PRE-Z06

just installing an EWP will free up ~5hp...now take off the belts as many hardcore drag guys and loose the parasitic losses of the power steering, alternator, a/c do and you're talking more like 15...usually good for atleast a tenth, depending on your goals

VetteNo2

Either Vette Magazine or GMHighTech Magazine did a comparo on this on a Z06 a year or two ago and got 13HP and 10.5 ft lbs. As I recall the torque improvement was almost the same from 3,000 up.

The gains from the pump should not be interactive with other gains.

EuroRod

I run the Meziere on my ProCharged C6.
Meziere offered the following:

1. Expect approx. a 12 hp gain.
2. Stock LS2 water pump puts out 22 ghh @ 5500 rpm.
3. Meziere puts out 55 gph constant.
4. Meziere + 160* t'stat + Ron Davis radiator + LPE oil cooler = a setup that never allows oil temps above 220* when pushing the engine with OAT above 100*.
5. Oil temp with normal driving w/ ac and OAT above 100* = 200*.
6. Coolant temps per above runs around 10* less across the board.
7. When OAT fall below 50* you will need to swap to a higher degree t'stat, as engine will never get to proper operating temps.
8. I have approx 2 1/2 years and 20+k miles on my Meziere and it has never failed to perform for me.

Katech_Zach

The stock LS2/LS7 water pump flowed 63gpm based on Katech's testing. Brand X electric water pump flowed 18gpm, not 55gpm as advertised. Since it's electric, it's flow is a flat line where a mechanical pump is a curve that increases with RPM. I'm guessing the advertised flow numbers are from directly testing the pump itself into an open bucket. Real world scenario bolted to an engine things are very different. Electric water pumps are for drag racers. In my opinion they are not for street cars and definitely not for road race cars. I doubt they make 1 horsepower more due to the law of conservation of energy as stated before. The engine is driving the alternator that's powering the electric motor. Unless somebody invents a solar-powered electric water pump I'm skeptical of any power gains. You are also spinning an idler pulley, because the belt still goes over the electric water pump.

NORTY

I could only guess what HP percentage an elecrical water pump could free up, but I can tell you how much power an oil pump "consumes."

Of course, it depends upon how viscous the oil is, but it's quite a bit.

juicedz06

I've done them on a couple F bodies, not worth doing. for an all out drag car trying to squeeze all HP possible maybe.

jpee

The "extra" HP is only one of the benifits.... My car runs its best ET if I leave the line at 150 deg. so after a run (1/4 mile) then driving about another 3/4 mile back at low speed to get back to my pit area, my engine is now at 190-200 deg...

If its time trials & I have an Hr + its no problem, however if I'm in eliminations, and win 2 or 3 rounds the amount of cars left is quite a bit less...if we start with 50 then its 25 then 13 after 3 rounds... of course the time to cool the engine down is only 15 -20 min

So with an Electric WP and an electric Fan (both can be run manually with the engine off) I can get my engine from 200 deg to 140 deg in 10 min..

Then do my burn out and I'm back to my "ideal" running temp... not only am I at my best temp, but any cars ET will change if he makes run #1 at 150 .. then Run #2 at 170... by now he had a lot of heat soak, and run 3 he will never get it under 180+ so now the driver has to figure in Engine temp, weather, track condition, etc..

But by being able to get my engine back to 150 deg. and my trans at the same, I'm eliminating some variables, & I only have to worry about the weather and track conditions..

Actually the HP is "SECOND" in priorities because I can dial (Bracket Race) my ET...so if the WP eats 12 hp its no problem because its using 12 hp an EVERY RUN nothing changes EXCEPT THE ENGINE TEMP if its hotter it will run slower (in my case anyway) So I use the electric WP more for "Consistency" I could care less if I run 12.10 or 12.30 as long as I know the variables...

Now if I were running an "Index" class i.e. 11.50 or 12.00 and have to run the # and my car is running 12.10 I can take the belt off for the run to pick up the .10 I need for that run....

Those are just my thoughts and experiences....don't know if I'm a smart thinker or a jackazz.... but its been working for me....

HOXXOH

I can't get coolant down to the 140-150 in Phoenix even in the dead of winter (ave. highs of 60 degrees) while running the engine occasionally to circulate tranny fluid. I'm more concerned with the trans, so how do you cool it quickly?

oldmansan

Thanks for your input. I probably wouldn't have gone with a "Brand X" electric pump as the price is high and the benefits seem very low, but now I wouldn't consider one if I won the lottery. Thanks again for real-world experience and advice.

San

EuroRod

Interesting claims. I installed the EWP so in case I tossed a belt, I could still get the car home without the fear of overheating. Of course, I could have simply carried a spare belt and the tools to replace it.

Sure would like to see a rebuttal from someone at Meziere.

Katech_Zach

Just get a Katech tensioner and you never have to worry about throwing the belt.

Who ever said it was Meziere?

dennis50nj

it must be the humidity, because it works that way in n.j. Jpee is a very good bracket racer, and knows what hes doing, with an electric fan switch, and a pump the temps will go down quickly

VetteNo2

The OP asked about the Meziere or a similar pump.

jpee

Tom...

I haven't done it yet but because my Trans Temp has never gone over 200 and its down to 180 for the run...


However you can get a small Tranny cooler that mounts in front near your radiator... If you get a trans cooler (about $50-70) be sure to get a STACKED PLATE TYPE it cools much faster and more temp drop than the finned aluminum...

You can do the whole job in 1 hr... Another way is the get a larger transmission finned aluminum pan with a 2 qt larger capacity..

I personally prefer the cooler.. its cheaper & better !!

BornSUPERCHARGED

I think you need to read this thread again, you'll understand. If not...

BornSUPERCHARGED

Actually, check out this comment:
From this thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...y-be-over.html

Seems the Perma-Cool 1024 would be a better option all around.

Katech_Zach

I know. I was maintaining the anonymity of our testing.

BornSUPERCHARGED

I'm glad an unbiased 3rd party like Katech did some real testing to determine the real world/real application flow rates.

dennis50nj

It might be the brand and not the type, I run the stacked type in permacool 12"x12" and never reach 190 at the track hot lapping

VetteNo2

Thanks. Preserving the anonymity of your testing is prudent, perhaps even graceful.

After reflecting on the posts in this thread and others on this topic which seem to present relevants facts, I was interested in the Meziere pump for my street-only Corvette. I found your posted test results counter to that interest. I have contacted Meziere about the issue. Presumably, they'll respond. If I discover anything, I'll let you know.

Keep making cool Corvette stuff!