Want Camshaft for 2011 Grand Sport Corvette LS3
#1
Want Camshaft for 2011 Grand Sport Corvette LS3
Whats a good Street & Drag Cam for 2011 Grand Sport Corvette LS3, what can of HP can i get also with Dyno Tune What Brand and type (Dimensions?)
Last edited by mgbove; 07-19-2013 at 04:03 PM.
#3
Burning Brakes
Where are you located, and do you have MN6 or an A6?
There are lots of cam choices, with different degrees of "drive-ability". I suggest you talk to several people with cams to try and find what is right for you.
Just remember that cams are like girlfriends, everyone thinks theirs is the hottest!!
There are lots of cam choices, with different degrees of "drive-ability". I suggest you talk to several people with cams to try and find what is right for you.
Just remember that cams are like girlfriends, everyone thinks theirs is the hottest!!
#4
This is one of those "ask ten different guys, get ten different answers" things...
If your concern is idle quality and difficulty to tune, then the two most important things will be intake duration and lobe separation angle ("LSA") both of which will determine the amount overlap (or whether you have any) which causes reversion and that nasty idle sound that every one likes (well, almost everyone).
Read the article in the link below. It explains all of the relevant issues with determining a good camshaft for street driven LS3s.
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ft_comparison/
I would say, with an A6 with a stock converter, you would want to keep the intake duration below 216 degrees (@.050" lift) and the lobe separation around 114-116 degrees and with an M6 or an A6 with a looser converter, around 220 to 228 degrees on the intake, and you can tighten up the LSA to 112-113 for more power. But, as they say, many roads lead to Rome. Most importantly, you would only want to change the cam if you have a competent tuner to tune it after the install.
#7
Drifting
I called Comp Cam to see what they recommended for my 08 A6 with headers, cai, 2.73 gear and a stock stall. I told them I wanted a good driving car that would idle in traffic yet make more power.
Here are the spec. it is custom ground and if it had a name he would call it a LSR Rectangular Port 271 Lr HR 113.5
219/231
.607/.617
113.5
Here are the spec. it is custom ground and if it had a name he would call it a LSR Rectangular Port 271 Lr HR 113.5
219/231
.607/.617
113.5
#8
Drifting
I would not run a cam on a 113 LSA in a stock stalled auto but then again I don't like my car shaking sitting there at a light. I just installed a Comp 218/230 .604/.605 on a 116+2 (this cam is ground on XFI lobes). It idles really smooth at 600rpm's almost like the stock cam with a very slight lope you can barely hear if you listen carefully. I used the PAC 1518 single springs with all the stock hardware - so my car doesn't have that loud sewing machine sound driving around like all the double spring kits end up causing. I can also lug the car at 1100rpm in any gear with absolutely zero bucking
My supporting mods are Airaid intake, ported stock LS3 TB and intake manifold, and Kooks 1-7/8" headers with 3" center section and hi-flow cats. I am also running a 160 t-stat and B&M trans cooler with all of the fan settings changed in the tune. I tuned the car myself so I have had time to make quite a few tweaks on the car to perfect it.
If I was to do it over again I would have done a 222/234 on LXL lobes ground on a 116+2. That would have given me an extra 10hp or so up top with very, very little loss on the bottom end and maintained stock drivability. No matter though since an A&A kit is likely going on the car soon and should take me to around 625-650rwhp at 9-10psi
My supporting mods are Airaid intake, ported stock LS3 TB and intake manifold, and Kooks 1-7/8" headers with 3" center section and hi-flow cats. I am also running a 160 t-stat and B&M trans cooler with all of the fan settings changed in the tune. I tuned the car myself so I have had time to make quite a few tweaks on the car to perfect it.
If I was to do it over again I would have done a 222/234 on LXL lobes ground on a 116+2. That would have given me an extra 10hp or so up top with very, very little loss on the bottom end and maintained stock drivability. No matter though since an A&A kit is likely going on the car soon and should take me to around 625-650rwhp at 9-10psi
#9
Drifting
I would not run a cam on a 113 LSA in a stock stalled auto but then again I don't like my car shaking sitting there at a light. I just installed a Comp 218/230 .604/.605 on a 116+2 (this cam is ground on XFI lobes). It idles really smooth at 600rpm's almost like the stock cam with a very slight lope you can barely hear if you listen carefully. I used the PAC 1518 single springs with all the stock hardware - so my car doesn't have that loud sewing machine sound driving around like all the double spring kits end up causing. I can also lug the car at 1100rpm in any gear with absolutely zero bucking
My supporting mods are Airaid intake, ported stock LS3 TB and intake manifold, and Kooks 1-7/8" headers with 3" center section and hi-flow cats. I am also running a 160 t-stat and B&M trans cooler with all of the fan settings changed in the tune. I tuned the car myself so I have had time to make quite a few tweaks on the car to perfect it.
If I was to do it over again I would have done a 222/234 on LXL lobes ground on a 116+2. That would have given me an extra 10hp or so up top with very, very little loss on the bottom end and maintained stock drivability. No matter though since an A&A kit is likely going on the car soon and should take me to around 625-650rwhp at 9-10psi
My supporting mods are Airaid intake, ported stock LS3 TB and intake manifold, and Kooks 1-7/8" headers with 3" center section and hi-flow cats. I am also running a 160 t-stat and B&M trans cooler with all of the fan settings changed in the tune. I tuned the car myself so I have had time to make quite a few tweaks on the car to perfect it.
If I was to do it over again I would have done a 222/234 on LXL lobes ground on a 116+2. That would have given me an extra 10hp or so up top with very, very little loss on the bottom end and maintained stock drivability. No matter though since an A&A kit is likely going on the car soon and should take me to around 625-650rwhp at 9-10psi