dev1360

For the amount you want to lower, stock bolts will be fine.

dev1360

All of that is 100% wrong. A shock uses fluid and/or gas to dampen and control the uncontrolled movement of a spring. A shock is linear in it's applied force because the fluid or air moves to a different chamber of the shock through valving. You can test this theory by moving a shock through its entire range of motion with your hands. Magna ride and coil overs are different.

He is not talking about "tires rising". Tires will gain a small amount of diameter due to centrifugal force at high speeds. Off the launch, they do not magically expand somehow.

whatcop?

smh and as for the tires I was referencing the true race cars on slicks you mentioned.

dev1360

"True race cars on slicks" still don't possess magical power that expands the tire at the launch.

Bias plies, and to a lesser amount, Drag radials actually wrinkle on the sidewall as the wheel spins faster on the inside than on the outside. They still expand as speeds climb, but not out of the hole.


Please stop posting. It is very clear you have no idea what you are talking about.

whatcop?

No I don't because I don't do 1.98 60'

dev1360

When all else fails, resort to the 60' on run flats. Good call.

I'm still leaning into the vette. I had many high 1.6s in my GTO.


Here is a ****** 1.83 from the other night.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIeeYHkDkOA&feature=youtube_gdat a_player

whatcop?

Meh still not impressed. I am not a drag racer and went 1.8s on 20'' runflats first time out in the car.

glass slipper

Since you're talking about my post, please take a few minutes to expound on "some points" of mine that are "wrong". As far as the rest of your post is concerned, I haven't read such drivel in a long time. Shocks do not affect the ride height of a car whether it's been lowered or raised. The bolded sentence just makes no sense at all...seriously, pushing upwards and downwards at the same time???

Here's a link that describes anti-squat:
http://performancetrends.com/4link.htm

There are thousands of more links with the exact same info, hard to believe there are that many wrong people. Please do us and yourself a favor and learn what anti-squat is before posting again.

It is more than a theory, it is reality.


That is obvious...

whatcop?

If all my points are wrong then explain why magnetic ride 60' better in touring mode than in sport. Height is not altered between the two. I'll give you a hint, it has the same affect as when you lower a car and increase pressure in a shock due to conserving the same amount of volume.

whatcop?

Oh and thanks for posting the link for a program ad. Your engineering prowness makes me doubt my intelligence and logic before you post.

glass slipper

The better 60' times occur as a result of less shock damping in the front shocks allowing more weight transfer to the rear. The pressure in a shock changes very little with jounce/rebound...you are confusing the purpose of the gas charge in the shock. The gas charge helps to prevent cavitation induced air bubbles which negatively affects the damping rates. You seem to be confused on many aspects of a car.

I was hoping you would actually buy the program so you might learn something or maybe google "antisquat instant center" so you could educate yourself. Here's a few more links to make you happy:

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...n/viewall.html
Pay particular attention to the conclusion where it says "There are dozens of other variables like weight distribution, engine torque, shock tuning, tire pressures, and of dozens more that contribute to improving traction."

Read more: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...#ixzz2iKBV2jcQ
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roll_centerhttp://www.circletrack.com/chassiste...y/viewall.html
http://www.circletrack.com/chassiste...y/viewall.html

And if you think you are starting to get a handle on all of this, try this one:
http://www.nacomm03.ammindia.org/Articles/Nav004.pdf

There's a lot of "engineering" that goes into all aspects of performance...and BTW, it's prowess not "prowness".

dev1360

I appreciate someone else in here that isn't a complete tool bag. It is fruitless to argue with him. He obviously has much more money than sense and won't be convinced otherwise.

whatcop?

https://www.cachassisworks.com/Attac...1-226_drag.pdf

Look ma I can post links too. Refer to page 3.

glass slipper

I wondered when you were going to deliver, your truck finally arrived this morning.



From page 3 of your link:
"Drag race vehicles generally require more extension (rebound) travel to help weight transfer, and because the drag strip is very flat, less compression travel is needed. The amount of extension travel available in the shock will drastically affect how the car works. At baseline ride height, the shock and spring should collapse 60- percent from their installed heights. This results in 60-percent of travel available for extension and 40-percent of compression travel."

Thanks, your link proved my point...the underlined bolded part says less compression is needed for drag racing. The reason is because a rear suspension properly set up for drag racing will extend the shock when the rear rises due to anti-squat, you don't want the shock to bottom out when it extends so you set 60% of its travel available in the extend direction.

Somebody got a picture of you playing with a shock...

OPrimal

Done! Thanks a lot for the help guys! On to the next mod!

whatcop?

Your reading comprehension kills me. That point is in regards to front suspension and doesn't mean you can just lower the rear on a stock spring. When you lower the vette on stock bolts you compress the spring. When you compress the spring it has more energy in it. When it has more energy in it then it pushes equally up and down and you I dunno if you got the memo or not but you can push your car up a lot easier than you can push the earth down. Also when the shock compress it wants to rebound aka extend more readily. So what you would effectively be doing is unloading the rear between shifts and unable to compress the rear and weight transfer the rear as easily. Argue all you want but no lowered on stock bolts vette 60' better than stock. Now if you had said you wanted to get a shorter spring and a shock with the proper dampening then yes you can lower a vette and still hook.

dev1360

Jesus H. Christ. You are incredibly stupid.

Lowering the car via the bolts brings the control arm closer to the spring. It does NOT compress the spring. It only sits closer to the control arm.

The shocks are linear in applied force. They DO NOT try to push harder because it is compressed.

whatcop?

Palm face so hard. Control arm gets closer without compressing the spring? Can you get under your car and turn a wrench without paying a shop to do it. Seriously I'm getting tired of battling ignorance. Your spring sits on your control arm.

whatcop?

Next you will tell me that lowering doesn't affect alignment

dev1360

The bolt coming through the spring controls how close the control arm is to the spring. By turning the bolt further into the spring, you bring the control arm closer to the spring. You do not change the compression of the spring.

And, alignment was the first thing I told OP to do.


You have to be trolling, right?