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Old 03-11-2011, 10:31 PM   #1
dino456gt
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Member Since: Jan 2007
Default Auto torque tube noise

Supposed to be very unusual for an automatic to get the "marbles in a can", but I had it. Maybe a better way to describe it was that the car sounded like it has a diesel! Well I put it up on floor stands and dropped the carriage, diff/tranny and torque tube. Went as far as replacing the flywheel or flexplate.

Three new bearings at Boca Bearings in Delray Beach, FL cost $60, a new slinger (washer) from Chevy for $10.00 and it's ready to be put back together.

I may have come across another major possible issue. The front end of the torque tube is machined to support the splined shaft bearing. I'm wondering if the O.D. of old bearing was spinning and causing the problem? Chevy engineered a rear bearing housing that would make it impossible for the bearings to spin, but looks like it must have been time to go home when they designed the front end.

Has anyone had this problem?
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Old 03-11-2011, 10:43 PM   #2
taken19
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I have an M6 but just went through a TT rebuild. I'm not sure of the differences, but if you think the housing diameter is too large to keep the bearing outer race from spinning, you should look into the green loctite (dont remember which number it is). This stuff is made specifically to take up the gap and create an artificial press fit. I thnk it will hold 2000 psi if I remember correctly. A quick and easy solution for things that were machined wrong. Do you see scoring in the housing that indicated relative motion?

Hope that helps a bit. Sean
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Old 03-11-2011, 10:48 PM   #3
BornSUPERCHARGED
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The oem torque tube will flex and bend while accelerating, more so at WOT than otherwise, causing the rubber drives to wear out prematurely. DSS makes a poly driveshaft coupler which can better take the stresses vs. oem coupler. Pfadt noticed this problem as well, though they dont offer anything for the automatics. DSS also makes heavy duty torque tubes which support 1000hp, and they warranty them for 1 year.

This is something that Stephen@East Texas Muscle Cars brought to my attention today, while everything is out of my car I'm debating if I should upgrade to DSS' Level 5 1000hp axle/hub, their 100hp torque tube, and their 300M heat treated output shafts. Pricey pricey but install is a lot easier when everything is already out.
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Old 03-11-2011, 10:59 PM   #4
dino456gt
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I can see a few marks on the TT housing that does not look right. The edge of the diameter also feels slightly raised and sharp like the aluminum was displaced. I like the loctite idea because I was thinking about a machine shop to cut the idea and MFG a stainless steel sleeve to bring it back to the correct dimension.

Quote:
Originally Posted by taken19 View Post
I have an M6 but just went through a TT rebuild. I'm not sure of the differences, but if you think the housing diameter is too large to keep the bearing outer race from spinning, you should look into the green loctite (dont remember which number it is). This stuff is made specifically to take up the gap and create an artificial press fit. I thnk it will hold 2000 psi if I remember correctly. A quick and easy solution for things that were machined wrong. Do you see scoring in the housing that indicated relative motion?

Hope that helps a bit. Sean
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Old 03-12-2011, 07:42 AM   #5
Red06Vette
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The Loctite you are looking for is I believe #609
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Old 03-12-2011, 07:42 AM
 
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