2nd Gear grind
#1
2nd Gear grind
Whats up guys, I have a question about a grind I've been noticing in while shifting into 2nd and maybe some of you can help me diagnose the problem. When shifting into 2nd gear on my 2005 c6, I notice a very subtle grind. It just started happening, or at least I've just now noticed it. Every gear seems to engage fine, no other issues shifting. It doesn't seem to fight me when putting it in 2nd, it shifts smoothly but I can hear the slight grind. It is the same sound that would occur if you were to try to shift into a gear without the clutch being engaged, but it literally only lasts for a fraction of a second. For a while, I was having a hard time putting it into 1st when stopped at a light. There was no grinding at that time, it was just fighting me and not allowing it me to shift into 1st. Now the 2nd gear has that grind, and I don't know if I'm experiencing a clutch issue or if its something else? I have changed out the clutch fluid already. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks
#2
Tech Contributor
I am hesitant to post because I don't like to post potential bad news, but when my tranny started grinding it never got better and I had to have it replaced. It's a syncro going out I'm afraid.
My tranny used to give me fits going into first from day one also.
The good news is the new rebuild I got locally has a revised 1st syncro and it goes into first perfectly every time.
My tranny used to give me fits going into first from day one also.
The good news is the new rebuild I got locally has a revised 1st syncro and it goes into first perfectly every time.
#5
Thanks for the reply guys. So a bad synchro requires a rebuild, how about the clutch? I bought the car used so I'm not sure how the clutch is looking, I guess it would have to be taken apart to find out! What is throwing me off about this situation is I noticed a very slight leak(so slight that it won't even drip) from the transmission seal a few weeks ago. The fluid was perfectly clean and the fluid level was still very high when we checked it, but I didn't have any issues until I discovered that leak. I'm annoyed with the situation because I bought the car on a Sunday, and before I bought it the only place open was a oil change place. I went with the previous owner(and paid $100 to get the oil changed) to this place, just so the tech could look under there for me and tell me if there were any leaks or anything, and he said it was PERFECTLY CLEAN.2 days later I take it to my regular shop and discover the fluid on the underside of my tranny.
Last edited by batmobile22; 04-01-2011 at 02:38 PM.
#6
Melting Slicks
the syncro is starting to go. the number one killer of transmissions and transmission parts it the clutch not releasing cleanly. the clue here is it is fighting you getting into first gear. do not replace the transmission or have it repaired without also checking out the clutch operation. dirty fluid also will keep your clutch from releasing completely............cranky
#7
the syncro is starting to go. the number one killer of transmissions and transmission parts it the clutch not releasing cleanly. the clue here is it is fighting you getting into first gear. do not replace the transmission or have it repaired without also checking out the clutch operation. dirty fluid also will keep your clutch from releasing completely............cranky
#8
Pro
Being you are the new owner of the Vette and likely going to have to rebuild the trans, I would suggest switching the clutch and the assembly out now -- as it will be easy to do at this point and save you time and labor. Also it will give you assurances that the clutch is good.
#9
Tech Contributor
Being you are the new owner of the Vette and likely going to have to rebuild the trans, I would suggest switching the clutch and the assembly out now -- as it will be easy to do at this point and save you time and labor. Also it will give you assurances that the clutch is good.
However, can you describe more about how this showed up? Did you miss 2nd a few times? Were you power shifting?
Reason I ask is folks here will have a better idea what may have caused this if you describe the symptoms more explicitly. It's possible it's not clutch related, or it might be hydraulics. More details might help.
#12
Melting Slicks
Start with the easy fixes first. Make sure you have checked the clutch fluid and flushed it thoroughly. You may even have to bleed the system if air has gotten into the lines.
Most transmission synchro problems start out with a clutch that does not disengage properly. If you repeatedly have problems selecting first gear at a stop, it usually is the clutch.
If you just have a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd, then it may be a worn 2nd gear synchro or dog teeth. If it is difficult to shift into any gear, then it is probably the clutch.
It may help to understand you are not actually moving a gear when you shift, just a collar that engages dog teeth built into the front of the gear. All the gears except the reverse idler are in a fixed position on their shaft. It is the job of the synchro to accelerate the gear to the same speed as the collar so the dog teeth engage smoothly. You may have driven a truck with a non-synchronized trans. You have to match gear RPM with engine RPM to shift smoothly.
Try double clutching going into second a few times and see if this stops the grinding. Double clutching should accelerate the gear just like the synchro. Also try down shifting to second a few times and see if the same grinding symptom results.
Most transmission synchro problems start out with a clutch that does not disengage properly. If you repeatedly have problems selecting first gear at a stop, it usually is the clutch.
If you just have a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd, then it may be a worn 2nd gear synchro or dog teeth. If it is difficult to shift into any gear, then it is probably the clutch.
It may help to understand you are not actually moving a gear when you shift, just a collar that engages dog teeth built into the front of the gear. All the gears except the reverse idler are in a fixed position on their shaft. It is the job of the synchro to accelerate the gear to the same speed as the collar so the dog teeth engage smoothly. You may have driven a truck with a non-synchronized trans. You have to match gear RPM with engine RPM to shift smoothly.
Try double clutching going into second a few times and see if this stops the grinding. Double clutching should accelerate the gear just like the synchro. Also try down shifting to second a few times and see if the same grinding symptom results.
#14
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jan 2010
Location: Orient Oh
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I got something going on with my tranny as well. Ima do it ya self kinda guy so im am going to fix mine and take pictures and the tools needed to do it. My problem is slightly different from your's but it sounds close to yours.
#16
#17
I have found some rebuild kits online, there is A LOT of parts, but it wasn't as expensive as I expected. I know labor is the most expensive part, but if you can do it yourself that will save you a good amount of cash. I wish I had the ability to take on a project like that.
#18
Tech Contributor
I have found some rebuild kits online, there is A LOT of parts, but it wasn't as expensive as I expected. I know labor is the most expensive part, but if you can do it yourself that will save you a good amount of cash. I wish I had the ability to take on a project like that.
That said, I'd bookmarked these threads and websites when I was going through all of this. Maybe this will help someone.
For any S. Fla folks I have a great manual transmission rebuilder to recommend. Reasonable and good.
Seems you can buy all the parts you need here:
http://www.thegearbox.org/T56_corvette.html
and here's a thread on the topic, with pics of a DIY guy's homemade tools to do the job.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...uild-saga.html
#19
Problem is, I watched a guy rebuild a friend's transmission, unless you're an expert in it, its hard to tell what's good and what's bad unless it's really broken (like stripped or cracked). He showed me worn parts, and new...and I couldn't tell the difference. No way I could have told if a shift fork was bent.
That said, I'd bookmarked these threads and websites when I was going through all of this. Maybe this will help someone.
For any S. Fla folks I have a great manual transmission rebuilder to recommend. Reasonable and good.
Seems you can buy all the parts you need here:
http://www.thegearbox.org/T56_corvette.html
and here's a thread on the topic, with pics of a DIY guy's homemade tools to do the job.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...uild-saga.html
That said, I'd bookmarked these threads and websites when I was going through all of this. Maybe this will help someone.
For any S. Fla folks I have a great manual transmission rebuilder to recommend. Reasonable and good.
Seems you can buy all the parts you need here:
http://www.thegearbox.org/T56_corvette.html
and here's a thread on the topic, with pics of a DIY guy's homemade tools to do the job.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...uild-saga.html
Thats awesome man, thank you so much! My shop hooks me up with wholesale on parts, and cheaper labor. I'm curious to see how much the exact parts are from GM at a wholesale pricing
#20
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: Willow Springs IL
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That has nothing to do with the clutch. The clutch is in front (on the engine) the trans is in the back. The synchros are made of brass and normally do wear out. If the synchro is broken it will not really affect anything else in the trans. I had a bad synchro in my 03Z for over 4000 miles before I replaced it. It would still shift, but you'd have to bang it into gear. All other gears worked normally.