GhostC6

I have done searches and have not found a thread about this so I thought I would post one. I have found a ton about C5 and comparing C5 and C6 tubes but not my question.

Once the rear cradle and transmission and differential are removed. How much more difficult is it to remove the torque tube and then how difficult is it to install new couplers. I noticed that several things on each end need to be removed to get to the couplers. Is anything damaged in the removal process that has to be replaced?

I was looking at replacing the bearings and the sling thing but the bearings are around $300 to $350 for the 3 so not wanting to do that, that's why I am curious if anything has to be replaced just because you replace the couplers.

Also, any advice, tips and etc on removing and replacing the tube will be appreciated. I know about keeping the tube supported and the engine supported to avoid damage from tilting it. Just curious what else I need to know.

We all discover something when we work on our cars that if we had known that before it would have made it a lot faster, that is also something I am looking for.

Thanks, if anyone has a step by step to replace these couplers that would be great also, any certain end to remove the shaft from or anything.

Thanks to you all.

GhostC6

So has no one installed new couplers either OEM Rubber, Polyurethane or Billet Aluminum on the propeller shaft on a C6 Corvette? Anyone have any information on this at all?

sr20dime

I did a carbon fiber drive shaft in my car, replaced all the bearings and did a billet coupler in the rear rear with a dss poly coupler in the front. You need a good set of snap ring pliers to take the shafts out of the tube and a press to do the bearings.
You need a big impact torx bit for the couplers if I remember right.

Several venders told me "I've never seen bad torque tube bearings" but All of mine were completely shot. I took mine off and went to granger industrial supply and bought my bearings for less than 100 bux if I recall correctly. The one pressed on dust cover was less than 20 from my GM dealer.

GhostC6

That is what I am concerned about? How was it getting the tube out without leaning it to far? I do not have plans on replacing the bearings but I am afraid that when we get it out to replace the couplers, one OEM in the front and the Six Shooter Polyurethane one in the back that we may find the bearings are shot, then since no one here stocks them, much less at a decent price, time and extra money will be lost. I found the bearing, seals and the slinger for $250 shipped which is the best I have found so far, most places it is $375 for it. I figure mine are probably not in the best shape considering the miles on it 80K, so I am not sure what to do.

Is getting the tube out of the car any problem, and the driveline out of the tube? What end does it pull out from, the back? Do you track your or a lot of mods and what mileage was on yours when you did this? Do you think at 80K mine should be done? I am replacing the couplers cause I figure with the miles on them they may be getting weak, that got me concerned about the bearings. What do you think?

schpenxel

Once the assembly is out, it is very easy to remove the torque tube

When disassembling the torque tube the hardest part is getting the massive snap ring off. It's nearly the diameter of the torque tube and you'll need heavy duty snap ring pliers to have any chance of getting it off. I used ones from Harbor Freight but had to grind the tips down to make them a little smaller.. I had to use the pliers to get a small gap that I could stick a screwdriver in, then worked it off from there

Other than that it's easy

I used the Lemforder bushings. Most say to NOT use two solid couplers except in extreme setups. At most, use one solid and one that has some give.

Do NOT pay $350 for the bearings. Here are the ones you need:





You'll need two of one of them and one of another.. I can't remember which is which. Order two of both and send one back

If you have any questions about pulling it out just let me know. I've done it 3 times in the last 6 months.

schpenxel

I posted the links to the bearings.. they are generic bearings. There are cheaper brands but Timken is supposed to be a good brand

You DO need to buy a slinger if you are replacing the front bearing. RPM has them or any GM parts place can get them. You will need a press to get the bearings off/on if you do replace them. I have the part number around here somewhere if you need it

In regards to leaning the tube too far, you're way over thinking it. Just open the hood and look. It's not delicate to the point that it's going to shatter as soon as the intake touches the firewall. I've never had a problem with it while doing it on the ground on jack stands.

GhostC6

OH WOW, I will admit that I am guilty of over thinking almost everything. Sometimes I have too much down time and I tend to over think stuff, well, I do over think stuff. I went ahead and bought the 3 bearings, the slinger thing and 3 seals. Like I had said I have a new OEM Type Rubber coupler and the Prothane Six Shooter Polyurethane Coupler for the other.

I am having my transmission rebuilt so I figured while it is out I would do this as a preventative measure. Then, the more I researched the more I thought I should replace.

Talk about over thinking things, while my mechanic was sick and I was looking into my transmission, I realized I wanted more High Performance stuff than he normally used so I went on a shopping spree. Needless to say, I now have all the parts to rebuild it to what many call a level 4 or 5 transmission. It should one heck of a transmission when I get it done next week. If you read all the parts and stuff in the Level 4 and Level 5 transmissions, I pretty much have all that and maybe more. I have 3 large boxes of parts, I really, really, really over thought it bad. As a matter of fact, he is charging me more instead of less because of all the extra parts I bought that are not normally replaced...lol That's what I get for over thinking...lol

schpenxel

haha well at least it'll be nice when it's done

Let me know if any questions on pulling everything out or on the torque tube. I changed all the torque tube bearing myself and have pulled the torque tube back a few times now.. so I can help there.

Biggest thing that helped me was getting a jack "cross beam" from harbor freight.. you can see it hooked to the jack holding the rear cradle up. Then I got their cheapest transmission jack which fit the torque tube perfectly up towards the front. This last time it came out way easier than any time before

GhostC6

Does pulling this mess up the alignment any? I wish I had the Poly Control Arm Bushing Kit already, looks like an ideal time to do that at least on the top any way.

Why have you pulled so many, is it the same car or different cars?

schpenxel

I'm not 100% sure on the alignment. There is a little bit of play where the subframe meets up with the frame rails, so I do think it probably could change the alignment slightly. I don't think you can guarantee it goes in exactly the same, but I doubt it's enough to matter personally.

Just don't mess with the lower control arm bolts.. those will very much affect the alignment. The top ones aren't adjustable so thats why I took those out instead

First time was years ago on a C5 to change the clutch

First time on my current C6 was to replace torque tube bearings

Second time on C6 was to replace the clutch/slave

And the current time is because I screwed up the clutch install so I am having to change it. I didn't clean the ARP lube off of the ARP flywheel bolts well enough, so it slung all over the flywheel then pretty much destroyed the flywheel. Not a cheap mistake! Mantic 9000 clutch.

GhostC6

Oh wow, sound like something I would do, Fix a $100 part and break a $200 part doing it. I am glad you chimed in on this thread, you do have lots of experience.

schpenxel

First time I've used ARP hardware too, lol. I hope to have it back together next weekend.. waiting on new clutch/slave to ship

No problem.. Just let me know if you have any questions. I also have some pictures around here somewhere I can send you of the torque tube assembly/disassembly I think

edit: scratch that.. I only have a few pictures that aren't much help. Ah well, I still know how it goes back together so let me know if you need help.

GhostC6

That would be great, send to Ghost@2wheelphotosports.com

GhostC6

Well get that thing back together, and pack up your tools and head this way..lol

Where in NC are you?

schpenxel

Towards the middle.. around Greensboro. I go through Nashville/Chattanooga pretty often. Which side of the state are you on?

GhostC6

I am in North East Tennessee, Kingsport, Johnson City, near Bristol

Whis9

great info

Unreal

My only addition to this is for really high HP builds I would just skip the couplers. They are just another thing to fail. Go with a couplerless shaft.

CMY SIX

I swear I'm coming to Greensboro when it time for bearings, might as well throw a clutch in while I'm there.

schpenxel

lol, I won't be in town that weekend