Torque Tube Replacement
01-18-2013, 11:27 PM
#21
Former Vendor
Member Since: Nov 2005
Location: Ossining New York
Posts: 11,792
Received 243 Likes
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183 Posts
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
The bearings don't fail......
Gentlemen, I appreciate all the inputs and posts. It's made my new situation a little less annoying. I just finished installing a Centerforce clutch/flywheel, GM slave assembly, and new pilot bearing because the dealer told me that the throwout bearing was bad and it needed a new clutch (that solid advice was after 2 days of them having no clue what the noise was so I'm guessing it was just a shotgun approach 
). Now that it's all done and back together, the noise is still there...albeit just a bit different now. Our local club mechanic at Flatout Motorworx has told me that he's thinking it's the torque tube bearings.
What are my options as far as that goes? Is there a rebuild kit? Where can I just buy the bearings to press in? I'm all for getting this done, but with a track even next weekend, I need to get on it ASAP. Dealer quoted me $1400 for a new torque tube.
Finally, what is the impact of driving with worn/damaged torque tube bearings?
). Now that it's all done and back together, the noise is still there...albeit just a bit different now. Our local club mechanic at Flatout Motorworx has told me that he's thinking it's the torque tube bearings.What are my options as far as that goes? Is there a rebuild kit? Where can I just buy the bearings to press in? I'm all for getting this done, but with a track even next weekend, I need to get on it ASAP. Dealer quoted me $1400 for a new torque tube.
Finally, what is the impact of driving with worn/damaged torque tube bearings?
The rubber guibos blow up.... and if you're in there for the guibos, change the shaft too.
You can tell if you remove the shaft and inspect the plastic ring in the middle of the shaft.
If it's melted or abraded on one side, then it means the tube bent under load and the ring contacted the outer tube.
If that happens, it's no good. With the tube removed, you can look down the torque tube with a flashlight and see the rub
mark where it touched. Housings usually don't go bad, but the guts do.
Remove the rubber inspection plate in the front of the tube and make sure the 10mm allen bolt is TIGHT clamping the shaft spline.
Lastly, the rear yoke that the flexplate attaches to is multiple pieces. It's got a male/female spline like a pinion and yoke of a
regular rear end..... The nut loosens up and the spline wobbles and makes noise.
Dis-assembly, inspection, cleaning, lock-tite, and more Foot Pounds than the factory used does the trick every time.
Also use lock-tite on the splines as well as the nut.
DON'T GO IN THERE without fixing/replacing all the stuff above.
The second time SUCKS 4 times more than the first time!
Chuck CoW
01-19-2013, 10:33 AM
#22
I have not been told of any diagnostics that help. My first two episodes caused a "rattle" about midship...the technician at the dealer seemed stumped as well. I don't get a warm, fuzzy feeling with this dealership!!! They called GM engineers and were told what to do. It's unfortunate that it is very difficult to find a true mechanic now a days. Most are parts swappers
I have a good friend that is a 'certified' GM mechan, excuse me, technican. As long as he can plug the car into a computer and it tells him what to replace, he can do it. But, even with that, he is ham-fisted, and not very gentle with customers cars. Perhaps it's because he is paid 'per the job'. A flat rate. And is trying to push through as many jobs/day as he can. But, true mechanic's with diagnostic skills are rare.
04-17-2013, 08:34 PM
#24
In my opinion the bearings don't fail..... UNLESS they are run with a bent tube for a while.
The rubber guibos blow up.... and if you're in there for the guibos, change the shaft too.
You can tell if you remove the shaft and inspect the plastic ring in the middle of the shaft.
If it's melted or abraded on one side, then it means the tube bent under load and the ring contacted the outer tube.
If that happens, it's no good. With the tube removed, you can look down the torque tube with a flashlight and see the rub
mark where it touched. Housings usually don't go bad, but the guts do.
Remove the rubber inspection plate in the front of the tube and make sure the 10mm allen bolt is TIGHT clamping the shaft spline.
Lastly, the rear yoke that the flexplate attaches to is multiple pieces. It's got a male/female spline like a pinion and yoke of a
regular rear end..... The nut loosens up and the spline wobbles and makes noise.
Dis-assembly, inspection, cleaning, lock-tite, and more Foot Pounds than the factory used does the trick every time.
Also use lock-tite on the splines as well as the nut.
DON'T GO IN THERE without fixing/replacing all the stuff above.
The second time SUCKS 4 times more than the first time!
Chuck CoW
The rubber guibos blow up.... and if you're in there for the guibos, change the shaft too.
You can tell if you remove the shaft and inspect the plastic ring in the middle of the shaft.
If it's melted or abraded on one side, then it means the tube bent under load and the ring contacted the outer tube.
If that happens, it's no good. With the tube removed, you can look down the torque tube with a flashlight and see the rub
mark where it touched. Housings usually don't go bad, but the guts do.
Remove the rubber inspection plate in the front of the tube and make sure the 10mm allen bolt is TIGHT clamping the shaft spline.
Lastly, the rear yoke that the flexplate attaches to is multiple pieces. It's got a male/female spline like a pinion and yoke of a
regular rear end..... The nut loosens up and the spline wobbles and makes noise.
Dis-assembly, inspection, cleaning, lock-tite, and more Foot Pounds than the factory used does the trick every time.
Also use lock-tite on the splines as well as the nut.
DON'T GO IN THERE without fixing/replacing all the stuff above.
The second time SUCKS 4 times more than the first time!
Chuck CoW
Thank you sir,
Jeff
04-17-2013, 10:34 PM
#25
Former Vendor
Member Since: Nov 2005
Location: Ossining New York
Posts: 11,792
Received 243 Likes
on
183 Posts
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
When it started happening to my customers....
we found the tube or guibos (or both) were at fault.
Too much labor to "guess".... Fix it and forget it.
Thanks
Chuck CoW
05-17-2013, 01:48 PM
#26
Well, the second complete torque tube has been replaced, under warranty. I asked the service manager what was causing the problem. His response..."I wish I knew...GM engineers wish they knew". I asked if he knew the definition of insanity! He looked stumped so I said..it's doing the SAME thing over and over again, expecting different results! Then I told him to make me an appointment in 3 months and left.
07-01-2015, 11:16 AM
#27
Heel & Toe
I recently purchased an 07 vert with 88,000 miles. I'm starting to get a vibration/rumbling sound at 3500-3700 rpm in gear and neutral. I'm assuming I'm starting to have some torque tube bushing/bearing issues. I don't have the facilities for that work myself. After reading these threads and all the issues, does anyone know any place I could trust to do that kind of work in the northeast Florida/Jacksonville area. Thanks for all the good info and advice already posted.
07-01-2015, 09:44 PM
#28
Instructor
I have a 2011 Grand Sport 'vert, auto, bought new in July '11, 13,000 miles. I decided in Oct '11 to buy engine and trans tune from COW. Very nice improvement in response and shifting, very pleased.
In Aug '12, I started hearing a rattle underneath car about mid-length. It continued to get louder so I went to dealer. 10 days later, they said the bearing in the torque tube were bad and replaced them, under warranty. In Oct '12, same noise, same length to repair, entire torque tube was replaced, under warranty.
Heard a different noise this time, louder in engine compartment at 1800 RPM's. Went to dealer last Wednesday, called today and GM engineer said replace torque tube again. I asked the service rep if he thought this was strange. He said that since I had "some after-market calibrations, he was surprised that GM had warrantied any of the work and probably would not the next time".
Has anyone had similar problems? Can GM pick and choose which work to warranty? I realize that the COW tune could void warranty but they honored the first two replacements, and I assume they will honor this one.
Any similar experiences? Thanks
In Aug '12, I started hearing a rattle underneath car about mid-length. It continued to get louder so I went to dealer. 10 days later, they said the bearing in the torque tube were bad and replaced them, under warranty. In Oct '12, same noise, same length to repair, entire torque tube was replaced, under warranty.
Heard a different noise this time, louder in engine compartment at 1800 RPM's. Went to dealer last Wednesday, called today and GM engineer said replace torque tube again. I asked the service rep if he thought this was strange. He said that since I had "some after-market calibrations, he was surprised that GM had warrantied any of the work and probably would not the next time".
Has anyone had similar problems? Can GM pick and choose which work to warranty? I realize that the COW tune could void warranty but they honored the first two replacements, and I assume they will honor this one.
Any similar experiences? Thanks
