Grinding into 2nd gear... but maybe it isn't the synchro?
10-04-2011, 04:34 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Grinding into 2nd gear... but maybe it isn't the synchro?
So I've been altogether avoiding 2nd gear lately because no matter what I seem to do, if I'm shifting at high RPMs it always grinds, clutch on the floor. Until now I surmised that it was the synchro, as from what I understand they seem to be **** in the T56.
But as of the past few days I've made some discoveries that lead me to believe it may not be the synchro.
1st, my father drove my car with me riding shotgun the other day, and he had no problem shifting at high revs. Keep in mind that I'm a fairly 'lithe' guy... I weigh only 170 lbs and have small arms. He decided that I wasn't pulling hard enough into 2nd, and I think he may be right. But I've had my car long enough to know how to drive it, and until recently 1st to 2nd transition was cake for me. Could something have happened to the linkage that it would suddenly require more force to change gear?
2nd discovery is that when the car is stationary, clutch is down and I move the shifter to 1st and then rip it into 2nd while the car isn't moving, the DIC makes some beeps and the speedometer sweeps from 0 to 200 mph and then back. Also during this experiment I encountered that sometimes, the shifter would get 'caught' in between 1st and second and it requires that I apply great pulling force to clear the gate.
What are your thoughts?
But as of the past few days I've made some discoveries that lead me to believe it may not be the synchro.
1st, my father drove my car with me riding shotgun the other day, and he had no problem shifting at high revs. Keep in mind that I'm a fairly 'lithe' guy... I weigh only 170 lbs and have small arms. He decided that I wasn't pulling hard enough into 2nd, and I think he may be right. But I've had my car long enough to know how to drive it, and until recently 1st to 2nd transition was cake for me. Could something have happened to the linkage that it would suddenly require more force to change gear?
2nd discovery is that when the car is stationary, clutch is down and I move the shifter to 1st and then rip it into 2nd while the car isn't moving, the DIC makes some beeps and the speedometer sweeps from 0 to 200 mph and then back. Also during this experiment I encountered that sometimes, the shifter would get 'caught' in between 1st and second and it requires that I apply great pulling force to clear the gate.
What are your thoughts?
10-04-2011, 06:18 PM
#2
Instructor
Member Since: Mar 2011
Location: Watertown SD
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I have read somewhere on the forum about shifter alignment. I also remember seeing instructions on how to do it. I just can't seem to find it right now. Hopefully if you do a search you can find it.
10-04-2011, 08:36 PM
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
So you think it's the shifter alignment? I'll look into it. Would that explain the electronic weirdness?
10-04-2011, 09:21 PM
#4
Instructor
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The electronic part has me baffled, but the shifter alignment might be a good starting point. I'm still fairly new to these cars, I am used to a 69 prostreet nova with no hydraulic slave cylinder and the good 'ol clutch fork. Good luck!
05-23-2012, 09:26 PM
#5
Instructor
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I hope you find out what it is. I just got my 08 back from the dealer after 5 weeks with the same problem. They rebuilt the trans and it is the same as before! I notice that when pulling 2nd it doesn't feel like it's going completely into 2nd!
05-24-2012, 12:01 AM
#7
Burning Brakes
2 things I found in my journey on this situation..
1. The bushings as mentioned helped, but...
Look at the back of the shifter box where the shaft comes out and the linkage rod connects. Look into the back of the box where it protrudes.. There are O-rings that seal it or help it glide whichever.. That particular bushing or O-ring as I call it was washed out. It is unnoticable lookin in there. You need to pull the box out(easy) and inspect it. I found mine was wasted and replaced the box and moved to and MGW with aluminum bushings. WELLA no issues. Its cheap to buy and takes like 5 minutes to see the issue. Take a look. The bushings are low hanging fruit, but its probably the one mentioned. Mine slopped around and caused slop or play but was hard to detect. Make sure you pin the box when removing and installing the shifter box/linkge rod too, thats aligned for a reason.
1. The bushings as mentioned helped, but...
Look at the back of the shifter box where the shaft comes out and the linkage rod connects. Look into the back of the box where it protrudes.. There are O-rings that seal it or help it glide whichever.. That particular bushing or O-ring as I call it was washed out. It is unnoticable lookin in there. You need to pull the box out(easy) and inspect it. I found mine was wasted and replaced the box and moved to and MGW with aluminum bushings. WELLA no issues. Its cheap to buy and takes like 5 minutes to see the issue. Take a look. The bushings are low hanging fruit, but its probably the one mentioned. Mine slopped around and caused slop or play but was hard to detect. Make sure you pin the box when removing and installing the shifter box/linkge rod too, thats aligned for a reason.
09-18-2012, 10:39 AM
#8
Instructor
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2 things I found in my journey on this situation..
1. The bushings as mentioned helped, but...
Look at the back of the shifter box where the shaft comes out and the linkage rod connects. Look into the back of the box where it protrudes.. There are O-rings that seal it or help it glide whichever.. That particular bushing or O-ring as I call it was washed out. It is unnoticable lookin in there. You need to pull the box out(easy) and inspect it. I found mine was wasted and replaced the box and moved to and MGW with aluminum bushings. WELLA no issues. Its cheap to buy and takes like 5 minutes to see the issue. Take a look. The bushings are low hanging fruit, but its probably the one mentioned. Mine slopped around and caused slop or play but was hard to detect. Make sure you pin the box when removing and installing the shifter box/linkge rod too, thats aligned for a reason.
1. The bushings as mentioned helped, but...
Look at the back of the shifter box where the shaft comes out and the linkage rod connects. Look into the back of the box where it protrudes.. There are O-rings that seal it or help it glide whichever.. That particular bushing or O-ring as I call it was washed out. It is unnoticable lookin in there. You need to pull the box out(easy) and inspect it. I found mine was wasted and replaced the box and moved to and MGW with aluminum bushings. WELLA no issues. Its cheap to buy and takes like 5 minutes to see the issue. Take a look. The bushings are low hanging fruit, but its probably the one mentioned. Mine slopped around and caused slop or play but was hard to detect. Make sure you pin the box when removing and installing the shifter box/linkge rod too, thats aligned for a reason.
So you bought a brand new box with the o-ring from the dealer and just replaced it? Did the new box come with new shifter bushings as well? Thanks in advance, BART
