1quickTXVette

I have an 08 SC coupe, the other day it overheated on me which we determined to be a stuck thermostat so swapped the stock out for a 160 which kept it from over heating but ran hot up to 210-220 which is in operating range but not normal for a 160 and its cold out today. We looked and realized the fan isn't coming on at all even when we tried it manually on tuning software. My buddy's guess is that the tStat went out a day or 2 before I noticed but the fan was keeping it cooled down but due to running continuously it has burned something up. When I posted the overheating issue alot of you said to check the fan relay because it is a common problem.


My question is, do you think it sounds correct that that is what had happened? Also, can I pick up the relay from the dealership? Is it an easy swap or will I need to take things apart to get to it? What is the cost of the part? Where is it located in the engine bay?

Thanks guys! Don't let me down, I need my car!

EVRose

Before the relay I would check the fan connector near the radiator. Unplug it and see if it looks burnt or melted. That happens a lot on these cars. If that's the case I don't know what the solution has been. Either try to get a replacement connector or eliminate it completely and hard wire the two ends together.

1quickTXVette

Oh alright Ill check that after work! I've been reading other threads and it seems that you can't get these connectors by themselves you have to order the whole unit to get it. From my interpretation of what people said, it seems that if the ground (middle pin) is burnt, you just remove it and ground it to the car itself. If its a +, I'm not sure of the fix. I'm just hoping its easy and can fix it tonight! its my DD!!!

what do you mean remove it completely and hardwire the two ends together? I'm not the strongest in electical work.

dennis50nj

he means remove connector. solder together or twist with wirecaps

1quickTXVette

Okay correct me if I am wrong, 3 wires connect to both the male and female end of the connector. By putting them together do you just mean cut the wires from the male and female connectors and just put the wires together directly?

subfloor@centurytrans

I had pretty much the same thing happen to me last summer and rather than the thermostat going out (which I originally thought was the problem) it was actually the fan relay partially melting which prevented it from coming on.

If you're lucky (as I was) only one of the contacts partially melted the surrounding plastic so I was able to slightly bend it a bit to have it make good contact and it's been fine ever since. The more common problem is for the the entire connector to melt pretty badly which will require you to either getting a new connector or just bypassing it altogether and solder the wires together.

EVRose

Yes. Soldering them would be best but you can use wire nuts and wrap it with electrical tape.

1quickTXVette

Great! Thanks guys, I'm hoping for the best! Hopefully its just a simple connection issue that we can put the wires together and call it a day!

What exactly is the purpose of the connector? If it works just fine by having the wires directly connected then why wasn't this done at the factory by using one set of wires, why use a connector?

superchevy32

I don't want to steal your thread by any means but I'm having the same problem, my fan worked fine before I put a we motor in, now it won't work. Something's you can try, which I already tried,
is check the ground wires above the starter on the passenger side
Take some jumper cables an stick them to the positive an negative inside the plug that plugs into that big silver box(fan speed controller) an make sure the fan still runs, it will run full blast.

Now my problem is I can ground the green wire coming through the wiring harness an the fan will kick on for just a second, I test my speed controller on another car an it works, snap on scanner says computer is telling fan to turn on, I have deleted the fan plug an wired solid

superchevy32

Anybody have a wiring schematic for the fans?

wstaab

You can get just the connectors from Caspers: http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...oducts_id=1003
They have both the male and the female side.
Common problem on the C6.

EVRose

NICE WEB SITE!!! Bookmarked.

superchevy32

Honestly I would rather mine be hard wired just because those plugs have know problems. No schematic to the fan I guess???????

1quickTXVette

We looked at mine after work today and it was actually the male ground connector. We pulled those out and added a male and female spade to the wires then electrical taped it up and wahlah fan began working again! The car seems to be doing fine and doesn't seem to have hurt anything on the overheat. I'll just keep an eye on coolant level to be sure. I was going to just hard wire it but my buddy had said if the fan was to overheat again it is always going to melt the weakest point so he wanted to keep this being the weakest point because it is a very simple fix if it happened again. By us using new a new spade connector for the ground wire hard wire it will remain the weakest point. He didnt want the weakest point to end up in a portion of the wire tucked away and hard to locate and work on.

But I'm sooooooo pumped that my car is up and running again and back on her feet! Feels good having it back!

Gering

Car runs great with no problems.

glenB

Wire caps this ain't a house ...

JUIC3D

210-220 isn't an overheat so I wouldn't sweat it. In fact, I wish my car would run that hot in the winter. These motors make more power when they have some heat in them but my 160* stat keeps the motor around 175 in the winter time. I'm just too lazy to swap out the t-stat for a hotter one.

for not being a bigger issue

1quickTXVette

Normally people wouldn't use a 160 in the dead of winter but I live in Texas so it never exactly gets arctic temperatures haha. Although, had the first cold day of winter yesterday which snowed and the high is 32 today. If it wasn't for it being cold yesterday, the car would've still overheated due to the fan being out. But in the cold yesterday, when you get to moving the air provides the same effect as the fan. But I'm so glad that's all it was and didn't have to swap a fan!

5 Liter Eater

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...d-working.html

HOXXOH

Glad you're back up and running again. The first time that happened to me, I replaced the whole connector with the GM repair part. Strangely though, the GM replacement has smaller gauge wires than the original. So when it happened again, I just did the bypass on the one wire by clipping that wire out and using a bullet connector. That allows the ability to retain the disconnect for fan/radiator removal without cutting a hardwired connection.