Some guy that babies the car can run that brake fluid clean for months, maybe even years. Me, I'd be lucky if I can keep it clean for more than a few months when I take it to the canyons.

BTW...don't forget to keep an eye on the resorvior when you're bleeding the brakes. You don't want to get any air in the system.

DONALD HALL

#1--The best tool for one person brake bleeding, Motive brake bleeder works great.

#2--Will require a second person to pump up the breaks and hold while other person opens bleeder at caliper to let out bad fluid. Close caliper bleeder and then let up on brake pedal and pump them up again.
Do this about 3 dozen times and you will flush the system. Like other poster said do not allow the master res. to go m/t. If you do air will get into the system or worse into the ABS valve and it is heck to get it out with out a tech 2.

My wife is very good at being the second person needed to do the pedal work, she has been doing it for 35 years.

LSCHLEM

Thanks Donald, I actually think I can Handle That. Good info. Leon

oldmansan

IMHO you don't need bleeders or a second person. A small length of plastic tubing and a container to catch the old fluid is all you need. Gravity bleed and tap the calipers with a plastic/rubber mallet. Use a good fluid. Motul RBF 600, ATE Super Blue or the ultimate brake fluid, Castrol SRF.

San

marc8090

Do NOT do the "Ranger" method on the brakes. Like the others have said you do not want the master cylinder empty. You'll introduce air upstream of the abs module. Only way to change brake fluid is by bleeding the old fluid out of the calipers and introducing new fluid up top until you get new fluid coming out of the calipers.

oldmansan

The biggest selling point of the ATE Super Blue and ATE Type 200 is that they're the same fluid but they have different colors. This is perfect when you're bleeding brakes as you know when the old fluid is out and the new fluid is coming through. Good fluid unless you demand the best, Castrol SRF.

San

LSCHLEM

Thanks Guys, I do get the central Idea about being careful not to let the reservior go low while filling it w new fluid then added as each brake cyllinder gets purged till color change. I like the idea with the line to the floor container. Tiurkey baster on the reservior first. fill with new, bleed or purge each one while supplementing the reservior. Thanks Again, Leon