BAKnBLK2010

I have a question I couldn't find the answer to by searching. Both of my rear axel nuts are loose. When re torqueing them does the suspension need to be loaded or unloaded? Thanks!

timd38

Doesn't matter.

Dano523

140 ft lbs , and give it a day for the loctite to set up before you start driving the car.

Mad*Max

In addition, you should use new nuts and not re-torque the existing ones.

Sayfoo

I believe that GM does recommend this, but I didn't. I loosened them up and applied red locktite. I did check them a couple of times and they are still tight 20k+ miles later. On the other hand, they are fairly cheap.

SUB VETTE

Mark the edge of the nut with a thin paint line after torqueing which will make future inspection for loosening easy..

timd38

New nuts and mark them!

BAKnBLK2010

Thanks for the replies. I applied the red Loctite and used the original nuts with the suspension loaded. I'll get new nuts if these loosen up again. I can't believe what a difference it made in my car. I was getting a lot of popping when coming to a stop and the driveline seemed to have a lot of slack. After tightening the axel nuts the popping is completely gone and the driveline seems about 90% better.

Mad*Max

I am not a technical expert, but be careful of repeatedly tightening the nuts (not saying that you will need to) because some members have said that you can break the axle.

chasboland

I used the old nuts as jam nuts behind the "new" nuts.

cclive

This is what I did also...got the new nuts off Amazon for $8 shipped for the pair.

VET4LES

After reading this thread a few days ago I decided to check mine. Some years ago when this issue came up my right nut was very loose. I torqued them both to 118 pounds which I think was the norm at the time. Today they are still torqued the same and very rusted.

hisvett

I did the same this morning after reading this post. I've been hearing a clicking when pulling into the garage.... completely forgot about the axle nut. Sure enough, the right side (drive side) was hardly finger tight So a quick R&R of the nut and a little Loc-Tite and we are go to go for another 40K.

BTW, 118 lbs ft of torque is correct....I was questioning the low number so I turned to; www.davidfarmerstuff.com/

Gearhead Jim

I believe Farmer's info was for the 2005, and has not been updated.

There is a GM bulletin about replacing the rear axle nuts, the latest version I can find said 160 but some folks claim a newer version of the bulletin says 140.

Rebel 1

Tapping or Scraping Noise From Rear Wheel Area (Replace Wheel Drive Shaft Nut) #07-04-95-001 - (09/26/2007)

Models: 2004-2008 Chevrolet Corvette and 2004-2008 Cadillac XLR
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Condition
Some customers may comment on a tapping or a scraping noise coming from the rear wheel area.

Cause
This condition may be due to the torque on the wheel drive shaft nut relaxing over time.

Correction
Replace the left and the right wheel drive shaft nut following the procedure below.

Remove the center cap from the rim.
Remove and discard the wheel drive shaft nut.
Apply LOCTITE™ 272, or equivalent, to the threads of the axle shaft.
Install the nut and tighten to the new specification.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 215 N·m (160 lb ft).

Install the center cap to the rim.
Important: The vehicle should not be driven for 24 hours following the repair in order to allow the thread lock to cure.
Parts Information
Part Number.....10257766
Description......Nut
Qty................2 (one per side)

Warranty Information: Labor op F9712 0.3 hr.

hisvett

OK, here's the rest of the story; Yes, early torque settings for the rear flangged axle nut was 118 or more accurately 118 to 128 Lb. Ft. of torque.

Yes, it got bumped to 160 Lb. Ft. of torque and then pulled back to 140.

The parts are basically the same between C5, early C6 and later C6; they all use the same size thread, nut and axle style. The biggest difference is GM changed the flagged nut from a flat face to a serrated face with the wheel hub face to match the nut. The two mating surfaces work as a lock washer. Sorry for not taking pics when had my '12 and '04 apart.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say the 160 number came about as a knee jerk reaction to all the early flat face nuts coming loose. The current 140 number came into play when the new style nut and wheel hub replaced the old......just my 2 cents

I'm quite satisfied using suggested Loc-Tite 272 and 130 & 140 Lb. Ft. of torque on my C5 & C6.

Rebel 1

The TSB i posted was the latest one i could find. I would be interested to see a TSB which supersedes this one. Link?
Dealer used 140 torque and red loctite on our car and it didn't last. I torqued axle nuts to 160 ft.lbs. per TSB and marked them. No issues since.

hisvett

Google "Torque for rear axle nut on C6 Corvette".....I found it on another Corvette forum, I think it may have been "Vette" forum.

It sounds to me as if you have an early C6 with the flat face flagged nuts? Both my cars have just over 40K miles; the C5 with the flat nuts were loose but the '12 with the newer style nuts and hub were still torqued at approximately 140. It appears to me that the boys and girls back in Milford did their homework.

CMY SIX

locktite doesn't dry, it the lack of o2 between the threads that causes the chemcal reaction

0HinsonSuperCars

As these guys stated before, these nuts are not designed to be retorqued. If any of you need some of these give me a call I keep plenty of them. 205-909-9402