Jcbarr25

I need some input from all you corvette owners. Let's start. I bought a used 2010 corvette grand sport with 13600 miles. Ever since I bought the car, I have had issues with my second gear. I really didn't realize on the test drive cuz I probably was too excited and I figured that the tranny was a more stiff than my previous car. ( first corvette ever). Anyways. The problem is that most of the time, it is hard for me to shift from 1st to 2nd. Like I have to force it into second sometimes. Other times, it works perfectly find. I have tried shifting at different RPMs and it seems to make a difference. I have tried shifting before going over 15mph and had no issues. Tried shifting over 2k rpms and had little issues. Anything under 2k rpms will make it hard to engage and it feels like the gear isn't even engaged. Today, I started from a dead stop in second gear and it was hard to engage and the car actually popped out of gear. Usually I can shift to second from a dead stop with no issue at all. I read the recommended shifting speeds on the manual and it seems that at 15mph, I can shift into second, no issues. On the other hand, downshifting into second is almost impossible. Unless the car is going under 20mph. To downshift, I have to literally force it. For an instance, Im driving, curve is coming up, I like to slow down and engage 2nd to go at the curve. Car won't do it easily. However, 3rd engages smoothly.
Now. The solution I am trying is changing the clutch fluid. Previous owner must have not known about it. When I checked it, the fluid was black and gunky. Since then, I have been using the ranger protocol. I have done it about 5 times. Fluid still becomes dark after one use. So I am in the process of making sure it is all clean and stays clear. Since I started this, though, the shifting into second has improved. But still not where I think it should be.
I just ordered tranny fluid and differential fluid to do the fluid change. Will do next Monday.
Now what can I do? Is this normal? This is the first car that I have with tranny issues. Previous car will shift into any gear no problem. Normal? Abnormal? Bad clutch? Bad tranny? What should I do? I have an extended warranty so I'm thinking any actual work will be covered. But I don't want a rebuilt tranny. How hard would it be to have the warranty covered for a brand new one?
Please any suggestion will help. The only bad part is that I'm about to leave for over six months. Car will be parked for that period.

Gray Ghost GS

I recommend using Royal Purple Synchromax transmission fluid when you change it. Also, did the previous owner install an aftermarket shifter? Is the 1-4 Skip Shift activating? Did you install a CAGS skip shift elimination module? (highly recommended). What you're describing is not normal. Possibly a bad syncro? I recommend leveraging your extended warranty to resolve the problem, which doesn't have to be the dealership; some Corvette shops are qualified to perform service under GMPP extended warranties. Mike

Jcbarr25

I purchased the AcDelco fluid for manual transmission. Figured I stick with OEM. But I can look into royal purple. Is it that much better than stock?. I don't know how to tell if it has an aftermarket shifter but I doubt it. Car is pretty much stock. The skip shift function is being activated. I have not installed the module to disable that. But I will. Any suggestion? Fuse or actual connector by tranny?
I didn't get the GMPP. Its a different company which I was told I could use any shop of my preference. Not taking it to the dealer. Unless I find a really good one.

Gray Ghost GS

Many of us that road race (HPDE, time trials and W2W) select the Royal Purple Syncromax fluid over the AcDelco fluid, which actually improves shifting performance while protecting parts during high temp performance driving. I prefer the CAGS module that plugs into the transmission - used the same version one for both my C5 race car and C6 GS.

Dano523

What color is the clutch fluid in the reserve tank? Anything short of clear orso slight amber, then the clutch fluid needs to be changed,



Once the fluid is clean and staying clear after fluid changes, then are you Heal/toeing on the hard braking to bring the revs up before you try down shifting in to the lower gear before it's really needed?



From there, that someone had an after market shifter in the car, pulled it and did not index the old shifter when they put it back in,

Or, may be that the trans fluid needs to be changed

Or was just the previous owner abusing the trans by sling shot'g from first to second up and down, and worn out the sync's instead.

So that note, would start with the shifter to make sure that it's indexed correctly, then move to the trans oil change if shifter re-indexing did not make a difference, and lastly, have the trans checked to see if it needs to be rebuilt instead.

Jcbarr25

Can you direct MW on how to properly index the shifter??

Thanks

timd38

If you live near Milwaukee, stop and we will fill it with Red Line D4 and see if it fixes it.

I have a lift and all the tools to do it.

Jcbarr25

Thank you very much for this. But I am located in San Francisco Area. Wish I was closeer.

timd38

Our plant is in Benicia, but we don't have a shop there.

Jcbarr25

No way...err. Ok. Thanks for the offoffer anyways.

Dano523

Bear with me since i need to walk you through it in stages,(read have the service manual on DVD so hard to post photo of it from the Document ID: 239720) .

This is to get to the shifter in the first place, and you need to follow along all the way up to 13:20, hence not to to the point of removing the shifter plate and shaft off the lower housing.

Once you are in this far, pull the E brake, and make sure that the shifter is in neutral!!!!



We are going to use this photo since it shows all three silver torque bolts, hence the two right hand side T-40 that bolt the lower housing down to the car, and the shifter coupling T-40 bolt as well .



So start off with see the condition of the rubber bushing on the shifter housing itself. If they are shot/crumbing apart, then we need to first replace these.

Here is the link for new Poly bushings.
http://blog.zip-corvette.com/corvett...97-2012-c5-c6/.

If the bushings need to be replace, remove the two side T-40 bolt, remove the coupling T-40 bolt, and remove the entire shifter and lower housing from the car.

Also with the shifter out of the car, good time to clean it up as well. So to do this, 4 plate bolts to remove the shift **** from the lower housing, then screws on the front plastic piece to pull it and the lower house rod out of the lower housing out to clean all the parts, then put it all back together with everything super lubed, including the lower shifter ball bushing to the lower house rod and shifter rod end ball.
Note :Touch of blue loctite all around on the bolts/screws as you are reassembling the shifter to lower housing and putting it back together.

Stock shifter on the right so you can see the ball bushing that needs to be lubed, and note that this is a Z06 car with solid bushing, not the rubber or poly bushing instead.



Back to the program of indexing the shifter,

With the shifter in neutral still, start by pressing the the front rod of the stock shifter index lock pin down to lock the shifter in neutral position. It's the silver pin in the front plastic piece that should be in the up position now, and depending on how off the index is , may have to loosen the side T-40 first or fiddle with the shaft.


Now loosen the two side T40 bolts and allow the entire lower housing to relax into it nature position. Next loose then T-30coupler bushing bolt and allow the shifter rod to the trans to relax in the coupling too.

Now slide the lower housing to center the Side T40 bolts to the center of the bushing slots, remove the coupler T30 bolt, put a drop of Blue loctite on the threads of the T40,, then tighten it back up to 22 ft lbs while making sure that you are not torquing the shaft to one side in the coupling and the T40 side bolt as kind of staying centered in the lower housing slot. The back shaft as a slot through it, but there is some slop in the slot to all you to move the lower housing a touch up or back if needed when tightening up the coupler.

Next, pulling them out one by one, light drop of Blue loctite on the lower housing T-40 bolt threads, and tighten them to 22 ft lbs as well.

Now pull the shifter lock pin up/back to it up position, and put the parts back on that you pulled via the first video.


All done,!!!
Note: short of you pulled the shifter and lower box apart to clean it up and relube it, and found that the rod through the lower housing bushings was as sloppy as BB's through a box car. If such is the case, GM only sells the lower box as a complete replacement, but it not hard to polish out the rod, and make PTFE bushing to replace the stock worn out bushing instead (lathe does come in handy for this).

Dano523

Double post

Dano523

Double post again.

Jcbarr25

Wow... That is really detailed. Thank you very much. So pretty much, lock the shifter in neutral and untight all the torx bolts, recenter everything and retighten? When you talk about the coupler bushing, is that the middle.one closer to driver?
Kinda seems complicated! But that's probably me because I don't want to damage anything. Honestly I think this will have to wait until I get back from my deployment.

When I get back I'll be upgrading my radio too so maybe I can do all that then. Plus I can save up for the MGW shifter if I want to go that way. For now, I will keep trying to clean my clutch fluid and will change my transmission oil.
Also, I order the skip shift eliminator, will install that soon too.

If the shifter is indexed improperly, should I be having the issue all the time? Just curious. It just seems that it happens in certain moments.

AORoads

Not to offend, but can we expect that you know about the CAGS and a skip shift eliminator? That's besides all the fluids, Ranger, shifter alignment index, new shifter, *****, etc.

Jcbarr25

Know what about the CAGS and skip shift eliminator?

AORoads

That they exist and affect the shifting of your car at certain speeds.

Begins on page 3-32 of your owner's manual. "Shift Speeds (Manual Transmission)
{ WARNING:
If you skip a gear when you downshift, you could
lose control of the vehicle. You could injure
yourself or others. Do not shift down more than
one gear at a time when you downshift.
This chart shows when to shift to the next higher gear
for the best fuel economy.
Manual Transmission Recommended
Shift Speeds in mph (km/h)
Engine
Acceleration Shift Speed
1 to 2 2 to 3 3 to 4 4 to 5 5 to 6
All
Engines
15 (24) 25 (40) 40 (64) 45 (72) 50 (80)
If the engine speed drops below 900 rpm, or if the
engine is not running smoothly, you should downshift to
the next lower gear. You may have to downshift two or
more gears to keep the engine running smoothly or for
good engine performance.
Notice: When shifting gears, do not move the shift
lever around unnecessarily. This may damage the
transmission. Shift directly into the next gear.
One to Four Shift Light
(Manual Transmission)
When this light comes on,
you can only shift from
1 (First) to 4 (Fourth)
instead of 1 (First) to
2 (Second).
See One-to-Four Shift Light (Manual Transmission) on
page 4‑36 for more information.
3...."

Jcbarr25

I know they exist. Last car was a camaro which also has that feature. And Its happened to me multiple times. But it doesn't affect second the way it does to mine. Unless I am getting too close to the parameters and shifting.

Jcbarr25

Seriously?? My issues isn't the CAGS being active and me being a idiot trying to shift I to second. If you would have taken the time to read my OP, I mentioned I have read the manual and about the shifting for manual transmission.. Thanks for bringing it up anyways. Many ppl probably don't reat it at all

AORoads

I gotta laff~! I guess you don't read very well either.

"I read the recommended shifting speeds on the manual .. ." and that says you know all about CAGS, skip shift, etc., right? No.

In my first post, what were my first three words since you can read so well? Let me summarize: "Not to offend,..."

Again, not to offend, but if you have so much experience with Camaros and your first Vette, how come you don't know what's wrong with your shifting or trans problems are? Maybe you need to read up a little more with your obvious search capabilities on CF as to who has had what issues and the solutions posted, rather than just seeking the quick answer by posting a question.

Now, if that offends you, well, it's all true, isn't it? Go find the answer yourself.