C5-1

So after reading past post it seems that I have to get an

ATI Super Harmonic Balancer
ARP bolt

Use NEW BOLT, with LOCTITE & new belts.

Does anyone have the part numbers for these parts? I'm doing the work my self...any special tools needed? How to articles? Tips from people that have done this before

I have a 2005 auto coupe w/ 95k miles...i think i found a post that a dealer will fix for free if cars vin is within certain #. Is this true? What are those vin #'s?

Brandon619

Take a look at this link.GM customer service is offering to run your vin. You may want to take advantage of that opportunity.

Click here https://www.corvetteforum.com/c6-tec...2588371&page=5

C5-1

Thanks will do

Neil350

The ATI is a nice piece but a bit pricey, I run one on my LT1 F-body, so I have nothing against them. On the C6 how ever I bought a Power bond Ballancer from SDPC and also the Bolt from them. Got it pretty quick and it worked great. I didn't want an under drive pulley and they had a Power Bond in the factory diameter. Been on the car for a little while now, seems like a nice piece.

stroked383z28

Pin the crank while you are in there. It's a piece of cake and you'll never have to worry about your bolt backing out.

C5-1

Any tips/shortcuts for the tear down/install?

Gering

OP: Take a look at these http://store.katechengines.com/bille...sioner-p2.aspx & http://store.katechengines.com/ati-s...ts-v-p230.aspx

C5-1

You must get a referral fee. Almost every post I have seen about harmonic balancer you post the same links.

Gering

You are VERY correct. These two parts are of high quality and I have them on my Vet as well that has over 155K miles on it. I am a firm believer in doing the repairs right the first time. As for a referral fee, no I do not get anything, but I do get the satisfaction of helping out a fellow Corvette member, which is good enough for me.

Also if you are in the need for some high quality brake rotors I would recommend these - http://shop.performanceafx.com/C6-Z51-Corvette_c15.htm

SteveC68

I just did this install on my 06 Z51. It is NOT for the faint of heart. I did the complete job in about 12 hours without the use of a lift. That includes about 4 trips to the parts store because I needed something. I chose a combination of methods. Remove steering rack and lower engine/craddle assembly. I could probably shave hours off that time if I had to do it again. If you aren't road racing your car save yourself some money and just get the powerbond balancer. I got mine from O'riely's online parts for $99. I did use the ARP bolt. No loctite just grease the threads and BOTH sides of the washer with the included assembly lube. I would recommend getting a 400 ft-lb torque wrench as they are longer. I made do with a 250 ft-lb, but I had to push it with my feet to get the 240 ft-lb torque on the bolt. Torque the bolt in stages. I think I did 50, 100, 200, 240 ft-lbs. There is a video on youtube showing how to remove the rack. What it doesn't show is that you need to remove all 4 engine cradle nuts. Also remove the lower shock mounting bolts and the upper control arm bolts. This will allow the engine/cradle assembly to be lowered much easier. I supported the car on ramps. I jacked the car up using the hocky pucks under the frame rails and slid 3 2x10 pieces under each front tire. Then I used a 4x4 under the engine cradle and jacked the car up a lot. Then with a hocky puck under each frame rail and a 2x10 laid accross my metal ramps I lowered the pucks down onto the ramps. This is very secure. Then start the dissasembly of the car. The two power steering lines are a pain and if you take the alternator off it's much easier to get access to them. Care must be used when finally pulling the rack out as you have to get physical with the brake lines coming out of the ABS unit. 2 man job there for sure. One under the car and one on the drivers side wheel well guiding/pulling the rack out. One sort of gotcha is when putting the belts back on they are going to fit VERY tight at first. I actually went and bought the next size larger belts, but eventually managed to get the stock sized ones back on. The new balancer must have been about 0.5mm larger diameter, but was just enough to make putting the belts on a real bitch. Any questions feel free to PM me. I also had air tools which helped. You can also use the puller that O'Riely's rents, but you will have to make a custom dowel ($10 from a large drill bit found at Home Depot cut to size with a Dremel). You will also need an 18mm line wrench. I cut one in half to make access to the power steering lines easier. There is a trick to using the stubby line wrench to both loosen and tighten those lines. It's hard to discribe so if you want to know I'll take a picture and post it here.

Steve

C5-1

Great advice...now I don't know which HB to buy

SteveC68

Is your car a C6 or C6 Z06?

C5-1

Base c6

SteveC68

Just get the powerbond balancer.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2316&ppt=C0332

This is the one for the LS2, but I believe it is the same balancer for the LS3.

truckplay

I run a Powerbond on my C6 & an Slp on my C5 & I think they are the same thing.

C5-1

Thanks for the help guys...stock HB is out...now to install the powerbond.

SteveC68

Hopefully you got the new balancer installed. If you haven't installed it yet, one thing I did was put the new balancer in a pot of water. Then put the water on the stove and heated it up. I didn't bring the water to boil, but I did measure the temperature and took the balancer out when the water was around 180F. I was able to hold the balancer with mechanics gloves while I slid the balancer onto the crankshaft. It didn't go all the way on by just pushing on it so you use the old harmonic balancer bolt to pull it up tight. Then torque the old bolt to around 100 ft-lbs. Remove the old bolt and install the new one. Torquing the balancer with the old bolt insures that it is seated on the crank. Because it is hot it is much easier to seat.