Sway bar recommendation
#21
I think a lot of the bars are, IIRC, Strano sells both.
Where a lot of marketers miss out, IMHO, is a lack of comparison data so consumers can make informed choices. Pfadt understood this, hence his charts. Hotchkiss understands this too, their bars are listed as comparative stiffness to the Z06 bars which can be translated to the Pfadt chart.
Upgrading or changing sway bars isn't so simple as picking and choosing, however. I think when you are driving a car you have to look at a weakness you've discovered on the roads (or track) you drive on and chose components that overcome the weakness. Otherwise you are wasting time and money and possibly downgrading the performance of the car. Granted GM had to walk the middle of the road in the choices they made, after all not all of us have the skills of a James Hunt or Emmerson Fittipaldi, and it does take a fair amount of training to extract even 7/10's performance from the stock version of the Corvette.
If my car never saw a track nor had I not have a desire to drive a road course, I would go with and OEM upgrade, ie, if a base model go with Z06 bars but stay away from the Z06 shocks. There are some good posts highlighting the mixing of suspension components.
Also remember that shocks and bars are fine tune components, its the springs you have to get right first.
It also helps to do your homework so you know where your efforts need to be expended. Buy a book on suspensions and suspension tuning so you have at least some knowledge of what you are attempting.
Well, that's my .02 worth. Hope it helps.
Where a lot of marketers miss out, IMHO, is a lack of comparison data so consumers can make informed choices. Pfadt understood this, hence his charts. Hotchkiss understands this too, their bars are listed as comparative stiffness to the Z06 bars which can be translated to the Pfadt chart.
Upgrading or changing sway bars isn't so simple as picking and choosing, however. I think when you are driving a car you have to look at a weakness you've discovered on the roads (or track) you drive on and chose components that overcome the weakness. Otherwise you are wasting time and money and possibly downgrading the performance of the car. Granted GM had to walk the middle of the road in the choices they made, after all not all of us have the skills of a James Hunt or Emmerson Fittipaldi, and it does take a fair amount of training to extract even 7/10's performance from the stock version of the Corvette.
If my car never saw a track nor had I not have a desire to drive a road course, I would go with and OEM upgrade, ie, if a base model go with Z06 bars but stay away from the Z06 shocks. There are some good posts highlighting the mixing of suspension components.
Also remember that shocks and bars are fine tune components, its the springs you have to get right first.
It also helps to do your homework so you know where your efforts need to be expended. Buy a book on suspensions and suspension tuning so you have at least some knowledge of what you are attempting.
Well, that's my .02 worth. Hope it helps.
#22
Drifting
Member Since: May 2012
Location: Southport North Carolina
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I would never put Z06 sways on a C6 narrow body with base spring rates, unless you really prefer oversteer or are a professional drift driver. LOL!
Last edited by berk4422; 02-21-2015 at 05:29 PM.
#23
I have greater than Z06 sways on my base and I wheel to wheel race, there is no danger, it's a cheap and easy way to make the car more neutral. The ratio of the springs are so safe on the base that there is nothing to worry about, all that I noticed negatively was that the was was now under-sprung and under dampened which is why I now have Z06 shocks and a Z51 front spring to install and hopefully clean things up.
#24
Race Director
great, then I'll ask you. I have the 013 base a6 and thinking about changing the suspension just a tad. what's the best course of action I should take; if any? thank you.
#25
Hey fellas,
I'm looking to upgrade the sway bars on my '13 A6 base car (narrow body, not Z51) soon, and I'm not quite sure what I should get. I'm running:
DRM Bilstein shocks with poly bushings
stock size, non-runflat Michelin PSS
I have no plans to add a widebody, change tire sizes/brands/compounds, or change to coilovers in the future. I will be upgrading the brakes a bit, eventually.
The car is a DD, and my only car; that said, I do go to the road course 2-3 times a year, and I'm really looking to improve handling without sacrificing drivability (much).
So far, I've glanced at the GM t-1 setup, Pfadt JOC, and OEM Z51 or Z06 sways. I haven't really begun to look into endlinks, etc.
Any knowledge/opinions are welcome. Thanks!
I'm looking to upgrade the sway bars on my '13 A6 base car (narrow body, not Z51) soon, and I'm not quite sure what I should get. I'm running:
DRM Bilstein shocks with poly bushings
stock size, non-runflat Michelin PSS
I have no plans to add a widebody, change tire sizes/brands/compounds, or change to coilovers in the future. I will be upgrading the brakes a bit, eventually.
The car is a DD, and my only car; that said, I do go to the road course 2-3 times a year, and I'm really looking to improve handling without sacrificing drivability (much).
So far, I've glanced at the GM t-1 setup, Pfadt JOC, and OEM Z51 or Z06 sways. I haven't really begun to look into endlinks, etc.
Any knowledge/opinions are welcome. Thanks!
The spring you should be able find used, as well as the sway bars for around $200 for all three with the sway bushing as well. If not then check around since you should be able to get the Z-51 sways front and back for around $200 new, and the spring for around $125 new.
This should balance out the car front to back pretty well to make the car more predicable when it does get to the point of letting loose, as well as keep the car slightly over steering so you don't end up with a snap over steering problems and the back just trying to come out and around on you every chance it gets.
Note: over springing/over sway barring may work on a slow speed parking lot tracks to turn the car into a "Pan car", but when you start pushing speeds, this will be the end of you; hence the car will end up dancing all over the place instead of tracking the road correctly, and the back end is going to let go, way, way sooner then front end sliding with the back end in a corner when over pushed instead.