hungryhorace

No fart jokes here, sorry lads its not Christmas yet.

06 z06 - the diff is not making the noise

I get occasionally a grinding/graunching noise which is definitely not diff. Its the same tone, frequency regardless of speed. ITs like a joint is lacking lubrication but suspect its the leaf springs making the noise.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Dano523

Might be gravel/sand between the height adjuster pad and the spring, or if you went to after market height adjusters, could be that the pad on it failed.

Could just be one of the sway bar end links giving up the ghost.

Could be a wheel hub bearing going out.

Could be diff support mounts going out.

Note, Without hearing the noise, and/or have the car up on lift to check it out, I'm just chucking lawn darts blindly here.

hungryhorace

Thanks and will try to get the recording, that said I do need to replace all the drop links but had forgotten, could be that.

garye

you said fart!!

Dano523

New OEM end link are around $100 for all 4 and not a bad habit to just replace them every few year if you are driving the car hard. This gives you a reason/ puts you under the car to check out the rest at the same time.

http://www.cultragfactoryparts.com/

P.S, if its after market height adjusters that the pads have failed, good luck on finding after marker replacements that will not do the same a quickly. As for finding OEM's, GM does not sell them individual (have to buy the entire spring, or sucker someone into selling you the ones they have, before the realize how fast the aftermarket ones fail they just put on, and want to put the OEM's back on).

hungryhorace

All stock thankfully, downside is location. Will get some ordered ta for the link

Dano523

Just notice the location,
Must be hell driving a yank car abroad; stick shift/drivers seat on the wrong side of the car and all. Let me guess, faking it as a yank abroad, and now feel compelled to order everything with Cheese on it?

hungryhorace

Getting parts can be interesting, for example I was recently quoted nearly 300 dollars to supply and fit a stock air filter, so I picked one up when in Buffalo and fitted myself for 70 dollars (plus flights....). luckily there is a massive market for LSx engines here but its the specialised parts like the drop links thats the problem


Its easy enough to drive, its my first wrong side car but the gear change feels so much more natural as I am right handed. The only real downside is driving at night, oncoming lights seem a bit brighter due to their pattern bu the car gets thumbs up everywhere.

NEed to give it a good wash,, use it as a daily even in the recent 28f and below - entertaining on roundabouts.

And doesnt everything come with cheese on it?

bstedman

have the exhaust manifolds recently been removed/replaced? If so, the majority of the people having noise after replacement find the connection brackets for the downpipe from exhaust manifold to mid pipe hitting against the tunnel which sounds like a rear end noise. The downpipe has the catalytic converter and tends to warp on disconnect and makes the pipe rub up against the tunnel. you should be able to see scratch marks on the heat shield in the tunnel near the bracket.

hungryhorace

thanks for the pointer, its not to my knowledge but am having the cat back switched for a custom set up in a few months anyway.

I will take a look though

Txcowboy13

I recently replaced the rear bearing hubs on my 2007 C6, It was making a grinding- roaring noise which was the bearing hub on the driver side at 114,000 miles. I made the mistake of replacing them with Duralast from Autozone and got a bad remanufacture bearing hub. After replacing the hubs I notice that the sound was still present, so I google problem and took to 3 mechanic shops. The 3rd shop had me convience that it might be a bearing , knowing it had just been replaced. So I removed the driver side hub and found that it would not turn freely like a bearing should. Autozone replaced free , and I installed it. Took about 1.5 hours if that to replace. There are videos on youtube on how to change and the tools needed to make the change. It will cost about $ 1000 to have a local shop change them. Had trouble trying to remove one hub because the spline axle was stuck inside of the hub, had to beat with a maul to loosen it from the axle. This is an example that you can get bad parts somtimes. The bearing hub was the problem, enjoying my ride again.

Txcowboy13

I recently replaced the rear bearing hubs on my 2007 C6, It was making a grinding- roaring noise which was the bearing hub on the driver side at 114,000 miles. I made the mistake of replacing them with Duralast from Autozone and got a bad remanufacture bearing hub. After replacing the hubs I notice that the sound was still present, so I google problem and took to 3 mechanic shops. The 3rd shop had me convience that it might be a bearing , knowing it had just been replaced. So I removed the driver side hub and found that it would not turn freely like a bearing should. Autozone replaced free , and I installed it. Took about 1.5 hours if that to replace. There are videos on youtube on how to change and the tools needed to make the change. It will cost about $ 1000 to have a local shop change them. Had trouble trying to remove one hub because the spline axle was stuck inside of the hub, had to beat with a maul to loosen it from the axle. This is an example that you can get bad parts somtimes. The bearing hub was the problem, enjoying my ride again

hungryhorace

ok, out for a drive today and listening to the noise it is definitely not a hub or bearing, i dont think it is even suspension related. It sounds like its the rear hatch door or something in the boot/trunk.

When I try to close the rear hatch i have to push it down and it does make very similar noise. I am wondering now if this noise I am hearing is in relation to the hatch/latch?

again thanks for the posts and ideas

Dano523

Your Z does not have the hatch assist closer. GM ditch that to lose some weight on the z cars (with the exception of the 2009), with just a manual latching closer instead (read you have to close the hatch on the harder side to get it to latch, since your Z does not have the pull down feature like the base model).

As for something loose in the rear bumper cover, could be, but kind of a pain to get to that area to check it out.


https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...er-anyone.html

If i sounds more like a squeaking noise, when was the last time you lubed the seal/hatch adjustment bumper stops on the rear hatch (little dielectric grease is just the ticket)?

timd38

Does the car have lowering bolts or did anyone cut the rubber on the height adjustment bolts?

2k Cobra

Had a "Grinding Noise" on my C5Z. Found it to be a small pebble caught in the rear brake by the pad and rotor..

Worth a look..