timafey

Hey guys,
So i noticed I have an issue in my Z06, when I accelerate the car wonders all over the place like something is lose in the rear and at speeds above 120 its really shifty, and feels very unstable!

I think its my end links? What do you think the best option to go with? MTI sells STEINJAGER sways, has anyone tried these?

Should I go OEM or aftermarket on the endlinks?

Thanks for the input!

C U IN REARVEIW

Not sure how many miles on your car but, possibly could be control arm bushings.

haljensen

Driving straight ahead on smooth pavement the "sway bars" aren't doing anything.

Your problem is probably something other than end links.

bobeast

If your end links were bad, you'd likely be hearing knocking noises as you go over small bumps. Really sounds like something loose or worn in your steering mechanism.

timafey

Well this is over slightly uneven pavement is when this develops, steering is sharp, more like something lose in the rear. doesn't inspire any confidence over 120 in straight line and especially in a turn at high speed. It does clunk in the rear when going over bumps (not bad but still does it).

Another option is to replace shocks. I know DRM bilstein are great, but I can't wait months before those become available if its just a special buy, so any options in that regard?

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

Has anyone checked the alignment?

If the wheels are not pointed in the right direction, the best parts in the world will not fix it.


The hopping side to side thing is primarily an issue with the leaf spring on the car and not enough damper to control it (crappy shocks). Upgrading the shocks will help calm some of this, but again I would check alignment.

timafey

Agreed, just had alignment done. Feel like after alignment it might have gotten even worse? Also this same shop that did my alignment said that the pfadt alignment specs for street performance didn't make any sense bc said the wheels will point in the wrong direction basically... So not even sure what specs I need to run.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

Do you have a print out of what it was before hand and what it was now?


FYI....rear toe is going to be probably the biggest thing to effect this. If they have 0 to positive toe (toe out) in the rear it will be almost undrivable at any speed. Most road race cars will run a good amount of toe in at the back to keep it stable at speed and under braking.

timafey

Unfortunately not... I believe the toe was pretty close to 0 though from what I remember.. Do you happen to have some spec ideas I should try running for street and track purposes that won't totally eat up my tires? I'll take it back and hand them a spec sheet this time around. Just can't have a car feel like I'm about to spin out going in a straight line at speed.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

Street cars..this is where I start from.

Front
Camber: Neg 1.1 to 1.5
Caster: Positive 7.25 to 8
Toe: 0 to 1 /16" total toe out

Rear
Camber: Neg 0.9 to 1.25
Toe: 1/16" to 1/8" total toe in


Might have some inside tire wear but that should give it a pretty stable feel. At least that is a pretty solid starting point and you can adjust from there.

Bill Dearborn

Either you had an old Pfadt Spec sheet or the guy didn't read the notes at the top of the newer sheet. For some reason Pfadt spec'd toe in as negative whereas most machines and people refer to toe in as positive. Pfadt didn't do anything wrong since there is no official standard, they just went against somewhat generally accepted practice. You could have a seriously toed out rear toe setting. The Pfadt settings are all within the GM specs so are nothing unusual. Just a specific setting chosen out of a range of settings. Their toe settings for Performance Street are .17 degrees (or 1/16 in) of toe in front and rear.

You could also have worn rear control arm bushings that could be causing issues. Another thing to check is to see if the LCA camber adjustment cams are tight. A lot of alignment guys don't torque them down enough (this is one of those areas where I am a tighter is better type of guy and I use wrench extensions to get them tight).

Bill

cclive

I agree with all the above...it is unlikely that end links are involved. 120 is not very fast...the car should be completely no drama at that speed.

AORoads

I've been to a Corvette performance shop where, years ago they told me about that last paragraph of the post by "Bill Dearborn." What they said was my rear torque specs for camber adj. were one thing, and the loosening happened despite the spec. Mine are tight, and slightly tighter than spec for that reason. While that may not be your only problem, it could be one of them.

Nickbeam

Did you ever get this resolved? What solution worked for you?