I-LOX

So, I made a thread about the starter motor, but I think that is resolved. I figured taking a video of what I see would help a little more. I may have accidentally knocked something loose during the install. I hope it is that simple. I took a video with all the readouts but it is too long.(see below for list) The car is off jacks 100% I have check fluid levels and tire pressure. The car is ready to drive out the door...If only the starter would crank. When I press the ignition, there is no noise at all. All the lights in the car go off and the starter doesn't make a peep. So maybe it is the starter, or maybe i knocked something else loose that is effecting it.

- Theft Deterrent System Light is on(IDK if that is normal, I never noticed it before)
-Low Fuel (but my car is not low fuel)
-Service Fuel System
I have read up a bit on these 2 codes together the service fuel system and low fuel, but I didn't see anything that kept the car from starting.
-Oil Pressure XXX PSI
-Coolant Temp XXX *F
-Front/Rear Tire Pressure all read 0
-Average Fuel Econ XX.X MPH
-Instant Fuel Econ XX MPG
-Range XXX Miles

All other items not listed were normal readouts

rpmextra

erase codes and try it

rpmextra

and your wire wasn't plug in the connector of the starter on the other post....did you find the missing plug?

I-LOX

From your picture it looks like you got 4 grounds and 1 plug? I did get that plug into the black socket area. I was not sure about the tan area though. it looked like a second connector spot but i wasn't 100% sure but I don't see it on yours so I think I am good. 5 wires total it looks like?

Is there a simple way to reset the car and clear the codes? Or do I have to do it with a code reader?

I-LOX

Would the location of the ground have any effect? I mean, if I put a wire on the top screw/bolt instead of the bottom? or vise verse?

Tennis_pr0

Did you check all connections at the starter? Constant supply and signal wire?

rpmextra

Not sure where you see 4 grounds? you should have 2 big 12v leads (positive) and you ignition switch plug in. the starter solenoid is grounded to the starter, and starter is grounded to the engine.

I-LOX

How do I erase the above codes?

rpmextra

Scanner. I always used one. The reason I'm saying it. I had a no start after my slave cylinder failure and picked up some codes. Erased them and everything was perfect. You may be able to do it with the console, I've never done it that way, I have a snap on scanner and hptuners so never used to in dash read method, never needed to.

Joe_G

That's what happens when your battery is about dead. Have you charged your battery?

Joe_G

Can't clear codes from a c6 without a scanner of some sort. Only c5's allow clearing codes from the DIC.

My memory is foggy James...is there a big ground that attaches to the back of the passenger head?

OP if I'm correct, did you hook that up? If not that'll cause this problem too I believe.

rpmextra

Good to know Joe.
No the bolt at the back of the head is just the harness clamp. He said heads, but also said headers. I'm wondering if he just had a type o and meant no heads but headers only.
It's kinda be just something with the starter

Joe_G

If he installed headers almost sounds like the wire from the solenoid to the battery is pinched and is dead shorting. Lights going off is what is leading me to dead battery or pinched starter main lead. Or the starter signal wire being off the solenoid but seems like it's on in that picture.

In the old days our starters would get dead spots and it would do this, we used to carry hammers (and a lot of tools, I still carry tools...lol) and we'd rap the starter with the hammer a few times and it'd start. I don't think this is his problem.

I-LOX

Thanks all for the posts.

I did mean headers, not heads. Kooks 1-7/8 long tube headers.

So update: my battery was showing about 13-14. I had it off the entire time while working and only had the battery on for maybe 30 minutes trying to figure out what's up and trying to start the car. I wouldn't think that would have drained the battery completely.
I got a code reader (pics below) but it keeps giving me an error reading. I have tried the car in run mode and accessories mode. Same error with both scenarios

.
I took the code reader out and battery dropped to just above 8. First time I have really worked on cars, does the reader draw THAT much energy? Or possible I was just getting an incorrect reading before?

schpenxel

What is the DIC displaying? A bunch of xxxx's still?

Joe_G

Your battery is dead. Charge it and hopefully you'll be ok. 8 volts is really low, that sounds like a bad cell or two. Regardless, charge up the battery and see if you are good to go.

Scanner doesn't take any juice but it won't read at 8 volts and that low a voltage will cause all those codes. After you get a good battery in there, or get yours charged, those codes should reset on their own after you drive.

I-LOX

Yea, still all the same X's that were originally posted.

I-LOX

Okay, maybe the 13 was an inaccurate reading to start off and took a moment to register. I'll try charging it up and see what happens.

rpmextra

joe is right. that sounds like the battery is dead or he has the postive lead on ground....any sparks when you reconnected the battery.

joe the above pics are my car to show him as reference. since i am doing my slave as you know, it was great timing to get the op some pics

schpenxel

That's going to be the best place to start regardless. If the ECM doesn't have enough power to turn on, this is pretty much what would happen.