do i need to lube swaybars pillow blocks (poly)?
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
do i need to lube swaybars pillow blocks (poly)?
Getting ready to install a set of Johnny o Connell swaybars with polyurethane bushings/pillow blocks. Do i need to use some type of lube to help keep them from squeaking? Torque specs for oem endlinks?
#2
Usually not needed, but Teflon spray won't hurt if you do get a noise. Make sure you use the correct tools on the stock end links. Do not turn the end link threaded cross stud in the link end. You will break the bond on the rubber bushing and you WILL get noise from the links.
#4
Been awhile for me, but look at the end link threaded stud, I believe the end of it has a milled end for a star socket . Use that to hold the stud from turning, then you can undo the nut holding the link to the bar.
#6
Melting Slicks
Do not use the same length on your end links as the factory ones. If you do you will have contact with your lower a-arm and the sway. This is due to the different shape in the JOC sway bar design.
Make them about .375" longer than stock for the front.
No problem in the rear going with the factory length.
It is a t40 trox bit to stop the factory end links from spinning during removal.
Be sure to test your front sway bar tension with no end links attached.
I had to add a washer under the bracket for the bushing to allow the sway bar to rotate. It comes with grease that you should use on the bushings.
DJ
Make them about .375" longer than stock for the front.
No problem in the rear going with the factory length.
It is a t40 trox bit to stop the factory end links from spinning during removal.
Be sure to test your front sway bar tension with no end links attached.
I had to add a washer under the bracket for the bushing to allow the sway bar to rotate. It comes with grease that you should use on the bushings.
DJ
#8
Melting Slicks
Only when you compress the suspension from like hitting a dip in the road will the contact happen.
But this is not good, the instructions do not mention this at all from Pfadt. I found out because my end links became loose fairly quick.
I could see a very small contact point with the lower a arm.
So, I would not suggest using the factory end links.
But this is not good, the instructions do not mention this at all from Pfadt. I found out because my end links became loose fairly quick.
I could see a very small contact point with the lower a arm.
So, I would not suggest using the factory end links.
#9
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Do not use the same length on your end links as the factory ones. If you do you will have contact with your lower a-arm and the sway. This is due to the different shape in the JOC sway bar design.
Make them about .375" longer than stock for the front.
No problem in the rear going with the factory length.
It is a t40 trox bit to stop the factory end links from spinning during removal.
Be sure to test your front sway bar tension with no end links attached.
I had to add a washer under the bracket for the bushing to allow the sway bar to rotate. It comes with grease that you should use on the bushings.
DJ
Make them about .375" longer than stock for the front.
No problem in the rear going with the factory length.
It is a t40 trox bit to stop the factory end links from spinning during removal.
Be sure to test your front sway bar tension with no end links attached.
I had to add a washer under the bracket for the bushing to allow the sway bar to rotate. It comes with grease that you should use on the bushings.
DJ
#10
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Only when you compress the suspension from like hitting a dip in the road will the contact happen.
But this is not good, the instructions do not mention this at all from Pfadt. I found out because my end links became loose fairly quick.
I could see a very small contact point with the lower a arm.
So, I would not suggest using the factory end links.
But this is not good, the instructions do not mention this at all from Pfadt. I found out because my end links became loose fairly quick.
I could see a very small contact point with the lower a arm.
So, I would not suggest using the factory end links.
#13
Melting Slicks
I'm not fimiliar with this set up, but this comes up all the time in the c3 section.
The biggest gripe aginst poly bushings is that some of them really squeek. Most come with a packet of grease to apply at installation. It is a good bet to go ahead and lube them while you're installing them, rather then have to come back and lube them later.
I used poly bushings and grease on my c3 and they started to squeek after 4-5 yrs. I was able to use a siringe to shoot light oil in to the bushing from the outside and that has worked for the last yr. One of these days, on my list, I'm going to install zerk fittings on the pillow blocks and drill through the poly bushing so that I can grease them once in a while.
The biggest gripe aginst poly bushings is that some of them really squeek. Most come with a packet of grease to apply at installation. It is a good bet to go ahead and lube them while you're installing them, rather then have to come back and lube them later.
I used poly bushings and grease on my c3 and they started to squeek after 4-5 yrs. I was able to use a siringe to shoot light oil in to the bushing from the outside and that has worked for the last yr. One of these days, on my list, I'm going to install zerk fittings on the pillow blocks and drill through the poly bushing so that I can grease them once in a while.