Best mod for return on $$ - Dyno overlay - stock, + headers, + cam, + FAST, + Heads
#21
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#22
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
I'm still breaking in my new gears I received from Bear Essentials Racing and so far, so good. No whining, no chatter, no strange behavior-they seem to work flawlessly.
I've never had gears before so I don't know if the whining people always talk about is something that happens right away, or if it develops over time. I have about 550 city miles on my new setup and BER recommended a full 1200 mile break in so that's what I'm going to do. I went with Amsoil severe gear 75w90 fluid as well.
I've never had gears before so I don't know if the whining people always talk about is something that happens right away, or if it develops over time. I have about 550 city miles on my new setup and BER recommended a full 1200 mile break in so that's what I'm going to do. I went with Amsoil severe gear 75w90 fluid as well.
#24
Will work for HPDE time.
Bill Curlee is right (as usual) - the suit cases of tools needed is a pricey proposition (like $4k) and the know how to use them doesn't come with them. There are many places, including forum vendors, who can do the job.
You can exchange the rear end in your driveway - you buy one and return your core. It's a day job even the first time, not so hard on jackstands, and if you have a manual car, no need for a tune or anything. Just bolt in, break in, and go.
By the way. And I don't want to turn this into a debate, please...but I've had both 3.90's and 4.10's. My strong recommendation is to go with 4.10's. It's just more of what you are buying gears for. The 3.90's are only needed if you plan to use nitrous or go FI and thus need the higher 140 or so trap speeds they allow in the 1/4 before shifting to 5th.
And frankly...even that argument isn't that valid as you can buy taller slicks if you need them, negating the need for 3.90's, and the shift to 5th if you need to make one doesn't really matter that much as it's at the end of the track. Drag racers will tell you ET is decided in the first 330 or so...you want that acceleration curve to be as steep as possible, as the last 660 is just going for a ride. 4.10's are surprisingly more effective in the 60 foot, I didn't believe it until I tried it myself.
You can exchange the rear end in your driveway - you buy one and return your core. It's a day job even the first time, not so hard on jackstands, and if you have a manual car, no need for a tune or anything. Just bolt in, break in, and go.
By the way. And I don't want to turn this into a debate, please...but I've had both 3.90's and 4.10's. My strong recommendation is to go with 4.10's. It's just more of what you are buying gears for. The 3.90's are only needed if you plan to use nitrous or go FI and thus need the higher 140 or so trap speeds they allow in the 1/4 before shifting to 5th.
And frankly...even that argument isn't that valid as you can buy taller slicks if you need them, negating the need for 3.90's, and the shift to 5th if you need to make one doesn't really matter that much as it's at the end of the track. Drag racers will tell you ET is decided in the first 330 or so...you want that acceleration curve to be as steep as possible, as the last 660 is just going for a ride. 4.10's are surprisingly more effective in the 60 foot, I didn't believe it until I tried it myself.
I would love to do this, but it just doesn't add up as well for the HPDE guys. Unfortunately, a car can't be great at all things.
#25
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
Biggest issue I have with running a 28" tall tire is that I like my car lowered and wouldn't want to mess with the suspension every time I went to the track. My 26" tall tire almost scrubs the fender well so I can imagine a 28" tall would cause some fitment issues.
#26
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I'm still breaking in my new gears I received from Bear Essentials Racing and so far, so good. No whining, no chatter, no strange behavior-they seem to work flawlessly.
I've never had gears before so I don't know if the whining people always talk about is something that happens right away, or if it develops over time. I have about 550 city miles on my new setup and BER recommended a full 1200 mile break in so that's what I'm going to do. I went with Amsoil severe gear 75w90 fluid as well.
I've never had gears before so I don't know if the whining people always talk about is something that happens right away, or if it develops over time. I have about 550 city miles on my new setup and BER recommended a full 1200 mile break in so that's what I'm going to do. I went with Amsoil severe gear 75w90 fluid as well.
#27
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
Me either Dennis but that's what the recommended so I'll stick to it. I mean I'm halfway through and its only been a week so it's not that big of a deal. I have a 74 mile round trip commute to work so it's making short work of the breakin period.
#28
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Great information as always buddy, thanks for sharing!
I have always said that 90% of the Vette guys I know would be more than happy with just gears and a tune...it's amazing how much better if feels on the street...especially since we can never even come close to the car's capabilities driving on the street.
If I could just find a good bone stock Z06, gears and a tune would be more than enough to keep me happy forever more...if not, a GS will get the same treatment.
I have always said that 90% of the Vette guys I know would be more than happy with just gears and a tune...it's amazing how much better if feels on the street...especially since we can never even come close to the car's capabilities driving on the street.
If I could just find a good bone stock Z06, gears and a tune would be more than enough to keep me happy forever more...if not, a GS will get the same treatment.
#29
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[QUOTE=Craigster05;1580707650]...especially since we can never even come close to the car's capabilities driving on the street.
/QUOTE]
Guys in Houston would certainly disagree with that
/QUOTE]
Guys in Houston would certainly disagree with that
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#31
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Great information as always buddy, thanks for sharing!
I have always said that 90% of the Vette guys I know would be more than happy with just gears and a tune...it's amazing how much better if feels on the street...especially since we can never even come close to the car's capabilities driving on the street.
If I could just find a good bone stock Z06, gears and a tune would be more than enough to keep me happy forever more...if not, a GS will get the same treatment.
I have always said that 90% of the Vette guys I know would be more than happy with just gears and a tune...it's amazing how much better if feels on the street...especially since we can never even come close to the car's capabilities driving on the street.
If I could just find a good bone stock Z06, gears and a tune would be more than enough to keep me happy forever more...if not, a GS will get the same treatment.
But we know you wouldn't...600 rwhp is 600 rwhp and once you sample the fruit...
I have to say we are getting old buddy. I just can't see my way clear to Mexico runs.
So I should probably caveat my comments that most mods only matter on the street, or in Mexico. But the problem is, in either place, Nitrous is the atomic bomb brought to the gun fight. Can't beat that unless the bottle goes empty (which by the way got me in the money round more than once).
#32
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
We had a ZL1 at the track last weekend and the best it ran was 13.6@108
I know a lot had to do with the driver but damn, that's weak. I spoke with the guy briefly and he said he got the car last week. It was in full street trim/street tires, etc
I know a lot had to do with the driver but damn, that's weak. I spoke with the guy briefly and he said he got the car last week. It was in full street trim/street tires, etc
#33
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How many times have we seen guys show up with blown or otherwise modded to kingdom come cars on street tires just embarrass themselves.
The GTR with AWD and launch control makes anybody look like a hero. Personally I enjoy the challenge of making a high horsepower car go fast. But nobody could make a living drag racing a manual car.
For track duty, the first mod and BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK without question is a set of drag radials or road course tires. The proper foot-gear makes all the difference in the world at either venue. With street tires you cannot optimize the stock capabilities of the Vette at either venue, you're leaving a ton on the table.
And to forgo the next comment that will be coming...I have seen several Corvette rears blow at the track. All but two on guys with street tires wheel hopping. The two that blew on drag racers were experienced racers (Retrotech and me) who had 300+ runs on their diff. I had 301 to be exact.
I would never race on street tires. You are putting your drivetrain at risk...and yourself, as the lack of traction makes the track a dangerous place.
#34
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
Camaro ZL1, not a Corvette ZR1. It was a black one with an older guy driving it. The car had loads of attention but crappy timeslips.
#35
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It's ridiculous.
I also have to give my obligatory "I still have never seen a stock 11 second Z06" comment. People just can't drive to save their life.
#36
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
Ya I have to agree with you there. There are very few fast street cars at BMP on any given night. Most run in the mid to high 12s and the occasional mid 11s. It's rare to see one go in the 10s
#37
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#38
Will work for HPDE time.
I ran a GenIV Viper SRT10 at Speed World one night. He was salivating over the ***-whipping he was going to give my bolt-on C6. I went 12.20@116 to his 14.40@101. He almost crossed lanes twice. Didn't run again after that. It can happen to anyone, any car.
#39
I took care of the "I still have never seen a stock 11 second Z06" comment right there and then.
It's been on ever since
Awesome info and thread, Joe !!!
Last edited by FNBADAZ06; 05-02-2012 at 03:07 PM.
#40
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
Are drag radials considered 'stock' though? Doesn't the Z06 fast list have a specific section for bone stock and bone stock other than tires?