Need A6 transmission cooler advice
#1
Need A6 transmission cooler advice
I am getting ready to have a Yank converter installed this spring in my A6 C6. I am going to add a transmission cooler first. I plan on installing B&M Hi-Tek ( unless I hear that there is something better) transmission cooler that has the fan that turns on at 175 degrees.
1. Should I have the transmission lines go to the radiator transmission cooler first and then to the B&M or can I go from transmission to the B&M and skip the radiator cooler?
2. B&M makes two sizes. – a 9inch fan and a 7 inch fan. Has anyone found one to better serve their needs when racing. Price is not the issue and either one will fit.
The car will be used for quarter mile runs several times per month and some low speed road courses. Any thoughts?
1. Should I have the transmission lines go to the radiator transmission cooler first and then to the B&M or can I go from transmission to the B&M and skip the radiator cooler?
2. B&M makes two sizes. – a 9inch fan and a 7 inch fan. Has anyone found one to better serve their needs when racing. Price is not the issue and either one will fit.
The car will be used for quarter mile runs several times per month and some low speed road courses. Any thoughts?
#2
Drifting
Get the B&M Supercooler #70264 and mount it against the side of the radiator on the passenger side of the car with the fins perpendicular to the ground. It will not affect your coolant temps - of course make sure you have a 160 t-stat like the SLP that runs 171-176 all the time. Your tranny temps should run anywhere from 130-185 depending on ambient tepms and level of abuse. You need to run through the stock cooler and then through the B&M Supercooler and then back into the transmisson - this order is very important! You do not need any additional fans if you mount the cooler as stated. Of course you need a tune to lower your fan engagment temps to accomodate the lower t-stat. I have used this exact setup on several vettes and if you follow these instructions you will be very happy. I bought mine at Amazon for a great price
#3
Melting Slicks
Get the B&M Supercooler #70264 and mount it against the side of the radiator on the passenger side of the car with the fins perpendicular to the ground. It will not affect your coolant temps - of course make sure you have a 160 t-stat like the SLP that runs 171-176 all the time. Your tranny temps should run anywhere from 130-185 depending on ambient tepms and level of abuse. You need to run through the stock cooler and then through the B&M Supercooler and then back into the transmisson - this order is very important! You do not need any additional fans if you mount the cooler as stated. Of course you need a tune to lower your fan engagment temps to accomodate the lower t-stat. I have used this exact setup on several vettes and if you follow these instructions you will be very happy. I bought mine at Amazon for a great price
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
Posts: 23,937
Received 2,051 Likes
on
1,362 Posts
St. Jude Donor '13
Get the B&M Supercooler #70264 and mount it against the side of the radiator on the passenger side of the car with the fins perpendicular to the ground. It will not affect your coolant temps - of course make sure you have a 160 t-stat like the SLP that runs 171-176 all the time. Your tranny temps should run anywhere from 130-185 depending on ambient tepms and level of abuse. You need to run through the stock cooler and then through the B&M Supercooler and then back into the transmisson - this order is very important! You do not need any additional fans if you mount the cooler as stated. Of course you need a tune to lower your fan engagment temps to accomodate the lower t-stat. I have used this exact setup on several vettes and if you follow these instructions you will be very happy. I bought mine at Amazon for a great price
My poor brain can't visualize the cooler location and air flow.
#5
keep it going
Keep it going.
This is all good solid info. For those of you who have done this are you very sure a fan is not needed on the cooler? I do have the 160 thermostat and the engine runs 180 to 190. The tranny never gets over 220 and that is only when I am using the paddles constantly in 95 degree heat. Normally the tranny runs at 170 -180. I am sure with the Yank it will drive up temps especially at the track.
PS Thanks for the hook up info. Not sure if that is mentioned in the install instructions and anyone who has pictures it would be great to see the actually install up front by the radiator
This is all good solid info. For those of you who have done this are you very sure a fan is not needed on the cooler? I do have the 160 thermostat and the engine runs 180 to 190. The tranny never gets over 220 and that is only when I am using the paddles constantly in 95 degree heat. Normally the tranny runs at 170 -180. I am sure with the Yank it will drive up temps especially at the track.
PS Thanks for the hook up info. Not sure if that is mentioned in the install instructions and anyone who has pictures it would be great to see the actually install up front by the radiator
#7
#8
Race Director
i used a 12 x 12 hayden from pep boys, mounted it lowest dead center in front of the condensor, still have room for the vararam, trans to cooler only, bypass the rad
#9
Drifting
If you lay down and look up under the car you will see the radiator. The cooler goes on the far passenger side against the radiator with the rubber spacers that come with cooler. It goes longways up and down so the fins catch all of the air when you are driving. Hope that helps until I get pictures. Also, the B&M cooler comes with everything you need to hook it up properly for a great price. Temps over 200 are asking for premature failure IMO...
Last edited by OBSSSD; 12-22-2010 at 04:50 PM.
#10
Advanced
Member Since: Jul 2009
Location: HOLLYWOOD FLORIDA
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just had Yank 3200 installed, my temps are riding (motor now 195 to 205). Tranny temps in the same range and thats with dewitts radiator, And 160 thermastat. Outside temp has been cool here in south florida. So , i guess i will need tranny cooler also. I can only imagine in summer. Thanks for info.
#11
youout,
just so you know, the top transmission line in the radiator is the return line to the trans. Cut this line and make your connection from there to the new cooler and then from the cooler back to this line. I got a new line from Chevy and made the connections, then just swapped out the new line.
just so you know, the top transmission line in the radiator is the return line to the trans. Cut this line and make your connection from there to the new cooler and then from the cooler back to this line. I got a new line from Chevy and made the connections, then just swapped out the new line.
#12
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2007
Location: Brentwood World's first A6 in the 9's (including N/A, blower, turbo and nitrous cars) 9.950@139.267 CA
Posts: 3,097
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Just so you know...
There's actually a much simpler way that doesn't require any cutting or purchasing new parts from GM.
What I did with mine was disconnect both cooler lines from the radiator and then attach new rubber lines to each one going to the external cooler and thus bypassing the cooler in the radiator altogether.
I've tried it both ways (going through the radiator cooler and bypassing it) and found no noticeable difference in cooling. Also, if your external cooler ever dies on you or you split a hose (and believe me, it can happen) all you need to do is plug the factory lines back into the radiator to avoid an expensive towing bill.
What I did with mine was disconnect both cooler lines from the radiator and then attach new rubber lines to each one going to the external cooler and thus bypassing the cooler in the radiator altogether.
I've tried it both ways (going through the radiator cooler and bypassing it) and found no noticeable difference in cooling. Also, if your external cooler ever dies on you or you split a hose (and believe me, it can happen) all you need to do is plug the factory lines back into the radiator to avoid an expensive towing bill.
#13
Race Director
There's actually a much simpler way that doesn't require any cutting or purchasing new parts from GM.
What I did with mine was disconnect both cooler lines from the radiator and then attach new rubber lines to each one going to the external cooler and thus bypassing the cooler in the radiator altogether.
I've tried it both ways (going through the radiator cooler and bypassing it) and found no noticeable difference in cooling. Also, if your external cooler ever dies on you or you split a hose (and believe me, it can happen) all you need to do is plug the factory lines back into the radiator to avoid an expensive towing bill.
What I did with mine was disconnect both cooler lines from the radiator and then attach new rubber lines to each one going to the external cooler and thus bypassing the cooler in the radiator altogether.
I've tried it both ways (going through the radiator cooler and bypassing it) and found no noticeable difference in cooling. Also, if your external cooler ever dies on you or you split a hose (and believe me, it can happen) all you need to do is plug the factory lines back into the radiator to avoid an expensive towing bill.
I HAVE A 3800 RPM CONVERTER THAT PROBABLY FLASHES TO 4200., i have taken the car to 185 many times, have 373 gears, my car runs 170-181 on a 95 degree day, have made many mid 10 second passes back to back hot lapped 4 times and never had the trans temp go over 170 at the track, gears wil give you higher rpm at speed making higher trans temps, and a big converter, and aggresive driving flashing that converter will raise your temps , with the cooler going into the radiator your trans temps will match your water temps
#14
Drifting
There's actually a much simpler way that doesn't require any cutting or purchasing new parts from GM.
What I did with mine was disconnect both cooler lines from the radiator and then attach new rubber lines to each one going to the external cooler and thus bypassing the cooler in the radiator altogether.
I've tried it both ways (going through the radiator cooler and bypassing it) and found no noticeable difference in cooling. Also, if your external cooler ever dies on you or you split a hose (and believe me, it can happen) all you need to do is plug the factory lines back into the radiator to avoid an expensive towing bill.
What I did with mine was disconnect both cooler lines from the radiator and then attach new rubber lines to each one going to the external cooler and thus bypassing the cooler in the radiator altogether.
I've tried it both ways (going through the radiator cooler and bypassing it) and found no noticeable difference in cooling. Also, if your external cooler ever dies on you or you split a hose (and believe me, it can happen) all you need to do is plug the factory lines back into the radiator to avoid an expensive towing bill.
#15
Race Director
I'm not sure that people in really cold climates would be running adequate tranny temps in a reasonable time without running through the radiator. With a 160 t-stat (171-176 coolant temps) I see anywhere from 125-180 so I don't agree with the other poster that said the temps will be the same as the coolant. If the cooler is hooked up properly I don't see the lines ever splitting or coming loose. Plus bypassing the cooler with lower fluid capacity, which I'm not a fan of myself. Not saying your setup doesn't work, but it isn't what I'd recommend to someone or use myself.
#17
Drifting
i live in the north east, N.J, i dont put it up for the winter, i drive it all year, all thats in the radiator cooler is pipe, if you bypass the rad and add more line you add capacity. my car has been that way for 4 years, i have 3 automatic gm vehicles, have you ever noticed when leaving the house even in the summer i travel a mile or so before the trans warms up enough to go into converter loc up in final gear, that with all 3, and only the vette has the bypass, the engine generates heat from the exsplosion in the cylinders, the water temp is not the engine or oil temp the trans fluid would be the same as the water temp it is using to cool it exiting the line, bypassing would make it cooler, i seen on a longer ride the trans and water temps were the same without the cooler
#18
Racer
Sorry I don't have any, but I just bought a 2010 GS with the A6 and I am about to install the exact same cooler in the same position. Will take pictures and post up once I get it done. Do NOT bypass the factory trans cooler folks
If you lay down and look up under the car you will see the radiator. The cooler goes on the far passenger side against the radiator with the rubber spacers that come with cooler. It goes longways up and down so the fins catch all of the air when you are driving. Hope that helps until I get pictures. Also, the B&M cooler comes with everything you need to hook it up properly for a great price. Temps over 200 are asking for premature failure IMO...
If you lay down and look up under the car you will see the radiator. The cooler goes on the far passenger side against the radiator with the rubber spacers that come with cooler. It goes longways up and down so the fins catch all of the air when you are driving. Hope that helps until I get pictures. Also, the B&M cooler comes with everything you need to hook it up properly for a great price. Temps over 200 are asking for premature failure IMO...
#19
Race Director
I also have 3 GM vehicles set up like this. Our Trailblazer SS runs 115-130 degree trans temps with the stock t-stat when ambient temps are 40 degrees. Coolant temps are steady at 189 degrees, and all of this is while flogging the truck down the highway for several miles logging with HPTuners. So agree to disagree? My experience has been different than yours in many other cases as well. Not saying it won't work, but I have my own preferences that have worked well for me. Difficult to see how the fluid would warm up at the same rate when bypassing the cooler, but each to his own
#20
Drifting
Many vehicles that don't come with coolers run tranny temps that are too high. Usually the transmissions lasts until the warranty is up - then guess what? You get to hand over $2k to the dealer for a rebuild. Sometimes I think they plan on this