JMcDon1007

I've been doing a ton of research on my dilemma, and although I've found a great deal of information, I still don't have all the answers I need. Since I'm a newbie, I thought I'd put this question out there for some of the experts!

I just bought a 6-Speed 2011 Torch Red GS and am contemplating whether or not to supercharge it or to go another route.

In regards to a s/c, I seem to like the e-Force from Edelbrock. I like the stock hood and since it fits underneath the hood, no change would be needed. Also, my local Chevy dealer (where I bought the car) will still offer a full 3/36 warranty on all parts. The downside is that they want $10,250 for the s/c and install. My questions are:

1. In terms of drivability, reliability, and power, what are the differences between, say, an A&A supercharger (Roots?) and an Eaton? This will be a daily driver and I want it to drive just like stock, offer great reliability, and give me a good boost in HP, but more importantly, torque, since it will be driven mostly around town or on 2-lane highways.

2. If I opt to go the route of no s/c, what process should I take to build up the right combination of parts so that everything works nicely together? How can I get the best bang-for-my-buck in regards to aftermarket performance parts? After doing tons of research in the forums, here's what I'm thinking:

a. A/R Headers
b. Borla or Corsa Exhaust (do these offer better flow than the stock NPP exhaust)
c. Throttle Body - although I have no idea what kind or anything about them.
d. CAI and SCT tune - Probably either the Vararam or Superbee combo kits.
e. FAST LSXR 102mm Intake Manifold
f. Obviously a good tune after each of these parts (or I may just buy all together)

If I were to do these things separately, should it be in that order? How much HP/Torque could I expect to gain with these items and a good tune? Would the reliability and drivability be better, worse, or equal to a s/c?

And finally, if I install a s/c with ~600 HP, are there any items that will wear prematurely like clutch, driveline, etc? I understand if I'm adding that much power, that I'll more than likely experience SOME premature wear; however, I am more interested in things that I will need to prematurely replace in the next 15-20,000 miles (other than rear tires) outside the normal wear/tear.

I know this is A LOT of questions, but I really need some guidance here and want to make sure I don't screw things up by either going the wrong route or just throwing parts on the car w/o knowing how they will affect one another. I want to DO THIS RIGHT!

Thanks to everyone who offers their opinion.

Take care,

-John

099blancoss

The last thing I would personally do is put a blower on a brand new car/engine not built for it .. BUT Edelbrock offers a $5,000 warranty if you keep to their tune and criteria... if anyone else offers the same I would look at them as well.... there are lots of guys without issue, it really comes down to usage and how much your going to beat on it.
If the car is never in boost it will last a very long time...LOL so the driver variable has a lot to do with it as well.

Its a gamble. GM doesn't just toss a blower on the LS3 and keep the boost low and call it good.

Others will argue and they have a point.. the issue is the compression and pump gas and the blower and the pistons and rings and bearing tolerances.... its not ideal but you can run a meth kit to combat some the issues.... and the biggest inter-cooler/heat extractor you can find.

In the end its a gamble with a car you just paid how much for?
I would look for the warranty. $5000 isn't much but it will rebuild the bottom end.. just the bottom end and that doesn't include labor to R+R the engine.

No one beats our deal on the E-Force, just sold one last week, but I will give the best advice I know before selling anything. AT the same time I just took a deposit on a 2010 GS as the engine blew from having a s/c on it.. the owner thinks it was lack of fuel that cause a lean condition.. I don't know for sure what cause the piston to shatter but the rod took out the block as well....


As far as more power your mod list for n/a is no where close to the power you would make with the s/c ... How much more power do you want to make?

0Steve@AandACorvette

I say supercharger, but then again, I'm a bit biased.

Ragtop 99

The E-force is going to make a lot of torque at low rpms. The E-force will let you know you have a blower if you mash the pedal at 2500 rpm. The A&A kit isn't going to be a thrill ride at 2500 rpm. The A&A kit will give you a lot of power in the upper midrange and top end. When you are on your 2 lane road, down shift into 2nd and the A&A kit make enough power to get your attention and keep it as you rip through 3rd and 4th gears.

You can get the A&A kit installed for $6500. IMO, you have to really value the low end to justify the extra coin for the E-force.

your "build it" mods will produce a nice bump in power, but nothing like the A&A kit.
A new cat back is not needed. NPP is a great exhaust.

JMcDon1007

Joel, Chris, and Steve,

Thanks for taking the time to respond. I really do appreciate the input and opinions.

The thought of a fatal engine failure scares the crap out of me; however, how likely is it if the e-force KIT (not sure what all is included) is installed and tuned PROPERLY??

Do you guys have any idea what my "build it" list would produce in terms of HP/TQ? All tied together with a good tune???? And I'm assuming it would be less of a risk in terms of engine failure than with a s/c, right?

Thanks again for the input.

old motorhead

Life's way too short to go too slow. If you can get a ride (or better yet, a drive) in each, do it. It's your call whether the extra coin for the p/d blower is worth it. It is to me. I've been Maggie blown on my daily driver GMC and my weekend ride (LS3 vette with Maggie TVS) for a couple of years now. The extra power available at any rpm is addictive. I'm a junkie. On my GMC, I can summon 10psi at half throttle at anything over 3000rpm. Driving anything without a Maggie on top feels like I'm dragging a parachute around.

AirBusPilot

Both.

Besides, half the parts you have listed on your "Build it up" sheet will be needed with the SC.

I've been down the road of putting forced induction on a stock LS2. It ran great, for awhile.

099blancoss

I do like the A+A kits and they have great success with them and I like the fact that if you stick to Edelbrocks criteria they offer a $5000 warranty... lots of guys run both kits without issues.. and unfortunately some have a problem... the fuel system wants to be the best it can be I think so you avoid a lean condition... you want to control intake temps as best you can .... keep it mild and conservative and chances are you will be fine.. but there is that slight chance you wont be... Head and cam is the same way.. the increased rpms put a strain on things as well but you don't have the opportunity for a meltdown the way you do with FI... FI tends to take out a lot when it gets unhappy....

I would run a meth kit and keep it conservative if you did it... Or for that $6500-$7000 I can build you a stroker and make the same power as the mild blower kit would make on a stock engine... but have it be worry free.... so you have options to consider and even though I am biased about things as well I like to present things as best I can

BadAV

I voted supercharger, but then I'm also biased.

I've had an MP112 Magnacharger on my Avalanche for about 50k trouble-free miles and 7 years now. I drove it stock, with the Magnacharger tune, for about 2 years and then started modding. I built the tranny, put a 2600 stall in, cammed it, put a 3.0" pulley on, and now tune it with HP Tuners. For the Avalanche, I wanted the extra boost off the line because it's a 6000 lb pig. It's a lot of fun to surprise the crap out of a kid in a last-gen Mustang GT.

For the Vette, I would think the low-end power would simply roast the tires off. Personally, with my A6 car, I would probably go with a slightly higher stall converter and the A&A kit. But then again, I'm not planning to do any power adders since it's my daily driver and I always have the Avalanche to take out for my instantaneous throttle response urges.

JMcDon1007

Hey Rodney! I like your thinking. I'm a Speed Junkie too! I get such a thrill every single time I put the pedal to the floor and crank through the gears. I also love working on cars. I need to find a buddy around the CLT area that knows their stuff so i can learn more from them. The poll is a dead heat right now, but only about 22 votes. I still can't decide which way I want to go. Hopefully more posts will come in with more info to consider. Thanks again for your input.

TRBOKEV

A & A Supercharger!

VPR LOL

Build it up and then just spray it when you get in a serious situation n/a > supercharger AND Nitrous >>>>>> Supercharger..this is not my opinion,this is reality

craftsman74066

Go with the supercharger and never look back.I have never had any problems.Many cars in the gm line have had factory s/c and made 100,000 miles.

3 Z06ZR1

You are certainly in the minority. Lots FI cars. Small % with problems.
Installed right and good tune equals NO problems!
You don't really need much from the "build-up sheet" either.
A&A kit, headers and tune? What build up? Build motors are more problem prone and are for the most part slower with poor drivibility.
Let alone the poor mileage. F/I all the way! This is not close!

3 Z06ZR1

AirBusPilot

I hope, for you sake, you are right.

I wasn't clear, when I was thinking "build up", I meant forged internals plus boost (and the above build up parts)

Harbinz51

Honestly a supercharger will cause more pedal mashing because of addiction to the power which in time will cause premature wear. Bolts on and nitrous will give you satisfaction in my opinion. Nitrous is only there when you turn on the switch where as the supercharger is always a load to the engine whether it is building boost or not. In comparison a 600rwhp supercharged corvette will get beat by a 570rwhp nitrous corvette just because of torque difference. I have used nitrous in a lot of my cars. My vote is headers, CAI, nitrous and a professional dyno tune. You ever spray a car once and you will be hooked at the hit it provides. Just my 2 cents

MPH101

21st century in Dallas Tx area is Lingenfelters son in law I think.
E-Force 599 hp installed $8450.00 had to call them twice and make sure they weren't hi. lol
http://21stcenturymusclecars.com/c6-packages.aspx

DSOMC6

No mention of twin turbo's?
Just throw in the APS kit and be done with it. No belt changes, pulley changes/retunes to increase power.

Whatever your choice for F/I, keep in mind you WILL have additional costs associated with F/I upgrades if you drive the vehicle consistently.
Increased power/tq, heat etc will eventually lead to some components failing and needing to be replaced. Many times this leads to upgrading the inferior component, cough...oem..cough.

Hopefully you have some mechanical skills to provide repairs or savings acct for labor costs? Most dealers refuse to work on a FI car (nor would I want/trust most to) so kiss the power train warranty goodbye and be sure you live in the vicinity of an experienced mechanic. Last year I had a mechanic at the Chevy dealer spot my booster pump and refuse to trace a simple electrical problem claiming I installed an after-market voltage regulator??? Anyone that claims a blower or tt set-up is trouble/failure free either doesn't own one or doesn’t drive it often. The tq is awesome but not cheap. Hang out in the F/I section for while and read-up. Lost of good info.

Drop in a 427 and then add FI later. You’ll then have your LS3 motor as a back-up.

JMcDon1007

Thanks for your input. Just to clarify, when I said "build it up", I meant JUST with the things I listed in the OP. I agree, cracking the motor open and swapping out internals could be even worse in regards to reliability than just an s/c.