JCtx

At least on my '12 TR6060 it's the opposite. I cannot engage the reverse gate with the ignition off, so the solenoid is energized to allow reverse, and DEACTIVATED after 3 mph, which is the default position of the solenoid. And it only makes sense if you think about it: why have it energized 90+% of the time the engine is running, rather than the remaining 10-%? And from the safety standpoint, I MUCH prefer not being able to engage reverse if solenoid malfunctions, than accidentally engaging R at highway speeds .

I stand corrected then, but it's not really needed IMO. But glad it has it due to the 3-mph 'allowance' I didn't know we had. However, a synchronizer is useless unless at least one shaft is moving, so you have to engage R before the input shaft stops. Now that we know there's a synchro in there, there's no need to shift to a forward gear first (to avoid a slight 'crunch') any longer, although for some weird reason, some transmissions still shift easier after doing just that. Will try it on mine without the forward gear first and see what happens .

Streetk14

I'd say you're on the money, JC. The solenoid is usually blocking the reverse gate, and is energized when whatever module controls it decides you're allowed to enter reverse. Probably the BCM, but I'm not sure.

Zoxxo

ECM controls both the reverse lockout and the 1st->4th skip shift.

And, to be accurate, to allow you to shift into reverse the circuit is pulled to ground, not "energized".

Z//

Streetk14

Whether it's being supplied a switched power or ground to complete the circuit, I'd still refer to the solenoid as being "energized" when it allows you to enter reverse. But yeah, systems like that usually use a switched ground for control.

I-LOX

So, I understand this was posted a long time ago, but hoping I could get a little closure on the thread. Did you ever find out what exactly this was? I am having the same issue. After a night of "hard driving" (roll racing) I cannot get the car into reverse. 6 speed manual, C6 Z06. I can get past the lockout pin, but cannot push the shifter forward and get the car into reverse. I read some good ideas, the double clutching and such, so I will give this a try. However, I am also experiencing a "Whine" in all gears 1-6. it is RPM dependent as when I increase in RPM the whine increases. Last I checked....I did not install a supercharger. Did you also experience any sound changes in the car?
Would disconnecting the battery and connecting it back in reset the electronics in the car possibly and help with the alignment? I don't know much about electrical or mechanical so sorry if that sounds retarded.

goss1320

Hey sorry to bother you on this months later but in searching my issue I found your response here. So I had the exact thing happen to mine after a hard weekend on it. Performed shifter alignment and still can't push up into reverse. I was wondering what you found the issue to be ? Mine has 20k miles and had been babied up to that point. Please let me know what you found out it would be greatly appreciated ! The whining is weird too just not sure what the hell happened

I-LOX

I took mine to a guy that my buddy knows well. Works on all my buddies drift cars.
The guy working on my car said that the reverse synchro somehow was stuck to the reverse gear in an offset from the gears (which wouldn't let me get the gear in place) also, the part that slides over the synchro that normally slows the gear down(a cone shape) was not fitting to the syncro. It was gliding over the syncro but not slowing anything. Granted you should be stopped when going into reverse, that is what we assumed the cause of the whining sound.
I did a small upgrade in parts and swapped out most of the brass with carbon composit. Stronger and slightly lighter. Not needed but "mine as well" since the tranny was opened up anyway, and I also plan on getting a bit more prower from the car so I figured I'd beef up the trany a little. We have no idea how it happened. It shouldn't have happened. I myself had about 25k miles driving spirited but never tracked or dragged. Freeway pulls from time to time, but nothing the car shouldn't be able to handle. We are both still stumped on how it happened.
About $3,000 if I remember, plus or minus a few hundred. The upgraded parts were maybe like 200-300. The main cost is dropping the rearend and pulling the tranny out.

You could go to any reputable shop and ask them to pull out the tranny and replace the reverse syncro. (Or at least point them in that direction)

My car was/is a 2007 C6 Z06.
A few thousand miles later on daily commutes, no problems. Still do spirited driving from time to time when traffic dies down. No issues.

I-LOX

ALSO, one additional note, I had the mechance bypass the lockout for 2ed and 3rd at low rpm. He was in the tranny anyway, so it made sense. Makes driving much nicer. Not having to rev high to get into second, or bogging down in 4th at low rmp. Idk about you, but it just fits my driving style a little better for when I like shifting.

goss1320

Wow thanks so much! I am going to get it pulled out and get working on it. I have no idea how we got so lucky ! Lol sarcasm. Your response helped confirm a lot of stuff and was super helpful! Thanks again !!

I-LOX

Haha right....
Glad to help when I can. Even if it's bad news. But at least it is news.

dr.stephan

WOW...can;t believe this thread is ALIVE after all these years.

So he is the crazy ending to this story. My car was under extended warranty at the time, so the dealer claimed "it was the transmission." So, they got me a brand spanking new unit from GM, swapped it in, and turned out NOT to be the trans. They go on to tell me it's in fact the clutch. So, they then replaced the clutch and that solved the problem.

I didn't get to upset about it because I got a new transmission out of the deal for a $50 deductible.

Moto One

Here are some of the causes for this problem.
1. Bad pilot bearing.


2. Clutch not disengaging fully, bad hydraulics, or failure of disk/pressure plate.

3. Trans internals going bad (and this is what I found in my trans);

Bad revers gear spacer.


Bad reverse gear c-clip.


Bad reverse synchro c-clip. (the one upper right)


All this cause the reverse gear to slid back on the shaft just enough so that the synchro would not engage. There have been other threads on this problem where posters have thought that it was the shift fork not moving far enough back to engage the synchro. There fix was to put a spacer on the shaft, and grind the fork for spacing to slid back farther. Not a good fix.

Mark

Turbo-Geist

I'm having a similar issue. The transmission is a TR6060 from a 2008 C6Z. It was having a hard time shifting into 1st and reverse and the other shifts seemed very slow. I figured the stock clutch master cylinder was getting weak and installed a Tick master cylinder.

The new master cylinder seemed to cure all of the issues. Very easy to go into 1st and reverse while stopped and the other shifts were now lightning fast. I went to a half mile test event and on the shift to 5th at WOT it felt like it was in gear but nothing engaged and the car hit the rev limiter. No grinding, just felt like something was blocking it from fully engaging. During normal and moderately spirited driving it would still drop into 5th.

Prior to the next run I needed to back up and it would not engage reverse. It would click into gear, but as soon as the clutch started to engage, the shifter would pop out of gear. If you tried to hold it in reverse, it would just grind and not make any difference.

Troubleshooting:
-I've checked to make sure that the reverse lock-out solenoid is functioning properly and it works.

-With the car on jackstands, you can put it in reverse and let out on the clutch and the rear wheels will turn normally.

-If you put the emergency brake on with the wheels off the ground, it will pop out of reverse as soon as the clutch starts to engage.

-1st - 4th gears work fine and will go into gear during high rpm shifts. As mentioned, 5th gear will not engage at high rpm. Once the RPMs fall, it will drop into gear.


Any ideas on what will need to be repaired?

Turbo-Geist

I figured more people would have experienced this type of failure. I'm planning to take it apart anyway, but it would have been nice to know what I'm up against.

I think it's going to be along the lines of what Moto One posted above with the bad internals. Thanks, Mark.

Turbo-Geist

Any idea what causes these parts to go bad Mark?