Originally Posted by Patrick G

The timing being pulled is only for 150-200ms. This is the amount of time for the shift to complete. If you keep full timing during the shift, the actual shift times may extend to 250-300ms and be much harder on parts because there's more clutch slippage. I prefer a really fast shift because you can get back into the power faster. Log your shift times with 0% TM and 100% TM and see if you find the same results. For this to work, you'll need to have your shift times shortened vs stock, but not too much.

Originally Posted by Danny Richie

Hey, I think I have driven that car. :-)

Originally Posted by Patrick G

You have indeed sir.

We had a great time at the Texas Mile this weekend. My wife told me if I broke 200mph I'd have to sell the car so I did my best top end bracket racing of my life and ran 199.8mph not once but twice, LOL. Ran 169.7mph in the half mile which is pretty stout for my mild setup and stock run flat tires.

Originally Posted by Patrick G

Keeping trans temps down is a biggie obviously. This is why I run the stock torque converter. Builds much less heat than a high stall converter. Keeping upshifts from being too violent is why I run 100% upshift torque management at WOT. Shifts are still 150-200ms so they are plenty fast. Faster with upshift TM engaged 100% than when it's reduced. The biggest key in trans longevity however is getting your delivered torque signal from your ECM correct so that the TCM applies the proper amount of line pressure and does the shift times properly. This is tricky if you're running larger injectors than the OS will accept and feel like you have to scale the MAF to get fueling back in line.

Originally Posted by M M Alexander

I'm in the process of a 416 (ERL) ECS 1500 A6 build with my Grand Sport - not enough funds in the budget to get after market heads, so the stock LS3 units will have to suffice (for the next year or so anyhow) ... I do not want to put a stall convertor in (though I do run an external cooler with a fan). I'm wondering if you can spec me a cam for that combo???

Originally Posted by Patrick G

I have always enjoyed driving my cars daily rather than having them as dedicated race cars. I am very pleased to report how nicely my 2013 Corvette Grand Sport has turned out. First off, mine is a heavily optioned automatic car. Now before any of you purists dog the car for running an automatic, I must say that this is the fastest shifting automatic car I have ever modified. The shift response after engaging the paddle shifters is immediate.



Here are the details on the car:
Forged 416 LS3 built by LME featuring Wiseco 15cc dished pistons, Callies Compstar rods, and Callies Dragon Slayer Crank. Static compression is 10.0:1.

Cam choice: 222/242 .629/.604" 121LSA +5 advance custom Patrick G cam ground using EPS lobes from Cam Motion. This is a smooth idlling, wife-approved cam that idles at 600 rpm and sounds awesome. Good fuel economy and not a stinky cam.

HK Racing Engines sourced the Trick Flow 255 LS3 heads which were massaged by Greg Good from Houston.
Peak flow numbers were 409cfm at .650" on intake and 263cfm on exhaust. I used the TFS 448lb dual valve springs with Ti retainers. Greg worked primarily on improving the wet flow of the TFS heads as their dry flow is already excellent right out of the box.

Presence Distribution sourced the East Coast Supercharging Paxton Novi 1500 supercharger with restrictor removed. This is the most OEM looking and fitting centrifical supercharger that I've seen for the C6s. With my generous head flow, cam choice, and extra cubes, peak boost is only 11 psi. The fuel system upgrade is the ECS stage one fuel system that utilizes an inline Bosch pump activated by a Hobb switch at 2psi. This is good for over 800rwhp. No boost a pump for my combo. The stock LS3 intake manifold used the stock fuel rails and FIC 850 fuel injectors.



LSX Performance Dyno Tuning sourced the American Racing 1 7/8" long tube headers, no cats and stock 2.5" OEM NPP rear muffler section round out the mods. Kurt Decker applied a really trick Lingenfelter window switch to control the NPP exhaust so it stays closed and quiet at any rpm where throttle position is less than 80%. Above 80% throttle, the extra baffles open and it gets really loud and exotic sounding. I have the mild to wild switch if I want it to be loud all the time.

Assembly of the engine, supercharger and fuel system was handled by Mike Pabone at Late Model Racecraft in Houston. LMR also fabbed up a custom coolant crossover for cylinders 7 & 8 to keep combustion chamber temps in line with the others. LMR also constructed a trick dual hose evac system to keep crankcase pressure under control and to route crankcase gasses to a catch can reservoir at the front of the car.



All tuning was handled by yours truly using both EFI Live and HP Tuners. There are some really important tables that are exclusive to each piece of software so the best tune came from using both programs.

On LMR's dyno, the combo made 719rwhp and 653 rwtq. Here's a video of the dyno run.

http://youtu.be/O6-NXUB0AXc

Keep in mind, this run was performed with only 15 degrees of spark timing, 93 octane, no meth, and 11 psi. Don't forget this is an automatic with stock transmission and stock torque converter. If I want to make over 800rwhp, all I have to do is do a pulley swap, add some race fuel and crank the ignition timing up into the 20 degree range. I plan on racing the car in this upcoming Texas Mile. The car is a highway machine, it gets 23mpg and is super reliable. I give thanks to all parties involved in making this project a reality.

Originally Posted by vstol

Great build are you using stock fuel lines and are they 3/16ths or 1/2 inch? I have a LS3 427 C3 build and getting ready to plume the fuel lines from the fuel cell. Thanks