Oil in the intake/head ports continues after catch can install-what could it be?
05-08-2012, 01:44 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
Oil in the intake/head ports continues after catch can install-what could it be?
Hey CF,
I installed a RX performance catch can very soon after I bought my car but my car still has a good amount of oil present in the intake, and also in the heads.
The can never has a lot of fluid in it, even after having it on the car for over 10k miles. At best, I've drained out maybe a few teaspoons total but my intake and heads remain very oily and I'm not really sure why. I understand a catch can won't catch every last drop, but these pictures are alarming.
I installed a ported intake manifold and found a good amount of oil in the old intake manifold and also the intake ports on the heads. I wiped everything down and installed the new intake manifold.
About a month (1,200 miles or so) later, I pulled the intake manifold in preparation to drop the drivetrain for a clutch swap and this is what I found.
What gives?? Why is there so much oil getting by the catch can and hanging out in my heads. The car runs great, does not smoke at all and I only see about 1/4-1/2qt of oil used in 5,000 miles and I run my car very hard at the track on a regular basis.
Can a catch can 'go bad'?
Is this amount of oil WITH a catch can installed normal? The slight haze looks ok, but the puddling looks bad.
At the risk of pissing off an EPA advocate here, can the PCV system be removed completed and the risk of recirculating oily air be eliminated? If so, how?
Any thoughts as to why I see so much oil after a very short amount of time/miles?
Any help is appreciated.
Front of the throttle body looks ok
I wiped down 2 of the ports to show the difference.
I installed a RX performance catch can very soon after I bought my car but my car still has a good amount of oil present in the intake, and also in the heads.
The can never has a lot of fluid in it, even after having it on the car for over 10k miles. At best, I've drained out maybe a few teaspoons total but my intake and heads remain very oily and I'm not really sure why. I understand a catch can won't catch every last drop, but these pictures are alarming.
I installed a ported intake manifold and found a good amount of oil in the old intake manifold and also the intake ports on the heads. I wiped everything down and installed the new intake manifold.
About a month (1,200 miles or so) later, I pulled the intake manifold in preparation to drop the drivetrain for a clutch swap and this is what I found.
What gives?? Why is there so much oil getting by the catch can and hanging out in my heads. The car runs great, does not smoke at all and I only see about 1/4-1/2qt of oil used in 5,000 miles and I run my car very hard at the track on a regular basis.
Can a catch can 'go bad'?
Is this amount of oil WITH a catch can installed normal? The slight haze looks ok, but the puddling looks bad.
At the risk of pissing off an EPA advocate here, can the PCV system be removed completed and the risk of recirculating oily air be eliminated? If so, how?
Any thoughts as to why I see so much oil after a very short amount of time/miles?
Any help is appreciated.
Front of the throttle body looks ok
I wiped down 2 of the ports to show the difference.
05-08-2012, 01:52 PM
#2
Tech Contributor
Looks similar to mine when I took intake off and I have a catch can. I do empty about 1/2 a can with each oil change.
You double sure you didn't hook the lines up backwards?
A better question is why do you have your intake off again?
You double sure you didn't hook the lines up backwards?
A better question is why do you have your intake off again?
05-08-2012, 01:54 PM
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Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
The lines were run by Tracy@RX. I don't think I could have switched them but anything is possible I suppose. The line in the top middle of the can runs to the lower nipple, the line from the side of the can runs to the intake manifold. There is a check valve on the line that runs to the intake manifold. It broke shortly after I bought the can so I gorilla glue'd it back on. I check the operation of the valve with my mouth and it seems to be working fine.
Those pictures were from when I did the clutch swap Joe. I was just thinking about it today and saw someone mention removal of the PCV system in general and that intrigued me. I don't like having puddles of oil in the heads like that.
Those pictures were from when I did the clutch swap Joe. I was just thinking about it today and saw someone mention removal of the PCV system in general and that intrigued me. I don't like having puddles of oil in the heads like that.
05-08-2012, 01:56 PM
#4
Not all catch cans are created equal. They need to be designed properly. It also doesn't help if it's bolted to the hot engine, and close to the PCV valve. There s an active thread on how to make it more effective; look for related threads in the last few days, and it should be there. One guy isolated it from the engine, and enlarged the inner tube to increase catch can efficiency.
Finally, you can buy a 'vented' catch can, which instead of going back to the intake, it vents to the atmosphere via a filter screwed on top of the can. Don't remember who makes it, but it's one of the big sellers. I would do that as a last resort man; a lot of those fumes would end up being sucked by the HVAC. Good luck.
Finally, you can buy a 'vented' catch can, which instead of going back to the intake, it vents to the atmosphere via a filter screwed on top of the can. Don't remember who makes it, but it's one of the big sellers. I would do that as a last resort man; a lot of those fumes would end up being sucked by the HVAC. Good luck.
Last edited by JCtx; 05-08-2012 at 01:58 PM.
05-08-2012, 01:59 PM
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
I bought this can from Tracy@RX performance and he's supposed to be the demigod of catch cans so I felt good in my purchase. He installed it as well so I assume everything was done as good as possible.
05-08-2012, 02:01 PM
#6
Searched for that thread for you man; here it is:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...post1580758398
Hope it helps. And yes, check hoses are not reversed. Good luck.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...post1580758398
Hope it helps. And yes, check hoses are not reversed. Good luck.
05-08-2012, 02:30 PM
#7
Team Owner
Justin, you need to see the system I have on my 99....also if you want a free opinion on what you may have going on shoot me a PM and I will give you a number
05-08-2012, 06:11 PM
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Not all catch cans are created equal. They need to be designed properly. It also doesn't help if it's bolted to the hot engine, and close to the PCV valve. There s an active thread on how to make it more effective; look for related threads in the last few days, and it should be there. One guy isolated it from the engine, and enlarged the inner tube to increase catch can efficiency.
Finally, you can buy a 'vented' catch can, which instead of going back to the intake, it vents to the atmosphere via a filter screwed on top of the can. Don't remember who makes it, but it's one of the big sellers. I would do that as a last resort man; a lot of those fumes would end up being sucked by the HVAC. Good luck.
Finally, you can buy a 'vented' catch can, which instead of going back to the intake, it vents to the atmosphere via a filter screwed on top of the can. Don't remember who makes it, but it's one of the big sellers. I would do that as a last resort man; a lot of those fumes would end up being sucked by the HVAC. Good luck.
No catch can will ever catch 100% of the atomized oil in the PCV gases I guess. We are seeing lot of claims from these CC manufacturers as to their designs but no quantifiable results or numbers (I guess like to CAI ads, "estimated 50 horsepower gain" like they got dynos between their eye sockets or something
That's why I am leaving mine alone. Plus I will need the money when I am replacing my tires..
05-08-2012, 06:27 PM
#11
Track Junky
Don't say that Justin, I just bought a custom dual valve setup from Rx...
I would say if it catches anything at all, you are doing good. I have heard that most vapor can enter at high rpm no load conditions, such as downshifting and letting the engine slow the car down. I may be wrong but could be a contributor at the track - cross the 1/4 line and lift the throttle. The engine and brakes slow you down, or do you shift to neutral?
I would say if it catches anything at all, you are doing good. I have heard that most vapor can enter at high rpm no load conditions, such as downshifting and letting the engine slow the car down. I may be wrong but could be a contributor at the track - cross the 1/4 line and lift the throttle. The engine and brakes slow you down, or do you shift to neutral?
05-08-2012, 07:03 PM
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
I don't expect it to catch all the film, but pools of oil is a big concern. If that much oil is just hanging out in my heads after only 1200 miles, what is happening for the next 3800 until I change the oil...
Glen, I bought the can about 8 months ago. Have they released a newer/better one?
Here are some pics of the setup. Like I said earlier, the line in the middle of the can goes to the nipple on the valley cover, the line with the check valve goes to the intake manifold. Does anyone know if that's correct?
Glen, I bought the can about 8 months ago. Have they released a newer/better one?
Here are some pics of the setup. Like I said earlier, the line in the middle of the can goes to the nipple on the valley cover, the line with the check valve goes to the intake manifold. Does anyone know if that's correct?
05-08-2012, 07:04 PM
#14
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
Don't say that Justin, I just bought a custom dual valve setup from Rx...
I would say if it catches anything at all, you are doing good. I have heard that most vapor can enter at high rpm no load conditions, such as downshifting and letting the engine slow the car down. I may be wrong but could be a contributor at the track - cross the 1/4 line and lift the throttle. The engine and brakes slow you down, or do you shift to neutral?
I would say if it catches anything at all, you are doing good. I have heard that most vapor can enter at high rpm no load conditions, such as downshifting and letting the engine slow the car down. I may be wrong but could be a contributor at the track - cross the 1/4 line and lift the throttle. The engine and brakes slow you down, or do you shift to neutral?
05-08-2012, 07:09 PM
#15
Track Junky
Yeah, that seems a bit much. Especially if your catch can isn't collecting a whole lot of oil. My old LS2 would capture 2-3 ounces every gas tank of street driving, about the same on the track. That was a lot more that I initially expected. After 4-5k miles my intake runners were similar but I wasnt too worried because I thought that's where all the remaining vapor would collect due to any potential "step" between intake manifold and head. Really, a couple drops isnt too
Much compared to what I have seen in other cars.
Much compared to what I have seen in other cars.
05-08-2012, 07:10 PM
#16
Tech Contributor
Not all catch cans are created equal. They need to be designed properly. It also doesn't help if it's bolted to the hot engine, and close to the PCV valve. There s an active thread on how to make it more effective; look for related threads in the last few days, and it should be there. One guy isolated it from the engine, and enlarged the inner tube to increase catch can efficiency.
Finally, you can buy a 'vented' catch can, which instead of going back to the intake, it vents to the atmosphere via a filter screwed on top of the can. Don't remember who makes it, but it's one of the big sellers. I would do that as a last resort man; a lot of those fumes would end up being sucked by the HVAC. Good luck.
Finally, you can buy a 'vented' catch can, which instead of going back to the intake, it vents to the atmosphere via a filter screwed on top of the can. Don't remember who makes it, but it's one of the big sellers. I would do that as a last resort man; a lot of those fumes would end up being sucked by the HVAC. Good luck.
I had one of those for a while...my oil got really dirty super fast, and it smelled like blowby in the cabin when the AC was on.
It's fine for a race car...but a street car needs a vacuum on the crankcase to get out the combustion byproducts. Ever torn a modern engine apart with pcv and modern oil? They are nice and clean. When I was a kid tearing apart engines they were full of gunk due to the lousy road draft systems cars had back then.
I wouldn't (and don't) personally fret about the oil that gets past my catch can.
Your can is different than mine...
I have the valley nipple hooked to the top of the can and the port on the side of my can goes to the intake manifold.
05-08-2012, 07:23 PM
#19
Safety Car
I don't expect it to catch all the film, but pools of oil is a big concern. If that much oil is just hanging out in my heads after only 1200 miles, what is happening for the next 3800 until I change the oil...
Glen, I bought the can about 8 months ago. Have they released a newer/better one?
Here are some pics of the setup. Like I said earlier, the line in the middle of the can goes to the nipple on the valley cover, the line with the check valve goes to the intake manifold. Does anyone know if that's correct?
Glen, I bought the can about 8 months ago. Have they released a newer/better one?
Here are some pics of the setup. Like I said earlier, the line in the middle of the can goes to the nipple on the valley cover, the line with the check valve goes to the intake manifold. Does anyone know if that's correct?
05-08-2012, 07:35 PM
#20
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
Do you have any other suggestions as to who sells a better designed can? I know 99blancoSS is supposed to be releasing one shortly.