Oil Catch Can
04-09-2015, 06:45 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Oil Catch Can
When I pulled the heads off I noticed quite a bit of oil in the intake track and intake ports. Decided I needed an oil catch can.
I looked at the commercial cans that were available and decided they were overpriced and under engineered. We build various cans for the race cars a lot, so decided I would make my own.
A friend of mine did the baffle and mount design. It swivels as well as adjusts up and down. Attaches to the passenger side cylinder head.
No steel wool to ingest, just well made baffles to cool and condense the oil.
Below are some pictures.
I looked at the commercial cans that were available and decided they were overpriced and under engineered. We build various cans for the race cars a lot, so decided I would make my own.
A friend of mine did the baffle and mount design. It swivels as well as adjusts up and down. Attaches to the passenger side cylinder head.
No steel wool to ingest, just well made baffles to cool and condense the oil.
Below are some pictures.
Last edited by Vito.A; 04-09-2015 at 06:58 PM.
04-10-2015, 12:05 PM
#3
Looks like a dry sump engine, so what are you using to to catch the clean side of the vent system off the tank?
The dirty side (out of the valley cover and into the intake manifold) works at less than WOT, while it the clean side that is venting at WOT instead (out of the valve covers, and into the intake in front of the TB vain instead).
Also, the SS wool/SS spiral shavings works great to temp change the vapors (cool them down/allow them to cling to) to draw the oil vapors out of the air very quickly. So your baffles work great to keep liquid oil from being drawn back in the intake out of the can once it has settled on the bottom of the can, but they will not help to cool the vapors down to draw the oil vapors out of the air before it hits the intake instead.
Bluntly, the valve covers and valley cover all have a baffle system in them to separate the fluid from the vapors, so the trick of a catch can, cool/cling the oil vapors to draw the oil vapors out of the air before the air hits the intake manifold.
The dirty side (out of the valley cover and into the intake manifold) works at less than WOT, while it the clean side that is venting at WOT instead (out of the valve covers, and into the intake in front of the TB vain instead).
Also, the SS wool/SS spiral shavings works great to temp change the vapors (cool them down/allow them to cling to) to draw the oil vapors out of the air very quickly. So your baffles work great to keep liquid oil from being drawn back in the intake out of the can once it has settled on the bottom of the can, but they will not help to cool the vapors down to draw the oil vapors out of the air before it hits the intake instead.
Bluntly, the valve covers and valley cover all have a baffle system in them to separate the fluid from the vapors, so the trick of a catch can, cool/cling the oil vapors to draw the oil vapors out of the air before the air hits the intake manifold.
Last edited by Dano523; 04-10-2015 at 12:13 PM.
04-10-2015, 06:22 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
About 12-14 hours on this first one. That includes the drawings, programming, and the machine work.
If we make more that time is significantly reduced.
On the race cars we use a 5-stage dry sump pump that is pulling some vacuum, and a Star Machine belt drive Vacuum pump that pulls from both valve covers and dumps into a puke tank.
If we make more that time is significantly reduced.
On the race cars we use a 5-stage dry sump pump that is pulling some vacuum, and a Star Machine belt drive Vacuum pump that pulls from both valve covers and dumps into a puke tank.
04-10-2015, 07:17 PM
#6
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NCM Sinkhole Donor
About 12-14 hours on this first one. That includes the drawings, programming, and the machine work.
If we make more that time is significantly reduced.
On the race cars we use a 5-stage dry sump pump that is pulling some vacuum, and a Star Machine belt drive Vacuum pump that pulls from both valve covers and dumps into a puke tank.
If we make more that time is significantly reduced.
On the race cars we use a 5-stage dry sump pump that is pulling some vacuum, and a Star Machine belt drive Vacuum pump that pulls from both valve covers and dumps into a puke tank.
