Dropping your C6's drivetrain, Version 4.0
#161
#162
Just pull the line bolt and carefully pull the transmission lines out of their orifices and then they can be held to one side. With tthe tunnel plate out of the way, you can pull the lines down and to the side so that you can pull the transmission out. Note: there is a metal gasket with rubber seals that sit on the shoulders of the lines. I just screwed the bolt back in to hold that in place, so that I wouldn't lose it or the bolt.
If you look at the photo below, you will see the lines disconnected and pulled to the side. The small red things are some plastic plugs/caps that used to keep dirt out and ATF from running out of the lines.
If you look at the photo below, you will see the lines disconnected and pulled to the side. The small red things are some plastic plugs/caps that used to keep dirt out and ATF from running out of the lines.
#164
Bump! Attempting this tomorrow, would be awesome if we could get the pics fixed. The reason they keep going down is because they are linking to Facebook btw. They should be hosted on imgur or something instead.
#165
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St. Jude Donor '15
Swapping clutch or what?
I've done it a few more times than I'd care to admit. Let me know if you have any specific questions.
I've done it a few more times than I'd care to admit. Let me know if you have any specific questions.
#166
How many floor jacks do I need? And do I need to get a transmission jack? Or can I just use floor jacks?
#167
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St. Jude Donor '15
The first time I did it all I had were floor jacks and I got through it. These just made it a bit easier and faster.
Last edited by schpenxel; 11-27-2015 at 08:34 PM.
#168
I use a floor jack with a crossbeam attachment (harbor freight) on the rear cradle then a cheapo harbor freight transmission jack (not a hydraulic one.. It's a scissor jack style one) to support the front of the torque tube. It rolls any direction which helps moving it around
The first time I did it all I had were floor jacks and I got through it. These just made it a bit easier and faster.
The first time I did it all I had were floor jacks and I got through it. These just made it a bit easier and faster.
Is this high enough off the ground to drop the transmission? I'm worried there won't be enough space, this is as high as my jack will lift.
Last edited by freaknbigpanda; 11-28-2015 at 04:35 PM.
#169
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St. Jude Donor '15
That will be very close... I'm not sure if it will clear. If it does I think it will be pretty tight
#170
So I'm stuck right now trying to get the tranny out. I just dropped the rear suspension cradle and removed it from the vehicle. What should my next step be? The service manual is telling me to take the torque tube off at the flywheel and then separate the tranny from the tube later but I'm thinking it might be easier to just take the tranny off before?
Also what are these two lines pictured in the photo? One of them connects directly to the tranny so it looks like I'm going to have to remove it somehow, what about the one on the left though? Do I need to remove it too? I went over the service manual and I didn't see any mention of these lines so I was confused.
Also what are these two lines pictured in the photo? One of them connects directly to the tranny so it looks like I'm going to have to remove it somehow, what about the one on the left though? Do I need to remove it too? I went over the service manual and I didn't see any mention of these lines so I was confused.
#171
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St. Jude Donor '15
Those are transmission fluid lines. They go to a heat exchanger built into the radiator (I'd never seen that on a manual transmission car until the Z51 C6's). Weird.. but normal on these.
You'll have to disconnect them up front. On the passenger side, up near the engine is where those lines disconnect. The connection looks like it would unscrew, but it does not. There are little circlips that you have to pull out. Just take a pick or something and pull them out. Usually they will come out without too much trouble
You won't be able to (or at least I wasn't able to) get to the circlips where those lines connect to the transmission. Once you have the transmission/torque tube separated you can get to the circlips no problem. For reassembly you can put the circlips in and then pop the tubes on whenever.. they go together easy
After you get the circlips out it may or may not want to come apart. Being a solid tube from front to back with no rubber sections makes it quite stiff, so it may not come apart until you're pulling the transmission off. I'll put a picture of a close up of the fitting down below so you can see how the clip works
As far as whether to pull the whole torque tube/transmission out or just the transmission.. I'm honestly not sure. I've always pulled the whole thing out then dealt with the torque tube later. I'm not 100% sure which would be easier.
I would study both cases closely then try to decide. You're not far now.. make sure the shifter is removed if you decide to pull the whole tube out.
Personally I'd probably pull the torque tube to make sure the bearings are ing good shape.. they're a pain to replace later if they go out by themselves
You'll have to disconnect them up front. On the passenger side, up near the engine is where those lines disconnect. The connection looks like it would unscrew, but it does not. There are little circlips that you have to pull out. Just take a pick or something and pull them out. Usually they will come out without too much trouble
You won't be able to (or at least I wasn't able to) get to the circlips where those lines connect to the transmission. Once you have the transmission/torque tube separated you can get to the circlips no problem. For reassembly you can put the circlips in and then pop the tubes on whenever.. they go together easy
After you get the circlips out it may or may not want to come apart. Being a solid tube from front to back with no rubber sections makes it quite stiff, so it may not come apart until you're pulling the transmission off. I'll put a picture of a close up of the fitting down below so you can see how the clip works
As far as whether to pull the whole torque tube/transmission out or just the transmission.. I'm honestly not sure. I've always pulled the whole thing out then dealt with the torque tube later. I'm not 100% sure which would be easier.
I would study both cases closely then try to decide. You're not far now.. make sure the shifter is removed if you decide to pull the whole tube out.
Personally I'd probably pull the torque tube to make sure the bearings are ing good shape.. they're a pain to replace later if they go out by themselves
Last edited by schpenxel; 12-05-2015 at 09:36 PM.
#172
Ok thanks so much for the info! I think I am going to try to pull the whole drive line at once. Where did you place your jacks to support the drive line while you were pulling the torque tube out? Right now I've got a tranny jack under the tranny and normal floor jack under the oil pan. Is this is right spot to have them to remove the torque tube?
Last edited by freaknbigpanda; 12-05-2015 at 10:13 PM.
#173
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St. Jude Donor '15
I pull the whole thing in one piece
The cheapo transmission jack I have towards the front of the torque tube will not actually go high enough for it to support the torque tube while it's in the car.. I had a few blocks of wood on top of it to make it tall/skinny enough to reach the torque tube
Short version is I'd put a transmission jack under the transmission like you already have. If you put it slightly forward from the rear end there shouldn't be too much weight on torque tube when it comes out
Put a jack near the front of the torque tube. It needs to be something that will roll and have the wheels set so it can roll straight back easily
You can put one under the engine oil pan too if you want. It makes it easier if you're able to control the angle of the engine. Once the tip of the torque tube is out of the pilot bearing it should come out pretty easy.
What I usually do is get the front of the torque tube supported a little bit, then raise the transmission up and down a little bit while pulling on it. At some point the stars will align and it will come apart
The cheapo transmission jack I have towards the front of the torque tube will not actually go high enough for it to support the torque tube while it's in the car.. I had a few blocks of wood on top of it to make it tall/skinny enough to reach the torque tube
Short version is I'd put a transmission jack under the transmission like you already have. If you put it slightly forward from the rear end there shouldn't be too much weight on torque tube when it comes out
Put a jack near the front of the torque tube. It needs to be something that will roll and have the wheels set so it can roll straight back easily
You can put one under the engine oil pan too if you want. It makes it easier if you're able to control the angle of the engine. Once the tip of the torque tube is out of the pilot bearing it should come out pretty easy.
What I usually do is get the front of the torque tube supported a little bit, then raise the transmission up and down a little bit while pulling on it. At some point the stars will align and it will come apart
Last edited by schpenxel; 12-05-2015 at 10:34 PM.
#175
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St. Jude Donor '15
That's the clutch slave hydraulic line. You'll have to disconnect it at the other end, basically under the clutch master cylinder. There's a big black connector with two clips. Remove the big one and it should pull apart.
Last edited by schpenxel; 12-06-2015 at 03:03 PM.
#176
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St. Jude Donor '15
Woohoo!
It should come right apart if there's no weight on it
Are you sure the oil lines aren't in the way? I usually put a jack at the front of the transmission so I can take any weight off of shaft that connects the torque tube to the transmission
It should come right apart if there's no weight on it
Are you sure the oil lines aren't in the way? I usually put a jack at the front of the transmission so I can take any weight off of shaft that connects the torque tube to the transmission
#179
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St. Jude Donor '15
Looks like the lower shifter box has been unbolted from the torque tube.. though I'd remove the bolt holding the shaft to the box too just to be sure
#180
Got everything apart! Started to rebuild my tranny today
Note the x pipe workbench lol
I did mess something up though, when I was taking out the torque tube I had forgotten to remove the clutch line and I couldn't find where to unclip it so I ended up cutting the line (the soft part). And then just today when I was moving the torque tube around and the hard part that was still attached to the tube snapped off completely:
This snapped off entirely from the torque tube
This is the where I had originally cut it off
Couple questions:
1. How can I repair the cut soft part of the line?
2. How can I repair the part that has snapped off entirely from the torque tube?
Cheers and thanks in advance!
Note the x pipe workbench lol
I did mess something up though, when I was taking out the torque tube I had forgotten to remove the clutch line and I couldn't find where to unclip it so I ended up cutting the line (the soft part). And then just today when I was moving the torque tube around and the hard part that was still attached to the tube snapped off completely:
This snapped off entirely from the torque tube
This is the where I had originally cut it off
Couple questions:
1. How can I repair the cut soft part of the line?
2. How can I repair the part that has snapped off entirely from the torque tube?
Cheers and thanks in advance!