JCtx

Hey gang, just wanted to post this contribution for those in my situation. I'm not a fan of runflats. I initially was, but didn't know tire is ruined after 10 miles (20 at the most), and it collapses after 50. Then good luck finding a tire shop that handles low-profile runflats outside a major city, if you're traveling. And even then, nobody carries those tires anyway, so you'd be stranded for a while until one arrives (took a week when I had to replace a rear one with 200 miles on the clock). And finally, you can count on some wheel damage every time you r&r a tire (I did, even in the best shop), so as soon as G2s are done, I'm done with runflats as well (Michelin Pilot Super Sports are next). And roadside assistance? Other than possibly not ruining the tire, same inconveniences. Plus you can count on at least a ruined chin spoiler on GS/Z06/ZR1s, AND a scraped bumper at the very least. Not an option for me when I can patch the tire myself .

Solution? A tire-plug kit and a jack kit. And this applies to both runflats and non-runflats. The jack kit is essential if you want to run non-runflats, and almost necessary with runflats. The trick to avoid any tire damage is NOT TO RUN the tire below 20 psi folks . As soon as you get the TPMS warning, start monitoring the pressure, and look for a convenient place to perform the patching job (a gas station is perfect, and you don't have to use your compressor). If close to 20 psi, you can always just air up the tire to get to the next town. This is obviously more important if you don't have runflats, but you don't want to ruin you runflat either. Anyway, here's what you need to be able to temporarily fix your own flats:

First, a jack kit. I used the one I bought for my M3 here: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...catalogid=4462

It's designed to use the rectangular BMW lifting pad many owners buy here, but since it's too bulky for a permanent installation IMO, I only bought one... along with 4 of the round ones, which are permanently attached to the car, but easily removable with the plastic prying tool I carry (see first pic, above the jacking pad). In addition, the rectangular ones look ugly since the slot on our frame is crooked, PLUS they can hit anywhere, due to being much taller.

The jack kit weighs exactly 11.8 lbs, and includes everything else you need: a long wrench that doubles as a torque wrench set at 90 ft/lbs, ratchet handle, a wheel chock, and a pair of gloves. Oh, I'd discard the chalk immediately, since it makes a mess. And you'd also have to buy the appropriate short, 6-point socket, since BMW uses a 17mm. I bought a 19mm one, that fits my Gorilla lugnut set. And if you use your seat a bit more forward than all the way back (like I do), the jack crams at the bottom of the seat (you'd figure out in what position ). If you use your seat all the way to the back, the jack kit fits vertically next to your seatback and rear panel. It's be visible when you open the door, but only you can see it. And it should be safe in an accident, since I don't think it can slide between seat and panel, but that'd be your call. I prefer at the bottom of the seat for obvious reasons (lower center of gravity, and super safe).

Here are the pictures of the pad and jack (2), round jack pad installed, and both pads (right click on 'properties', and at the very top is the name of the file. The part number for each jacking pad is at the end):







NOTE: REMOVE the plastic pin pictured here and discard it folks. You'd have some serious trouble removing that thing if you forget .






Next, and equally important, is my radial tire patch kit of choice: the Stop'n Go. It doesn't use any glue, so it's not messy, and doesn't dry out. I used it for the first time in 7 years on my M3, and brought me home more than 300 miles away, at 85 mph sustained speeds. And all with the piece of mind and protection of TPMS and the stock full-size tire. The first time I got the TPMS light about 20 miles later, so had to repatch the tire again. Problem? I didn't ream the hole enough, so learn from my mistake. You need to ream that hole until you feel no real resistance from the ridial cords, so they don't sever the mushroom plug. Worked like a charm the second time. In fact, I left the plug 2 months until my new tires arrived, with no loss of air at all. Here's the kit, along with thicker gloves (jack kit includes some as well) and tire pressure gauge (I also put here the plastic trim tool pictured with the jack kit):




Next is the 3rd most important item: something to inflate the tire with. I chose a mini compressor from Griot's Garage. You don't want to skimp on this item folks, since no air means you're stranded. Remember the rear tires take quite a bit of volume, so a cheapo compressor can burn up before you're done. And it fits perfectly inside the left cubbie:




And now a picture with the tire repair kit on top of the compressor, along with a microfiber rag wrapped around a spray can of Plexus, which is an excellent product for removing crap from your paint, windshield, clear-bra, etc. I use it a lot on my motorcycle. I also put a commercial (black) trash bag that can be used as a mat (among other things), a Leatherman Wave tool (to remove nail, screw, or whatever punctured your tire), the rectangular jack pad, cargo net, and a gallon ziplock bag I carry when picking up fast food . And I still have room to spare on the cubbie, for some more tools. Oh, and I have enough duct tape rolled on a wood rod (cut to size) to fix almost anything, stored inside the tire patch kit:




Hope this helps gang. Have a good one.

LS1LT1

Nice kit/set up, thanks for the info and photos.

Random84

+

StKnoWhere

Nice write-up for a very complete and clean solution ELP_JC!

LS1LT1

Yeah those "tools" work well also ...I always carry them along with a plug/compressor kit when I'm on 'non runflats' just in case.

ChevyDave

i tried to locate the 'mini compressor from Griot's Garage' and they dont list it. it does sound very good and i would be interested in knowing the model or part number that you got from them.

thanks in advance

Joe_G

Fantastic write up!

I have the ContiComfort Kit compressor and supposedly sensor safe fix a flat from Tirerack. $79.

http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/detail.jsp?ID=38


Seems like a quality device, fits behind the waterfall in my Vert. Luckily I haven't had to use it but I have used my plug kit. I have the cheapo Walmart plug kit and a pair a gloves and dykes.

My friend the mechanic told me the same thing re: plugs, you have to ream the hole well. He told me to use my battery drill with a bit a little slightly smaller than the plug to ream it out (I made it home to fix it) and that plug has worked for over year now.

And you are right about those large BMW pads...I had two on my car, now only one as it hit on something or the other. I just use my jack without one these days (I swap tires a lot for racing) and lift the car a side at a time to swap tires. Works fine for me.

That said I like your round pads, where did you get those?

JCtx

Smart man . Some folks prefer to travel hours on a tow truck, and wait sometimes days for an overnighted tire (at his expense), rather than being on your way in less than an hour. No wonder that guy is in my ignore list .

You know what, you're right man. Bought mine a few years back. Checked, and this is all I found: http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...ortby=ourPicks
No case anymore, but looks a little bigger than mine, which is not a bad thing. It might fit in the cubbie too. Ask for dimensions, or just get something similar. And if you could post your results, it'd help others in their search .

Hey Joe, happy to help. But first, I wouldn't buy that compressor if you cannot use it without the 'goop'. That's pretty much what my M3 had, and believe me, you'd need a new sensor. I'd leave the 'goop' as a last resort, but they're not that effective, especially if weather is hot; it just blows right out (ask any BMW owner). And forget anything more than 50 mph, even in cool temperatures. I'd treat that kit like a runflat: it'd get you to your destination if less than 50 miles away, and at less than 55 mph. Oh, and it'd be much more effective if jacking up the car, and placing the puncture at the bottom, rather than driving the car and hope the goop passes thru the puncture. If you can use the compressor normally, without turning the goop thing 90º, I'd definitely buy it. Looks pretty nice, and compact. You can buy the plug kit, and leave the goop as a last resort. In fact, I need to buy a can of that myself, as a last resort too (like if you have to get to your destination quickly, and it's not that far away).

Anyway, the place that I linked for the jack kit, sells those jacking pads too. And you can also try Bavauto.com, or any other BMW parts dealer. The part number for the lifting pads are these: ROUND=51711960752, and RECTANGULAR=51718268885. They cost the same. Avoid my mistake, and order 4 round and 1 rectangular . Hope this helps folks.


Oh, and forgot to say before if you drive with the seat all the way back, I'd put the jack behind (and under) the passenger seat, if possible. All it takes is a little forward and a bit higher up, which most women like anyway. Or just a little more forward and all the way to the floor. If my car was auto, I'd be all the way to the back, but with a clutch, I like to be able to depress the pedal to the stop (although I rarely do that while driving), for better pedal control. So that little bit forward (I have my seat all the way to the floor) adjustment was enough to slip the jack behind my seat. That's better, since the passenger seat has limited foot space; a problem for male passengers. And that POS of accordion plastic wouldn't hold even a small dog from slamming on the fuses without the seatbelt on (one more reason to demand it ). Hope everybody had a great weekend .

ChevyDave

the compressor you found...
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...+compressor.do

Dimensions are...
http://www.viaircorp.com/OffRoad/Schematics/85P_dd.pdf

i measured and it will fit great, no problems. 9.13" x 3.19" x 5.63"

mike100

I had purchased this kit years back for my Jeep tire repairs and found that it all fit into a handy 6" square bag. Top quality tools cheap:
http://www.safetyseal.com/store/offroad.htm

I have found that the C4 jack kit works pretty well for lifting the C6- you can get them from junkyards pretty cheap I would think. I don't worry about a pad- the jacks lift the metal frame pretty well and I don't care if it scratches the steel frame bottom, but your bimmer jack pad looks pretty nice as a no-slip function.

ChevyEFI

Just think, some people get much of that jack kit free with purchase of a new Impala.

JCtx

Guess this solution is not for you two then . But seriously, none of those options would be safe for you or the car, since it can slip off the jack, ruining your rocker panels in the process. Then landing on the brakes, your foot, or worse. Without a safe way to lift the car, it's better to drive the runcraps to death, or just call roadside assistance.

By the way, most folks use the rectangular jacking pads to prevent rocker damage by lifts or floor jacks, but they were primarily designed for roadside jacking safety; the vulnerable edges get damaged easily by lifts and floor jacks if not positioned carefully. The round pads were specifically designed for floor jacks and lifts, and that's why I leave them permanently in place. But they're easily removable if needed.

franman69

Good stuff. Thanks for the write up.

boraxman

Good posting OP/

C7/Z06 Man

My emergency jack, cost $5, has puck as part of jack so it can't slip off the frame when jacking and fits in the rear chubby. Jack is high quality & made in Canada.

JoesC5

I carry an aluminum jack from a late 90's E-class Mercedes. It weighs just under 3 pounds and it's collapsed height is 2-3/4". One problem though, it's a little too long to fit in the rear cubby hole. I carry a 6" X 8" X 18" duffel bag that also has all my other supplies, and the bag is secured by elastic cords to the rear cargo mesh's connecting points so it can't fly around at 1.04g's.

Joe_G

If you are not going to carry a spare, why are you guys carrying a jack? I guess it's easier to plug a tire off the car, but it can be done on the car, and in any case, if I'm in an unsafe place to plug the tire, I'm calling AAA anyway.

I actually have a small scissor jack from Harbor Freight but I don't carry it around...maybe I would if you guys have a reason I haven't thought of so my question is genuine.

BTW if I traveled cross country like Hoxxoh I'd carry one of my GTO spares as a spare for use in remote locations.

HOXXOH

Joe, don't bother with the spare.

I carried a GTO spare, jack, and tools on one of my shorter road trips (2500 miles) and recognized the hassle dealing with luggage space. Now I only carry a small compressor, credit cards, cell phone, and cash.

The compressor will only be used, if I need to add air to get to a place for repairs. If the leak is greater than the compressor will handle, then the cell phone summons help or cash gets me a ride to a place where the cell phone works and then the CC's take over for the larger costs.

With 99K currently showing and about 45K of that farther than 150 miles from home, I've only had one incident in the 50K+ miles while running non-runflats. That's where I hit a rock and blew out the sidewall (not repairable) in the mountains, 25 miles from the closest town. I only lost 3 hours of travel time, but got to meet some really nice people in exchange for the delay. I've had much, much longer delays at airports, surrounded by people constantly b!tching.

Dead alternators have left me stranded twice and each with days, not simply hours, of delays. I don't carry one of those either.

gsflyer2011

Hey that looks great! Canada ey? and $5!!. Much better than $145 for a BMW one. Where do you get one of those?

C7/Z06 Man

I picked the jack up at a local junkyard for $5 then I added/welded on a large flat washer and a piece of shaped square stock to make the puck which rotates. The puck fits the frame well & the jack works like a champ.

PS: This thing will lift the whole side of the car into the air if you want it to or not paying attention to just how high your going.