eagletwo

I have a 2005 C6 had it in the dealership for some belt changes and the dealership says I have a belt Tensioner pully that has a lot of wear and will need to be changed soon. They told me the part was about $80 but the labor would be 6hrs. Is that true??

ErnieN85

No way, you can buy one for less $50 at any autoparts.
a belt tool for $30 take the old one in to match up and your good to go maybe 1/2 hr to do (first time)

4SUMERZ

AzMotorhead

Ask them whats worn on a Belt tensioner pulley.
Pulley is steel it's not going to wear against a rubber belt.
Spring tension bad?? Probably not. The tensioner has marks on it so you know when belt is exceeding its stretch.
Bearing going bad? maybe but you're going to hear that making noise.
IMHO They're full of it and want your money.
BTW the belt tensioner tool is a 15mm wrench.

cclive

Usually it's the bearing on a tensioner pulley that goes bad. With many of them, you can replace just the pulley wheel/bearing and not the entire arm also. Six hours is ridiculous. One hour maybe.

HBsurfer

One bolt to remove the tensioner pulley. The pulley is not a special item. It is usually in stock at Auto Zone or O Reilly. Like. AZ Motörhead said, there is not special tool. A 15mm open end wrench releases the tension and the belt slides right off. Belt removal take less than a minute. Make note of the routing so you can put it back on properly.

timd38

The 1/2 hour would include driving the car into shop and cleaning the tools. I put a Katech one on and it took longer to get the tools than to do the job.

AORoads

Does anyone else have this "feeling" that the dealer/service is talking about the harmonic balancer, based on the number of hours quoted? Or, got the two confused on number of hours to replace?

Just came across the other thread by OP; looks a bit confused as to what is being stated as the problem.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...er-for-c6.html

cclive

I thought about that Bill, but the price for the replacement part was way off, so I figured that the dealer was either way off on the part price or way off on the labor...I went with the labor....LOL.

AORoads

That IS funny, Chris. I'll go either way on this one.

Dano523

To add on the pulley bearings, most of the time if you catch it soon enough, the bearing is not bad, but just dry instead (read not enough grease used when the bearings where first assemblies).

You just need to pull the pulley off to get to the bearings, and pull the bearing seals covers off, clean the bearing and re-grease the bearings. pop the seal covers back on, and put the pulley back on.

victorf

Suggestion above should only be used where no substitute can be found, only if bearing is absolutely on its last leg and under an emergent situation. Emergent repaired should be replaced ASAP, unless, it is in a Third World....

In short, if bearing grease is dried - you have a bad bearing. If it is not that bad, than, why fool with it!

Physical attribute on sealed bearing cover consist of a precise engineered fit to retain lubs, at the same time, prevent entry of contamination for the life of bearing unit and if removed after initial install, seal is violated and will never be the same.

Consider the efforts of the above, a replacement quality bearing can be had for under $10 from various reputable sits - if indeed, culprit is the bearing.

On my Katech Tensioner, I changed out its new Chinese bearing with an American made, before install for under $10:

victorf

Highlighted for additional clarification on original posted two points.