MGW shifter question. PLEASE HELP!!
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MGW shifter question. PLEASE HELP!!
I just installed a new MGW shifter and took the car for a drive. There's a 1 to 1.5 inch play in the shifter when in neutral and when in gear, any gear. I know MGW builds their shifters so they perform better when the transmission is at operating temp but the amount of play left to right, even after a one hour drive, never got smaller. The play is only side to side, not front to back. If this is how MGW shifters are supposed to work, I hate it.
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Make SURE that the four fasteners that secure the shifter to the shift box are the correct bolts (you can NOT use the OEM bolts. There too short) and the shifter is properly secured to the shifter box. The ones that are supplied by the shifter manufacture should be LONGER!
There are TWO large fasteners that secure the BOX to the torque tube. Look at mine and you will see that the bushings under the screws are METAL. If you have a NON ZO6 those bushings will be RUBBER. If there damaged,rotten, the box will be loose on the torque tube.
BC
There are TWO large fasteners that secure the BOX to the torque tube. Look at mine and you will see that the bushings under the screws are METAL. If you have a NON ZO6 those bushings will be RUBBER. If there damaged,rotten, the box will be loose on the torque tube.
BC
#5
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other then the rattling, i love mine, the rattling sucks... One thing that concerned me is that there was no telling wich direction the shifter was to be installed on the box. Does it matter? You can flip it 180 degrees and it bolts on in either direction.
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The 4 bolts to the shifter box are threaded into aluminum and kind small in diameter. So you want to be careful when you torque them down or you could strip the threads. I have seen that.
Once you torque down the 2 big torx bolts to the torque tube, check the shifter box to make sure this no movement up-down, right-left or front-back. Watch the bushings to see if there is any movement.
Lastly, and this is just a shot in the dark, but did you transfer over the plastic cup from the old shifter to the new one?
Once you torque down the 2 big torx bolts to the torque tube, check the shifter box to make sure this no movement up-down, right-left or front-back. Watch the bushings to see if there is any movement.
Lastly, and this is just a shot in the dark, but did you transfer over the plastic cup from the old shifter to the new one?
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I checked the shifter box bushings and they're still OK. I used the four supplied bolts from MGW to bolt the shifter to the shifter box. The plastic cup cannot be transfered from the stock as the new shifter comes with a large plastic **** to fit into the shifting mechanism. I'm out of ideas so I think it's time to rip everything out again and check my work.
#11
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Anyone have there MGW shifter pop out of 2nd gear all the time? I just got a new tranny installed and the shop thinks its the shifter. I bought a used shifter but the rubber bushings are shot in it and I guess I need some stock bolts to install it as well. I just want to know if re-installing the stock shifter is even worth my time.
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I checked the shifter box bushings and they're still OK. I used the four supplied bolts from MGW to bolt the shifter to the shifter box. The plastic cup cannot be transfered from the stock as the new shifter comes with a large plastic **** to fit into the shifting mechanism. I'm out of ideas so I think it's time to rip everything out again and check my work.
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Anyone have there MGW shifter pop out of 2nd gear all the time? I just got a new tranny installed and the shop thinks its the shifter. I bought a used shifter but the rubber bushings are shot in it and I guess I need some stock bolts to install it as well. I just want to know if re-installing the stock shifter is even worth my time.
Thinks?? Baloney. There are a lot of folks with MGW shifters and you don't hear about this issue at all.
Assuming that the replacement transmission isn't faulty, it definitely possible that when the shop installed the new tranny they misaligned the shifter rod correctly when they reconnected it to the shifter box. The only way the shifter would "cause" the thing to pop out of 2nd is if the way they connected it isn't allowing the shifter to move the tranny all the way into gear. (Or, when they connected it they didn't tighten it enough and the rod is slipping but that would likely show up as problems with 5th and 6th, too.)
The fact that the shop didn't diagnose this issue BEFORE you got the car back is, um, interesting
Z//
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I took everything apart and found my problem is the shifter box, specifically the metal shaft that goes out of the back of the shifter box to the transmission. The notch on the shaft that the bolt goes through is rounding off. Did I do something wrong when I reinstalled the shifter box? I made sure the notch lined up with the hole in the shifter box before I reinstalled it. I can't see why it would be more loose than it originally was before I took it out.
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I took everything apart and found my problem is the shifter box, specifically the metal shaft that goes out of the back of the shifter box to the transmission. The notch on the shaft that the bolt goes through is rounding off. Did I do something wrong when I reinstalled the shifter box? I made sure the notch lined up with the hole in the shifter box before I reinstalled it. I can't see why it would be more loose than it originally was before I took it out.
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I think I found the problem. I didn't have the bolt that tighten's the metal clamp around the shaft torqued down enough so it was allowing the shaft to rotate inside the clamp. There was also a small amount of grease around that part of the shaft, making it even easier for it to rotate. I was mistaken in thinking the notch in the shaft was there so the bolt keeps it from rotating, it's just there so the bolt can go through the hole in the shifter box. Hope this helps anyone that plans on taking the shifter box out. TIGHTEN THE HELL OUT OF THAT BOLT THAT CLAMPS AROUND THAT SHAFT!
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Looks like someone tried to thread the rod clamp bolt before the shaft from the box was aligned in the clamp.
Normally the notch is smooth without any thread marks.
Here is procedure I followed is:
1. Place box on the torque tube mounts while inserting the shaft from the shifter box into the rod clamp going to the trans.
2. Insert the alignment pin in the hole on the front of the box. This aligns the shifter shaft inside the box. If you don't have a pin, use a suitable size drill bit.
3. Loosely thread the two right side shifter box mounting bolts. Do not tighten. You just want to keep the box from flopping around.
3. Visually check alignment of hole in clamp and notch on shifter shaft using small flash light. Add thread locker liquid to bolt and insert in shifter rod clamp. Wiggle the shifter box front to rear until bolt aligns in notch and it drops down to the threaded area of the clamp. Use light downward pressure on bolt. If aligned properly, it will slip into position.Do not turn or force bolt.
5. Once bolt drops down, it should start to thread into clamp by hand. Tighten bolt in clamp.
6. Add thread locker to torque tube mount bolts and tighten.
Normally the notch is smooth without any thread marks.
Here is procedure I followed is:
1. Place box on the torque tube mounts while inserting the shaft from the shifter box into the rod clamp going to the trans.
2. Insert the alignment pin in the hole on the front of the box. This aligns the shifter shaft inside the box. If you don't have a pin, use a suitable size drill bit.
3. Loosely thread the two right side shifter box mounting bolts. Do not tighten. You just want to keep the box from flopping around.
3. Visually check alignment of hole in clamp and notch on shifter shaft using small flash light. Add thread locker liquid to bolt and insert in shifter rod clamp. Wiggle the shifter box front to rear until bolt aligns in notch and it drops down to the threaded area of the clamp. Use light downward pressure on bolt. If aligned properly, it will slip into position.Do not turn or force bolt.
5. Once bolt drops down, it should start to thread into clamp by hand. Tighten bolt in clamp.
6. Add thread locker to torque tube mount bolts and tighten.
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I think I found the problem. I didn't have the bolt that tighten's the metal clamp around the shaft torqued down enough so it was allowing the shaft to rotate inside the clamp. There was also a small amount of grease around that part of the shaft, making it even easier for it to rotate. I was mistaken in thinking the notch in the shaft was there so the bolt keeps it from rotating, it's just there so the bolt can go through the hole in the shifter box. Hope this helps anyone that plans on taking the shifter box out. TIGHTEN THE HELL OUT OF THAT BOLT THAT CLAMPS AROUND THAT SHAFT!