Oil Smell and Smoke From Breather
01-25-2015, 12:31 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Oil Smell and Smoke From Breather
Today I was finally able to get my car out after getting the over heating problem solved, and noticed a strong smell of oil. I opened the hood and there is oil vapor coming from the oil breather and is causing the smell. It has done it from time to time since the build was complete but it smelled like oil if you sat still for more than 30 seconds today and never stopped.
I was told to get rid of the breather and put a normal oil cap on and add a catch can. I took the oil cap from a friends car to test and see if it was better and it would not fit. The opening is much smaller than the factory LS3 cap. There seems to be a adapter on the stock oil cap and makes the opening much smaller. The adapter has a black line running from it to the dry sump tank, so I don't know what the line is for.
Has anyone else had this problem, and how did you fix it? The car has a A&A S/C on it, but the black line doesn't touch any part of the S/C. I also hate that because of the breather I can't use my engine cover on the right side. Does anyone know what the line is for and also any suggestions if I should buy a catch can and from what vendor? Thanks and sorry for probably a newb question.
I was told to get rid of the breather and put a normal oil cap on and add a catch can. I took the oil cap from a friends car to test and see if it was better and it would not fit. The opening is much smaller than the factory LS3 cap. There seems to be a adapter on the stock oil cap and makes the opening much smaller. The adapter has a black line running from it to the dry sump tank, so I don't know what the line is for.
Has anyone else had this problem, and how did you fix it? The car has a A&A S/C on it, but the black line doesn't touch any part of the S/C. I also hate that because of the breather I can't use my engine cover on the right side. Does anyone know what the line is for and also any suggestions if I should buy a catch can and from what vendor? Thanks and sorry for probably a newb question.
01-25-2015, 01:42 AM
#2
Melting Slicks
Stinky dispencer...
The black line is likely the breather line but with a supercharger the breather I connect it to the supercharger air inlet cause there's vacuum there to absorb the gasses and burn them the higher the rpms the more vacuum this way you don't pressurize as in the case of capping gasses inside.
01-25-2015, 10:32 AM
#4
Yes you want a vacuum on the block to pull the oil gases out of the block. This will keep the oil much cleaner.
Two sides to the PVC system,
One is the dirty side, and that is the loop that normal goes from the block top plate, to the intake after the TB.
Look at the braid lines where the are connected. Th bottom port is the vent out of the block and the port on top is the vacuum port into the intake manifold
The clean side is the the line that goes from the valve covers to the intake in front of the TB.
Top braided line that goes from the valve cover to the port on the TB.
Also to point out, both the block plate, and the valve cover are both baffled so they are not just spraying raw oil into the PVC lines, so its the light oil that gets past the baffles that you are trying to trap/catch.
During most of the time, at less than WOT, the intake vacuum is inside the intake manifold, and it's this line that is intercepted with a catch can. At WOT and not super charged, the vacuum is now in front of the TB, and that is what the clean side used for vacuum instead.
On the clean side (wet sump), if you are trying to catch any oil here, than that is the valve cover type with the hose, so the line off the valve cover is capped, and the line off the new fill tank cover is piped to the TB intake port instead.
The fact that you are running a supercharger (guessing centrifugal), will need to add a check valve on the dirty side lines, that way when the manifold goes to boost (in front of the TB as well), your not pushing direct pressure back out of the manifold port into the block. When the block pressure get higher than the intake pressure (piston blow by), then the block PVC pressure can be pushed into the manifold pressure past the check valves back into the manifold.
As for the clean side, since under WOT you are going to be pressurizing both the before and after the TB (clean side will not longer have a vacuum to work at WOT), you can delete the tube in to the TB (cap on the port), and instead pipe the Valve cover clean side pipe into the another port on the catch can on the dirty side to be draw into the after TB port instead (will only need one check valve off the intake manifold port before it hits the catch can.) If you want to add in a dry sump tank vent catch, then that pipe can be run to the catch can as well.
Two sides to the PVC system,
One is the dirty side, and that is the loop that normal goes from the block top plate, to the intake after the TB.
Look at the braid lines where the are connected. Th bottom port is the vent out of the block and the port on top is the vacuum port into the intake manifold
The clean side is the the line that goes from the valve covers to the intake in front of the TB.
Top braided line that goes from the valve cover to the port on the TB.
Also to point out, both the block plate, and the valve cover are both baffled so they are not just spraying raw oil into the PVC lines, so its the light oil that gets past the baffles that you are trying to trap/catch.
During most of the time, at less than WOT, the intake vacuum is inside the intake manifold, and it's this line that is intercepted with a catch can. At WOT and not super charged, the vacuum is now in front of the TB, and that is what the clean side used for vacuum instead.
On the clean side (wet sump), if you are trying to catch any oil here, than that is the valve cover type with the hose, so the line off the valve cover is capped, and the line off the new fill tank cover is piped to the TB intake port instead.
The fact that you are running a supercharger (guessing centrifugal), will need to add a check valve on the dirty side lines, that way when the manifold goes to boost (in front of the TB as well), your not pushing direct pressure back out of the manifold port into the block. When the block pressure get higher than the intake pressure (piston blow by), then the block PVC pressure can be pushed into the manifold pressure past the check valves back into the manifold.
As for the clean side, since under WOT you are going to be pressurizing both the before and after the TB (clean side will not longer have a vacuum to work at WOT), you can delete the tube in to the TB (cap on the port), and instead pipe the Valve cover clean side pipe into the another port on the catch can on the dirty side to be draw into the after TB port instead (will only need one check valve off the intake manifold port before it hits the catch can.) If you want to add in a dry sump tank vent catch, then that pipe can be run to the catch can as well.
Last edited by Dano523; 01-25-2015 at 11:02 AM.
01-25-2015, 09:07 PM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks for the information! But while at the wanna go fast event today I started talking to Matt from FSP who also tunes my car. The car will be going there to be fixed and run a retune on it this week.