srtrich

Hello all, I know this is a very heavily discussed issue with 2005 c6's but I am not having any luck finding a fix on line for this issue without visiting the dealership. So here it is:

My car had the "Service Column Lock" message 2 years ago so I purchased the Corvettes of Huston CLE. Car worked great for 2 years with no issues. Now when I go to start the car sometimes it will start and some time it wont. I have a brand new battery in the car and just got the alternator tested today with everything being good. Even with the car started I now get the SCL message. Column no longer lock because the pin has been removed from the lock all together. Anyone have a way to completely get rid of this message forever? Any idea where i should continue my search? I was thinking of getting my starter looked at next.

srtrich

Just took apart my dash and noticed when my Column lock module is unplugged the car no longer gets the message (but obviously wont start since the computer is missing). Then I plug the CLM in and the message comes back and the car starts (the CLM makes a ticking sound every time I attempt to start it.

VET4LES

This subject came up yesterday and this was my answer.

If you were having problems with the column lock before installing the bypass that could be the problem. This was an issue when Corvettes of Houston came out with the bypass. The bypass could not fix and existing issue. You could try contacting Corvettes of Houston.

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Last edited by VET4LES; Yesterday at 02:30 PM.

srtrich

thanks for the responce VET4LES. I contacted them and we couldn't really resolve the issue i want to send it in to them but they say that they rarely go bad. Car worked with no issues for 2 years with the bypass. Any way of testing the bypass to see if it went bad? my research lead to the CLM get 2 signals from the column lock. 1 signal to start the car and a 2nd signal to make sure the lock is operating correctly. While fiddling with the column lock eliminators wires I was able to get the car to start flawlessly without messages. (this makes me think the eliminator started to short but I never designed it so I don't know)

I also read the steering column lock sticky for my initial search but it was for c5's

VET4LES

I would remove the column lock bypass and see what happens.

srtrich

I tried with out the bypass and it would not start. I measured resistance on the column lock eliminator and could not get a reading. Im thinking the CLE has gone bad.

srtrich

Anyone have any other tips on things to check?

srtrich

Also if anyone happens to know exactly how the column lock eliminator works (what color cable does what and what the internals consist of) or point me in the right direction that would be great. Im having trouble shifting through the c5 and c6 articles.

Dano523

The lock eliminator is just a latching relay, with two different resistors.

The red and black wires switches the latching relay on the relay coil side to lock either in one direction of the other, So to latch the 12 volt relay in one direction, momentary 12v+ to the red, 12V- to the black. To latch the relay in the other direction, 12v+ to the black and 12v- to the red.

Now on the green wires off the relay contractor side, there are two different resistors, and depending the way that that relay is latched, this will give a different Resistance reading across the two green wires.

So the way it works,

You hit the start button, the car send out the needed voltage to the red/black wires to the relay, and it latches to the unlock position, the Green wires change their resistance across them so the car thinks that the steering lock is unlocked.

When you shut the car off, the car again sends out voltage to the relay (polarities switch to the red/black wire) to put the relay in the locked position, the green wires change there resistance, and the car now thinks that the steering lock is in the locked position instead.

The power switching signal is only monetary for about a second for the steering wheel lock, and if the car does not get the needed resistance value change back on the Green wires soon enough as it sending out the monetary voltage then the car goes will DIC the dreaded service message and the car can not be started.

As for the difference between the 2005 and the C5, the C5 had the same resistance value for unlocked and locked on the green wires, while on the 2005, the resistance is different for locked and unlocked positions instead.

As for building one, Mouser has all the part for around $20, but me posting the details/parts list on now to do such, will pretty much get me banned on the spot (so don't ask).

As for the eliminator being defected, 99% of the time, it's the relay posts that was over heated during soldering, and you have a problem with the Green wire resistance change (read with the relay latched to one position, will have no resistance across the green wires).


As for the actual module that the eliminator plugs into (behind the gauges), if you are having a problem with it, 99% of the time (no voltage out on the red/black wires), just a worn relay in the unit, which can be replaced instead of having to replace the entire unit (relay is around $4, and mouser again). Same goes for the RCDLR (above the radio) that is down line of the steering control lock module, as well at the Electronic body control module (under the passenger foot well) that is down line of the RCDLR.

srtrich

Dano523 thanks that was exactly what I was looking for and will post up with my update.

Dano523

Your first step should be going through all the modules to unplug the connectors, break out a can of spray electrical contact cleaner to clean both the connector and socket pins, then before you plug them back in, a little dielectric grease.


Since you are on the coast with high humidity and sea water, if you really want to see how bad the connectors will corrode from just that, then pull the door release and take a look at them for starters.

sallen619

If you are hearing this sound then the column lock eliminator does not appear to be working in my opinion. It should not be attempting to engage if it was operating properly.

I would replace it.

srtrich

Yea I get a clicking sound and I have tested the resistance on the column lock eliminator again with it failing the test. Looks to me like it is def the column lock eliminator.

I contacted Corvettes of Huston to see if they would honor their 3 year warranty two days ago so now I'm just waiting on a response from them. I'm hoping they stand by their product because I really need to get my car up and running asap.

srtrich

Great News they 2 day aired me a new unit!

VET4LES

Good news. COH are good people.