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Old 05-10-2011, 03:24 PM   #1
SEVINN
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Default Removing broken power seat

I've had this issue for a while now, but since I'm the only one that really drives my car anymore I haven't bothered to fix it. I think it's getting to be about time.

I have a 2005 with 1sb interior (3lt equivalent) so I have 'power' seats with memory. My driving position with the seat is pretty much all the way back and down which is where my issue comes in. I want to pull the seat and check all the wiring and swap out the memory module, but I just can't get to the nuts in the rear of the seat track. My seat won't move at all.

Any suggestions?
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Old 05-10-2011, 03:30 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SEVINN View Post
I've had this issue for a while now, but since I'm the only one that really drives my car anymore I haven't bothered to fix it. I think it's getting to be about time.

I have a 2005 with 1sb interior (3lt equivalent) so I have 'power' seats with memory. My driving position with the seat is pretty much all the way back and down which is where my issue comes in. I want to pull the seat and check all the wiring and swap out the memory module, but I just can't get to the nuts in the rear of the seat track. My seat won't move at all.

Any suggestions?
Have you checked to see if the connectors under the seat are indeed connected? Fuse?
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Old 05-10-2011, 03:37 PM   #3
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Have you checked to see if the connectors under the seat are indeed connected? Fuse?
I've checked the two under the front and they look fine. I gave the fuse a visual and it looked alright as well. When digging under the seat with my hand, I can feel another connector but I have no hope of unhooking it blindly in the position it is in.

Could there be a way to hotwire the seat to move forward or up?
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:31 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SEVINN View Post
I've checked the two under the front and they look fine. I gave the fuse a visual and it looked alright as well. When digging under the seat with my hand, I can feel another connector but I have no hope of unhooking it blindly in the position it is in.

Could there be a way to hotwire the seat to move forward or up?
A couple of theories. I have not tried these and if someone who knows the seat wiring could jump in here.

There is a really big connector, medium, and small one. The small one is for the heater and that goes under the skin near the rear.

I would first probe the connectors in the front to see which ones are ground and which ones positive. Usually, the ground is in the #1 connector position, but I would need to see a wiring diagram to tell for sure. Maybe applying a positive current to the wires which are not grounds would move the motor.

Another way would be via the switch connector on the side. Remove the seat recline lever. That won't be easy since access to the clip is on the bottom. You may be able to spring it free from the side of the lever.

Not sure which wire, but if you use a digital multi-meter, you can figure out which wire is negative ground and which one should have positive current. So you just apply positive to that wire. Of course, you don't want to try to connect a positive wire to the ground terminal.....big spark!
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Old 05-11-2011, 09:31 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mez View Post
A couple of theories. I have not tried these and if someone who knows the seat wiring could jump in here.

There is a really big connector, medium, and small one. The small one is for the heater and that goes under the skin near the rear.

I would first probe the connectors in the front to see which ones are ground and which ones positive. Usually, the ground is in the #1 connector position, but I would need to see a wiring diagram to tell for sure. Maybe applying a positive current to the wires which are not grounds would move the motor.

Another way would be via the switch connector on the side. Remove the seat recline lever. That won't be easy since access to the clip is on the bottom. You may be able to spring it free from the side of the lever.

Not sure which wire, but if you use a digital multi-meter, you can figure out which wire is negative ground and which one should have positive current. So you just apply positive to that wire. Of course, you don't want to try to connect a positive wire to the ground terminal.....big spark!
Thanks for the suggestions. Looks like I'll be messing with my multimeter tonight.
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Old 05-12-2011, 03:43 AM   #6
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I think the seat cover is held on with hog rings. it might be possible to remove the cover and the foam to get access to the seat motor.
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Old 05-12-2011, 07:59 AM   #7
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I think the seat cover is held on with hog rings. it might be possible to remove the cover and the foam to get access to the seat motor.
I was referring to the plastic side cover with the controls. Removing the side cover with the seat still installed would be a challenge because access to the screws would be tight.

The hog rings hold the leather cover on and are only accessible from the bottom so they would be impossible to get to when the seat is bolted down.
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Old 05-12-2011, 03:21 PM   #8
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I'll update this thread when I get a chance to look at it (hopefully tonight after I change my header gaskets to stop the ticking/chirping I'm hearing).

Thanks very much for the advice so far.
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Old 05-12-2011, 08:24 PM   #9
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Do you have access to a scanner that can read the body codes? Some of the codes will disable the seat manual controls. There are 3 motors in the seat adjuster. If the fault is affecting all 3 it has to be a problem with the power feed from the circuit breaker, a wiring or connector issue in or at the seat switch or a ground issue. Check the seat circuit breaker to see if it is open or closed. It is in the instrument panel fuse block. Also check the ground at G301 to see if it is OK.

The seat motors are reversible and the switches just reverse the polarity of the voltage being applied to the motors to get them change direction.

Bill
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Old 05-14-2011, 01:14 PM   #10
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ttt
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Old 05-15-2011, 01:22 AM   #11
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Thanks for the suggestions. Unfortunately I haven't been able to try anything yet because I somehow managed to cross thread a header bolt while removing it ( stage 8 locking bolts btw) so I have been waiting while trying to find an M8 1.25 tap in town as well as trying to come up with a solution for my bolt ( thinking of cutting a long bolt to make a temporary stud). Sorry for the delay. I will let you guys know what i fund with the seats.
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Old 09-01-2011, 10:31 PM   #12
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we are having a problem with our 05 seats also the only way we can get our seat to move is if we lean towards the center console taking our left cheek and weight completely off the seat.
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Old 07-21-2012, 01:12 AM   #13
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Any update on this? I am in the same situation and am going crazy searching for a way to reach the rear nuts. How do I send a positive current to try and manually move the seat forward? I removed the passenger seat to see if I can somehow remove the bottom of the seat and get to the nuts that way.
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:55 PM   #14
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This is just a follow-up message for others to reference at a future date as there is a solution that works.

I PM'd SEVINN (who began this thread) and asked him if he ever found a solution as I was in the same predicament. He was more than helpful and wish to say thanks to him again.

Below is what I did with the help from SEVINN:

1) Locate the drive motor.
The drive motor that moves the driver's seat forward and back is located near the very front of the bottom of the seat. It's a grey steel enclosure.

2) Disconnect the wiring harness.
A wiring harness exits the motor and two of the wires are the power leads (+ & -). The room to work with is very tight so you'll need to remove the two front nuts and prop something under the seat to give yourself a bit of space to access the wires. If you trace the wires from the motor to the next connector junction, you'll be able to disconnect it with bit of finagling (it takes some patience and several tries). Pull this wiring harness coming from the motor out front from underneath the seat so you'll be able to work it.

3) Prep the harness to actuate the seat motor.
Locate the red and black wires and note which slots in the connector house these wires. You'll then need to locate something conductive to insert into these pin slots on the connector - I used a couple of paper clips that I had straightened.

4) Get a power source.
Now you'll need to find a 12V power source to 'hot wire' the seat motor. I used the same thing that SEVINN used which was the battery backup in my house alarm system.

5) 'Hot wire' the motor.
I bent the paper clips in such a way that I could make them come in contact with the battery terminals. There will be a few sparks when you first touch them. If the seat doesn't move or it moves back further, switch the connections on the battery to reverse the direction of which way the motor is turning.

Now you should be able to access the rear nuts and pull the seat. I inspected the bottom of the seat an observed that some power leads which where connected up inside the seat into a terminal block were completely severed from the connector. I soldered the wires back together and wrapped the repair with electrical tape. Problem solved.

On a side note, my seat had always acted a but strange before the fix - sometimes working, sometimes not. The severed wire was likely not fully apart for a year or two and was making an intermittent connection so the seat only worked sporadically. I was never able to find out what was causing it until this happened. Now the seat is 100% functional and I'm very pleased.

Once again, thank to SEVINN for pointing me down the right path.
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gorilla1969 View Post
This is just a follow-up message for others to reference at a future date as there is a solution that works.

I PM'd SEVINN (who began this thread) and asked him if he ever found a solution as I was in the same predicament. He was more than helpful and wish to say thanks to him again.

Below is what I did with the help from SEVINN:

1) Locate the drive motor.
The drive motor that moves the driver's seat forward and back is located near the very front of the bottom of the seat. It's a grey steel enclosure.

2) Disconnect the wiring harness.
A wiring harness exits the motor and two of the wires are the power leads (+ & -). The room to work with is very tight so you'll need to remove the two front nuts and prop something under the seat to give yourself a bit of space to access the wires. If you trace the wires from the motor to the next connector junction, you'll be able to disconnect it with bit of finagling (it takes some patience and several tries). Pull this wiring harness coming from the motor out front from underneath the seat so you'll be able to work it.

3) Prep the harness to actuate the seat motor.
Locate the red and black wires and note which slots in the connector house these wires. You'll then need to locate something conductive to insert into these pin slots on the connector - I used a couple of paper clips that I had straightened.

4) Get a power source.
Now you'll need to find a 12V power source to 'hot wire' the seat motor. I used the same thing that SEVINN used which was the battery backup in my house alarm system.

5) 'Hot wire' the motor.
I bent the paper clips in such a way that I could make them come in contact with the battery terminals. There will be a few sparks when you first touch them. If the seat doesn't move or it moves back further, switch the connections on the battery to reverse the direction of which way the motor is turning.

Now you should be able to access the rear nuts and pull the seat. I inspected the bottom of the seat an observed that some power leads which where connected up inside the seat into a terminal block were completely severed from the connector. I soldered the wires back together and wrapped the repair with electrical tape. Problem solved.

On a side note, my seat had always acted a but strange before the fix - sometimes working, sometimes not. The severed wire was likely not fully apart for a year or two and was making an intermittent connection so the seat only worked sporadically. I was never able to find out what was causing it until this happened. Now the seat is 100% functional and I'm very pleased.

Once again, thank to SEVINN for pointing me down the right path.

Wow what a great writeup and I'm glad I could help.

To the others that replied asking for help before, I'm sorry that I didn't reply. Normally I get emails for thread responses and I simply didn't on this one, so sorry!
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Old 03-13-2013, 11:43 AM   #16
lambo63
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Default c6 stuck seat

1) unbolt front 15mm bolts
2) just remove the side controls to power seat
3) pull up front of seat pad and you can see where the seat is bolted to the seat frame 13 mm
4) don't forget to disconnect the seat before separating the seat from the frame.
5) the passenger seat has 2 cables attached to the seats remove these also - star-like allen wrench.
6) removing the rear bolts of the frame will loosen the seat tracks and you can now move the tracks forward.
7) hope this helps - took me awhile to figure it out.
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Old 07-18-2014, 04:16 PM   #17
Jim Davidson
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My '99 C5 thanks you for the info. Me as well. I've searched the web and your solution is the most concise I could find...
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Old 07-18-2014, 04:19 PM   #18
Jim Davidson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gorilla1969 View Post
This is just a follow-up message for others to reference at a future date as there is a solution that works.

I PM'd SEVINN (who began this thread) and asked him if he ever found a solution as I was in the same predicament. He was more than helpful and wish to say thanks to him again.

Below is what I did with the help from SEVINN:

1) Locate the drive motor.
The drive motor that moves the driver's seat forward and back is located near the very front of the bottom of the seat. It's a grey steel enclosure.

2) Disconnect the wiring harness.
A wiring harness exits the motor and two of the wires are the power leads (+ & -). The room to work with is very tight so you'll need to remove the two front nuts and prop something under the seat to give yourself a bit of space to access the wires. If you trace the wires from the motor to the next connector junction, you'll be able to disconnect it with bit of finagling (it takes some patience and several tries). Pull this wiring harness coming from the motor out front from underneath the seat so you'll be able to work it.

3) Prep the harness to actuate the seat motor.
Locate the red and black wires and note which slots in the connector house these wires. You'll then need to locate something conductive to insert into these pin slots on the connector - I used a couple of paper clips that I had straightened.

4) Get a power source.
Now you'll need to find a 12V power source to 'hot wire' the seat motor. I used the same thing that SEVINN used which was the battery backup in my house alarm system.

5) 'Hot wire' the motor.
I bent the paper clips in such a way that I could make them come in contact with the battery terminals. There will be a few sparks when you first touch them. If the seat doesn't move or it moves back further, switch the connections on the battery to reverse the direction of which way the motor is turning.

Now you should be able to access the rear nuts and pull the seat. I inspected the bottom of the seat an observed that some power leads which where connected up inside the seat into a terminal block were completely severed from the connector. I soldered the wires back together and wrapped the repair with electrical tape. Problem solved.

On a side note, my seat had always acted a but strange before the fix - sometimes working, sometimes not. The severed wire was likely not fully apart for a year or two and was making an intermittent connection so the seat only worked sporadically. I was never able to find out what was causing it until this happened. Now the seat is 100% functional and I'm very pleased.

Once again, thank to SEVINN for pointing me down the right path.
My '99 C5 thanks you for the info. Me as well. I've searched the web and your solution is the most concise I could find...
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Old 07-18-2014, 04:19 PM
 
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