smaynor

Sorry for the long post. Lots to describe about the problem.

Mods in signature - Friday night at the strip, I wanted to make a small shift point change on the 2-3 shift. I made the change, and flashed the program. I have done this several times with no issue.

Started car, drove to staging lane, onto the line, did a burnout, and as I am getting ready to stage, the car won't move. It's like the trans is stuck in D and Park. Tries to pull slightly, but won't move. It will take Park and Neutral, but no Reverse or Drive.

I put it in Neutral and push it off the line. It did this one time before in exactly the same situation, and it cleared itself up in about 10 mins. Took Drive with a hard bang, and all was well. Not the case this time.

So...disconnected battery twice, flashed old program, flashed new program, etc. and it's still stuck in gear. Shifter moves, car won't move.

Winched it on the trailer and brought it home. Started up and coasted to front of garage. Car ran fine. I did the trans adapt reset, the trans fast learn procedure (which failed during the calibration of D). Still stuck in Park or whatever. I could feel it take Drive during the fast learn procedure in HP Tuners.

Set code of P0777 Solenoid B stuck. So, I pushed it into shop and put it on the lift. Dropped the trans pan, cleaned the solenoids best I could with carb cleaner, checked the solenoids with the 9V battery test, and they all clicked when energized. Wiring was disconnected from trans while I did this!

Put it all back together, and now it won't start. So, put a new battery in it, and fully charged it. Still won't start.

When I push the start button, the dash goes black. 10 secs later, the dash comes back on, and the gauges sweep. The following messages then show on the DIC:
- Service Vehicle Soon
- Service Anti Lock Brakes
- Service Fuel System
- Low Fuel

It's not low on fuel. When the dash comes back up, when I tap the brake pedal, I can hear/feel a click under the shifter. I can also hear the fuel pump come on when the button is pushed.

I'm lost! Basically, all I did was change the trans fluid, and now it won't start. I'm going to clear the codes and try again, but I sure would appreciate some help on what to look for. Starter connections look good. Battery grounds look good, etc.

Any and all help is appreciated!

Thanks,
Stacey

smaynor

Tried to start car again this morning. Still no start, but the dash does not go black when hitting start button. Gauges sweep immediately just like they always have, but still no attempt to start.

Pulled the codes, and here is what it says:
[] U0073 - Control Module Communication Bus Off (SES) (History) (Immature)
[] U0101 - Lost Communication with TCM (SES) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
[] U0121 - Lost Communication With ABS Control Module (Old) (History) (Immature)
[] U0101 - Lost Communication with TCM
[] U0073 - Control Module Communication Bus Off

I've checked all the fuses. Any idea where to start?

Thanks,
Stacey

HOXXOH

It sounds like 2 unrelated issues, since the no start happened well after the trans problem.
I'd be looking at the battery cable connector on the solenoid to see if it wiggles like a cracked bakelite housing might for the no start problem.

Now I'm curious as to the 2-3 shift tweak.
What tires and gear are you running, and did you ever change the tire size to correct the speedometer in HPTuners?
In which mode did you change the 2-3 shift?
What was the previous shift point and what did you change it to?
And now the big question, haha. What kind of times did you have on the previous passes?

smaynor

I do believe the two are somewhat related. My opinion is that the 16-pin connector that goes into the right rear of the trans is somehow not making connection anymore. Therefore, the ECM doesn't see the TCM, and won't start.

I've removed and reseated the plug multiple times to no avail. Fluid slowly runs out of the hole when I remove the connector. Is that normal? Doesn't seem right to me, so I'm going to pull the pan again and see if the internal connector got moved somehow while I was working with it. Long shot, but it might work.

Now...The reason for the change....according to my data logs, and my seat of the pants, I could feel the car nose over slightly before it made the 2-3 shift. I was adjusting the shift point down by 2 MPH to better hit the right shift point.

I'm running the 2.56 gear with 28x10.5 Hoosier slicks. I have not adjusted the program to these tires. I did, however, have it adjusted to the 275-40-17 drag radials I used to run. I'm not too concerned about the speedo since 95% of the driving is at the track.

I changed to slicks due to the DR's just not hooking up consistently, and having to launch soft and baby it off the line. Others will disagree. That's OK. They just didn't work for my car on my particular track. With the slicks I can leave as hard as I want.

I change shift points in Normal, Pattern A, and Pattern B. I just keep them all the same. I adjust the part throttle tables accordingly.

My car runs 6.59 - 6.60 at 104 at +2500 DA in the 1/8. 1.40 60' times.

Thanks,
Stacey

crash37637

Did you ever figure out what it was