el es tu

Im interested in an ati damper - I would like to do a conservative underdrive so as not to kill the alternator. Is the underdrive worth it, what kind of gains are expected and should I just stick with stock diameter?

Im not so concerned about the ac as I dont use it but I still want to retain function of the ac at this point...

Which aftermarket harmonic balancer would be recommended? (2007 ls2)

on the install - can this be done without removing the radiator?

Ive seen a of of writeups - the factory install seems excessively involved, and then Ive seen folks on the other extreme just removing the pulley and bolting a new one in. - Then read about folks saying that you have to reuse the original bolt to seat the pulley, then install the new bolt... What is actually involved with all this?

One last thing - has anyone tried a nord-lock between the bolt head and the pulley? For those that arent familiar with nord locks - they are a two piece washer with teeth - they are designed to never come lose and are reusable. The military chooses them over loctite and the zr1 even got them for the axle nuts instead of loctite.




Thanks!

c5racr1

You have to bove the steering rack and depending on your car lock the fly wheel so u can torque it. If you are doing a cam swap I would say yes. But just the pulley is a lot of work, depends on you. Radiator pull not sure but fan and steering rack for sure

Dano523

No on the under-drive for a stock C6 alternator.
The stock alternator is already just putting out enough current when spun normally to charge the system, which takes more than a shot drive to charge the battery back up.

As for the stock alternator, don't worry about wearing it out. At most, its the armature brushes that wear out, and you can change them out in the alternator for under $10.

Yes, on the ATI HB for a replacement of the wobbling OEM HB.

As for changing it out, the steering rack (and anything else in front of it) has to be pulled to give you the needed room to pull it off the crank/seat it back in on the crank (jack the front of the car up, and crawl under the front of the car and look at the limit space in front of the HB).


As for nord lock, really not needed on the OEM bolt, since its a one time use stretch bolt, and is loctite on as well.

On the ATI, drill the crank for the crank key pin kit and use a ARP HB bolt. The key pin resolves a lot of problems with the HB bolt coming loose, since with it pinned, the HB can not rotate on the crank, and the ARP bolt is just way better than the OEM bolt (still locktite it in place with the correct torque).

As for why GM ditch the HB key pin, just an extra process in producing the crank shaft, and since the car is not timed via a timing light mark on the HB, does not matter how the HB indexes to the shaft when installed.

Blk 08 C6

radiator can stay.rack has to be slide to the right just to clear the balancer.just finish my camswap yesterday.using a jegs balancer OD 8 rib setup crank pinned.