Dano523

Something does not sound right, unless your where running in comp or full off mode.

In standard Nannie's full on, the TC should be clipping power when the wheels start to spin to begin with.

Seadawg

If I am going in a straight line, like leaving from a red light, mine will easily spin in 1st gear, and will spin as long as I continue to stay straight, with ALL of the nannies turned on. Once I start drifting sideways, the power is reduced, however.

I rarely get wheel hop, only remember it happening once on partially wet roads, and once at the drag strip when I was using launch control.

My Grand Sport came with the ZR1 axles (since it was a MN6 with magnetic ride suspension), so I'm totally guessing here but maybe the combination of magnetic suspension and axles help me on reducing wheel hop.....

I had the Goodyear GEN2s originally on the car, and on my 2nd set of Bridgestone Potenza RFs, and neither wheel hop when spinning. In fact, I accidentally lit them up on a hard 2nd gear acceleration pulling out of our parking lot yesterday.

cobrachuck

Dano Seadawg,
Thanks for the reply, I don't drive this car much, [have others] Yesterday the nannies were all on below 50 degrees, MN 6 magnetic ride, all stock. I think it's the tires & have never liked these GY F1 tires the front tires skip all the time even pulling out of the drive way.

Dano523

Two different system in effect here,

When moving forward, the VSS sensors (the front and back tires sensors) will check the rotation against each other, and with the nannies on, the traction control should clip power to stop the back tires from spinning (rotating much faster than the front tires). You can get a touch of tire slip before the system will kick in to reduce power, but the amount of rear tire spin that will cause wheel hoop should have the have the power clipped well before that happens with all the nannies on.

When the back end steps out from the front, the Yaw sensor in the car (under the radio) working with the steering wheel sensor (on the column) will detect this instead, and it's Active handing control that will clip power to bring the back end in line with the front. Active handling also works with the ABS to help pull the car out of danger if you get it too out of line as well.


So on that note, might want to check with your tuner, since it sounds like he tuned out TC in the Nannie all on mode, and maybe even disabled power hop control.

Seadawg

Thanks for the extra explanation Dano523. I will check with the tuner, because you brought up some good stuff to check.

However, my 2011 has always "spun easily in a straight line" with all of the nannies on, much more easily than my 2008 C6 did. I just figured they got more aggressive from the factory.

The 2008 would scare me, because it would feel like it would almost stall when pulling out semi-hard from a 90 degree turn. I would almost get run over, trying to get up to speed at severely reduced power.

The 2011 has always fishtailed a little, and been very "smooth" on the reduced throttle, almost letting you kinda power slide if you pull out hard at a 90 degree turn. It has always got to 60 mph quickly, which I like.

But either way, I'm gonna learn more about my present tune

and, to keep it on topic with this thread, the 2008 never wheel hopped either, it would just scare me because it spun so easily in the colder DE climate with the Goodyear tires (it was a Z51 optioned LS3, MN6)

majorpayne317641

The trans brace does reduce wheel hop for me, it can still happen but is much less violent and is not as common.

EvanZR1

My 13 GS even when stock had the same behavior. Not sure if GM changed the TC program, but it would allow a lot of wheelspin in a straight line. Now that I'm at 600RWHP, I can it's even worse. There is a difference with TC on/off, but it really doesn't help a lot in 1st/2nd, where it really helps is 3rd and up at highway speeds (although I can still get some spin even into 4th).

I've got magnetic ride and should have the ZR1 axles as well, but do still see wheel hop occasionally (maybe 15-25% of the time). Probably more so when stock on the GY Gen2s, less so with my PS2s and especially after the blower.

Dano523

Even with the Nannies on, should be able to spin the tires a touch initially, but the nannies should kick in (TC) to stop the spin before it gets out of control. Also to point out, when the TC steps in, should be getting a DIC notice.

So if you can keep the rear tires spinning in standard mode at will (say all the way through a smooth intersection length of time and my favor trick with three gears changes before I get to the other side of the intersection in comp mode), then there is a problem with the TC not activating/kicking in correctly.

scottg

Talked to Doug Rippie today. HE said he puts a lot of ECS braces on our cars. Will not help much from a lot of dig racing or slipping the clutch off the floor. Just alittle more insurance. So I will be putting one on this spring.

timd38

I did it and I hope I never know if it works!

c5racr1

Broken motor mounts will also cause wheel hop

timd38

Lots of people have them and don't know it!

cobrachuck

Had the car out again tonight 35 degrees. 13 GS MN6 adjustable suspension, turned off the TC and buzzed the tires several times under acceleration no wheel hop.
My question is does the TC on cause the hop?

Dano523

Lack of bite/traction will cause the tire spin. Its when the tires are over spun and/or start to bite from launch, looses traction and the wheel start to hop up and down, that the wheel hooping cycle begins.

No, the TC does not cause the wheel hop, and it and power hop control should stop the wheel spin before it gets to the point that that you get wheel hop.

This is wheel hop at launch, and the driver it quick to get off the gas to prevent drive line damage


Here is a slow motion on wheel hop, and each time the tires goes from spinning to getting a bite, it translates a great deal of torque back through the drive line parts. In a vet, the drive line is not set up to take these amounts of torques from wheel as they hop, and will snap parts.

5knives

I've helped push more broken Vettes off the track than I care to count. Most due to broken axles, diffs, trans from wheel hop. Bottom line, if you begin to feel it lift immediately.

thecapo

617rwhp, tubbed, 345's out back, ps2's - just wheel spin in all 4 gears. No traction control. No wheel hop...with exception of rough pavement.

winters97gt

I agree with all of what Gary, Dennis and others have said. C5 cars, in my experience are more prone than C6's to suffer from wheel hop. The placement of the diff is about 1" difference.

The best advice I always give guys drag racing to avoid breaking rear end parts with a high hp stick car are two things. Clutch, and sidewall. Tire compound is also important. But start with the clutch and choosing a tire with sidewall.

GARY2004Z06

They will not fix wheelhop.
You are just spinning the tires which means that you are just falling farther behind the person that is next to you.
That is a good product but will make your car run much rougher on the street by transmitting more vibration through the drivetrain. Those along with their engine mounts, you will no longer need to worry about breaking them. The OEM engine mount usually gives way.

dev1360

GForce1320 identifies wheel hop as the rhythmic twisting and unloading of the axles. During their testing, using different diameter axles stopped the wheel hop.

Things like rubber bushings and parts that "give" all contribute to the vibration worsening.

Zman6

Did you have "wheel hop" before you installed these mounts?

My 11' with manual trans and magnetic ride control hops like crazy. Sometimes it'd be nice to just be able to do a long burnout without letting off cuz of the dam hop.