Cam Install Questions
#1
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '14
Cam Install Questions
I am getting ready to start buying parts for my cam install. I wanted to get some input. I am trying not to buy "unnecessary" parts. So I am going with a TSP 228R 112LSA (.588). My car is bone stock LS2 with 15k miles on it. I will be upgrading to ported heads.
1. Can i get by with stock springs?
2. Can I get by with stock lifters?
3. Timing chain?
4. Link to build thread with gaskets etc listed.
1. Can i get by with stock springs?
2. Can I get by with stock lifters?
3. Timing chain?
4. Link to build thread with gaskets etc listed.
#3
#4
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '14
I am try to do a budget build so only whats needed. If i did all the things I should do while im in there its no longer a feasible project and the list could be a million miles long. I am getting a set of ported heads that a buddy has. it has upgraded springs on it from his build but one of the springs broke so I may just replace the one that broke. he was running 600+ SC. I am getting a valve job and resurfacing just in case.
#5
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NCM Sinkhole Donor
I am try to do a budget build so only whats needed. If i did all the things I should do while im in there its no longer a feasible project and the list could be a million miles long. I am getting a set of ported heads that a buddy has. it has upgraded springs on it from his build but one of the springs broke so I may just replace the one that broke. he was running 600+ SC. I am getting a valve job and resurfacing just in case.
#7
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NCM Sinkhole Donor
That can be replaced without taking the engine apart. Head gaskets can be almost $100, so don't forget them! You will also need head bolts, another $100.
Last edited by timd38; 03-23-2015 at 04:02 PM.
#9
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NCM Sinkhole Donor
Don't forget to budget for new oil and filter, coolant, spark plugs (maybe), wires (maybe), belts (maybe), front seal, power steering hose (maybe, known to fail and easy to replace when apart) and harmonic balance bolt. If you think about it, oil, coolant head bolts, head gaskets, front seal, HP bolt add about $300 to the job.
#10
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '14
Don't forget to budget for new oil and filter, coolant, spark plugs (maybe), wires (maybe), belts (maybe), front seal, power steering hose (maybe, known to fail and easy to replace when apart) and harmonic balance bolt. If you think about it, oil, coolant head bolts, head gaskets, front seal, HP bolt add about $300 to the job.
#11
It is absolutely NOT a necessity.
It is just good insurance for a motor and harmonic balancer that is going to see new power levels and most likely increased RPM’s, resulting different harmonic’s than it’s ever experienced before.
I would not do a cam change on an 8-10 year motor and harmonic balancer without changing the HB, but that’s just my opinion.
BTW…my opinion and $5 will get you a good cup of coffee at Starbucks
Keep us up to date on your build
It is just good insurance for a motor and harmonic balancer that is going to see new power levels and most likely increased RPM’s, resulting different harmonic’s than it’s ever experienced before.
I would not do a cam change on an 8-10 year motor and harmonic balancer without changing the HB, but that’s just my opinion.
BTW…my opinion and $5 will get you a good cup of coffee at Starbucks
Keep us up to date on your build
#12
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '14
HAHAA im taking your opinion to starbuck today to redeem my coffee. I would say that i agree on the 8-10 year old motor being a factor if there was appropriate miles to back that up. I have 15k miles on the car. I dont see the HB as something that will effect a 15k mile car.
#13
Safety Car
For what its worth, I've had 2 c6s now and had to replace the first HB at 54k miles on the '05 and at 4k miles on my '12. Mileage isn't a safety net with the balancers on these cars.
#14
Safety Car
I am try to do a budget build so only whats needed. If i did all the things I should do while im in there its no longer a feasible project and the list could be a million miles long. I am getting a set of ported heads that a buddy has. it has upgraded springs on it from his build but one of the springs broke so I may just replace the one that broke. he was running 600+ SC. I am getting a valve job and resurfacing just in case.
Last edited by irok; 03-23-2015 at 10:52 PM.
#15
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '14
if one spring broke the prudent thing to do would be replace all.dont count on that stock hb.get an ATI with cosmetic blem if you can find one.call ATI at 410 298 4343 to see if they may have one for you.an ARP crank bolt will make the job a lot easier and replace the oil pump pick up tube o-ring.you will be cursing that o-ring at start up and no oil pressure
#16
Pro
My car is a 2011 with 6200 miles on it when the cam swap was done. While replacing the valve springs, keepers, locks and pushrods for the new cam they found a broken valve spring. They also installed a new cam gear, ATI Balancer and cross drilled the crank to pin the new balancer. I suggest all of the above. Speed is Not Cheap!
#18
Tech Contributor
Ported heads aren't going to do much as your ls2 intake is the bottleneck. A used FAST will do a lot more for you and is easier to install.
Couldn't agree more with others that I'd replace all valve springs. They are wear items and I'd replace every 20k miles.
If you do install heads get Cometic .040 gaskets, they will bump your compression to about 11.4 and give you back some of the low end torque you lose with a cam and the add'l overlap.
Are you set on that 112 lsa? A 228 cam is a small cam, not really worth bothering with imho (go big and get a real cam or don't bother, lol) but the 112 will make it unnecessarily lopey and harder to drive. A 114 lsa is better for street use. I'd get a bigger cam with wider lsa and you'll get more of what you are buying a cam for, with less of the drivability downsides.
I daily drove a g5x3 which is a large cam for 6 years in stop and go with no problems. The computer is fast enough to give good drivability with a good tune.
This Dyno sheet with all my mods overlaid might be interesting and useful for you to see how the mods compliment each other.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ast-heads.html
Couldn't agree more with others that I'd replace all valve springs. They are wear items and I'd replace every 20k miles.
If you do install heads get Cometic .040 gaskets, they will bump your compression to about 11.4 and give you back some of the low end torque you lose with a cam and the add'l overlap.
Are you set on that 112 lsa? A 228 cam is a small cam, not really worth bothering with imho (go big and get a real cam or don't bother, lol) but the 112 will make it unnecessarily lopey and harder to drive. A 114 lsa is better for street use. I'd get a bigger cam with wider lsa and you'll get more of what you are buying a cam for, with less of the drivability downsides.
I daily drove a g5x3 which is a large cam for 6 years in stop and go with no problems. The computer is fast enough to give good drivability with a good tune.
This Dyno sheet with all my mods overlaid might be interesting and useful for you to see how the mods compliment each other.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ast-heads.html
#19
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '14
Ported heads aren't going to do much as your ls2 intake is the bottleneck. A used FAST will do a lot more for you and is easier to install.
Couldn't agree more with others that I'd replace all valve springs. They are wear items and I'd replace every 20k miles.
If you do install heads get Cometic .040 gaskets, they will bump your compression to about 11.4 and give you back some of the low end torque you lose with a cam and the add'l overlap.
Are you set on that 112 lsa? A 228 cam is a small cam, not really worth bothering with imho (go big and get a real cam or don't bother, lol) but the 112 will make it unnecessarily lopey and harder to drive. A 114 lsa is better for street use. I'd get a bigger cam with wider lsa and you'll get more of what you are buying a cam for, with less of the drivability downsides.
I daily drove a g5x3 which is a large cam for 6 years in stop and go with no problems. The computer is fast enough to give good drivability with a good tune.
This Dyno sheet with all my mods overlaid might be interesting and useful for you to see how the mods compliment each other.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ast-heads.html
Couldn't agree more with others that I'd replace all valve springs. They are wear items and I'd replace every 20k miles.
If you do install heads get Cometic .040 gaskets, they will bump your compression to about 11.4 and give you back some of the low end torque you lose with a cam and the add'l overlap.
Are you set on that 112 lsa? A 228 cam is a small cam, not really worth bothering with imho (go big and get a real cam or don't bother, lol) but the 112 will make it unnecessarily lopey and harder to drive. A 114 lsa is better for street use. I'd get a bigger cam with wider lsa and you'll get more of what you are buying a cam for, with less of the drivability downsides.
I daily drove a g5x3 which is a large cam for 6 years in stop and go with no problems. The computer is fast enough to give good drivability with a good tune.
This Dyno sheet with all my mods overlaid might be interesting and useful for you to see how the mods compliment each other.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ast-heads.html
#20
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
I am getting ready to start buying parts for my cam install. I wanted to get some input. I am trying not to buy "unnecessary" parts. So I am going with a TSP 228R 112LSA (.588). My car is bone stock LS2 with 15k miles on it. I will be upgrading to ported heads.
1. Can i get by with stock springs?
2. Can I get by with stock lifters?
3. Timing chain?
4. Link to build thread with gaskets etc listed.
1. Can i get by with stock springs?
2. Can I get by with stock lifters?
3. Timing chain?
4. Link to build thread with gaskets etc listed.
2. Yes
3. I would do the C5R single row chain. We used to use OEM chains even in the race cars but started seeing chain failures around 2006 and moved to the C5R chain and haven't broken one yet.
4. www.ls1howto.com had a number of them. General rule as I think it was a C5 but would give you a pretty good idea.